pitaSHO
Why do I do this to myself?
Up for sale is a black-on-black 1993 MTX. I bought it last August with the intent of restoring it, modding it, and keeping it forever, but I have since purchased a track prepped 91 Plus and can't keep all my cars (still have a gutted 89 and a wrecked 95 I want to fix again). It is a stripper model; no keyless, moonroof, passenger airbag, or power passenger seat. It has just over 197k on the ticker. I am countinuing to drive the car as my daily driver to help seat the ring in, so it will have more miles on it by the time of the sale.
Here is the history on the car since I have had it.
I bought the car with a supposedly bad motor. Long story short it ended up being a bad piston ring in cylinder 5. I pulled the motor apart, honed the cylinder wall, and replaced the piston. I re-used the rod, just to keep things as close to original as I could. The cylinder wall was not scratched at all. The parts I replaced:
Piston
Head gasket
Coolant crossover gaskets
All fresh O-rings on coolant tube between the water pump and back of engine
Injector seals
I also did a full front, top, and bottom 60k, which included
Water pump
Timing belt
Crank sensor
Crank seal (Ford)
Rear cam seal (Ford)
T-stat (Ford)
Lower radiator hose
Upper radiator hose
Temp sender
Oil pressure sender
Rod bearings
Valve lash adjustment
Spark plugs (Autolite Platinum)
Valve cover gaskets
New Autolite battery
Front cam chain tensioner (almost no wear)
The only thing I didn't replace were the wires. I had some good used aftermarket ones. I got cheap and ran out of money.
After replacing the piston I ran it for 100 miles and changed the oil with Valvoline 10W-40 and added a bottle of Auto-RX. I have since run it another 100 miles or so. The ring is still seating to the block, but the compression is getting better. It idles very smooth and does not burn any oil. The oil and coolant levels are stable.
The condition of the car is very good. The interior is almost mint. The driver's seat has almost no sign of wear and the dash is not cracked, but the EATC does have cracked buttons. The previous owner removed the stereo and I do not have one to replace it. The factory speakers are still there, but the factory amps have also been removed. The windows were at one time acquainted with tint, but the tint has been almost completely faded. The paint is in overall very good condition, and B being in the NW has saved it from any rust. The tires are almost brand new and the brakes have had recent work (I still have the receipts in the glovebox from the PO on the maintenance he had done). The slicers are near perfect with no curb rash on the wheels. The suspension feels original; worn, but not dangerous. It doesn't make any clunking sounds or anything, but it will probably need to be replaced at some point (kinda floats a little). Overall the car is pretty tight. There are a few minor blemishes on the exterior; I'm not advertising it as perfect, but they are very small.
The only thing I am aware of that doesn't work is the back left window. I'm not sure if it's a switch or the motor, but the window doesn't go down.
If you have any other questions, please let me know.
I'm asking $2300 obo.
Chris K.









Here is the history on the car since I have had it.
I bought the car with a supposedly bad motor. Long story short it ended up being a bad piston ring in cylinder 5. I pulled the motor apart, honed the cylinder wall, and replaced the piston. I re-used the rod, just to keep things as close to original as I could. The cylinder wall was not scratched at all. The parts I replaced:
Piston
Head gasket
Coolant crossover gaskets
All fresh O-rings on coolant tube between the water pump and back of engine
Injector seals
I also did a full front, top, and bottom 60k, which included
Water pump
Timing belt
Crank sensor
Crank seal (Ford)
Rear cam seal (Ford)
T-stat (Ford)
Lower radiator hose
Upper radiator hose
Temp sender
Oil pressure sender
Rod bearings
Valve lash adjustment
Spark plugs (Autolite Platinum)
Valve cover gaskets
New Autolite battery
Front cam chain tensioner (almost no wear)
The only thing I didn't replace were the wires. I had some good used aftermarket ones. I got cheap and ran out of money.
After replacing the piston I ran it for 100 miles and changed the oil with Valvoline 10W-40 and added a bottle of Auto-RX. I have since run it another 100 miles or so. The ring is still seating to the block, but the compression is getting better. It idles very smooth and does not burn any oil. The oil and coolant levels are stable.
The condition of the car is very good. The interior is almost mint. The driver's seat has almost no sign of wear and the dash is not cracked, but the EATC does have cracked buttons. The previous owner removed the stereo and I do not have one to replace it. The factory speakers are still there, but the factory amps have also been removed. The windows were at one time acquainted with tint, but the tint has been almost completely faded. The paint is in overall very good condition, and B being in the NW has saved it from any rust. The tires are almost brand new and the brakes have had recent work (I still have the receipts in the glovebox from the PO on the maintenance he had done). The slicers are near perfect with no curb rash on the wheels. The suspension feels original; worn, but not dangerous. It doesn't make any clunking sounds or anything, but it will probably need to be replaced at some point (kinda floats a little). Overall the car is pretty tight. There are a few minor blemishes on the exterior; I'm not advertising it as perfect, but they are very small.
The only thing I am aware of that doesn't work is the back left window. I'm not sure if it's a switch or the motor, but the window doesn't go down.
If you have any other questions, please let me know.
I'm asking $2300 obo.
Chris K.









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