1949 sho

[Falconvan]

Got motor mounts built today; not the prettiest things but it's solid and level. Once I grind a few crappy welds and throw some paint on them, they should be fine. For insulators I used the rubber biscuits that were the trans mounts for the flathead; worked out great. Tomorrow I'll build a crossmember for the trans and then the drivetrain will be self supporting.

 

[Falconvan]

Finished the crossmember and got it back on its feet tonight. Now I have to notch the oil pan for tie rod clearance, build some headers, and figure out how to mount the clutch cylinder.

 

[intimdatr]

The speed at which you are moving is insane! Keep it up brother!!

 

[Falconvan]

Just tackle one task at a time and they move along pretty quick. Good to see another Missouri guy on here.

 

[Falconvan]

This was much easier than I thought; one wedge cut and the steering clears fine. No internal interference as far as oil pump pickup or dipstick; all I have to do is find someone that welds aluminum to patch in the notch for me. On another + note; it's really clean inside and looks like it was well taken care of.

 

[rbruso]

Have you considered hosting your pictures at shospeed.com (or somewhere similar) and linking them in to the thread? I love the work you're doing, but the pictures are pretty small.

 

[Falconvan]

Have you considered hosting your pictures at shospeed.com (or somewhere similar) and linking them in to the thread? I love the work you're doing, but the pictures are pretty small.

Thanks! I'll have to look into that.

 

[Shovert]

Looks like a notch sort like I did but lot less severe. Pickup tube I think will need to be modified. I would wait on welding on pan. I think if your headers fit like mine you maybe able to add more capacity to pan by making it larger on side opposite the starter. That is my plans when I pull the motor to detail. Maurice
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w224/mgman75/93 mustang converiable/100_0990.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w224/mgman75/93 mustang converiable/100_1284.jpg

 

[Falconvan]

It's possible, I figure I lost about half a quart. I've got a buddy that runs Outlaw 10.5 class that's going to weld it up for me. I've also got header flanges and intake spacers being cut; should have those back in about a week.

 

[3d914]

Finished the crossmember and got it back on its feet tonight. Now I have to notch the oil pan for tie rod clearance, build some headers, and figure out how to mount the clutch cylinder.

This is the smallest I have seen a SHO motor look in a vehicle. That body must be huge! :wave:

 

[Falconvan]

Yeah, the old fat fendered rods have some bulk. Hard to believe the original motors were only rated at 89 HP. You sure werent getting anywhere fast. Also, thanks for putting the picture on ShoSpeed; that's pretty cool.

 

[Falconvan]

While Im waiting to get my header flanges back from the water jet guy I decided to address the fuel supply. Both the SHO tank and the Plymouth tank are the same depth so to simplify things Im just going to transplant the fuel pump from the SHO tank and fit it with the Plymouth sending unit. I'll also put this baffle from the SHO tank in the bottom. Today I took the SHO fuel filler with the overflow line and shorted it up so it will fit the Plymouth tank location; and I'll change the tank inlet to match the size.

 

[Shovert]

Awesome work. Maurice

 

[Falconvan]

Thanks, Maurice. By any chance do you know what you need to make the factory type plastic fuel lines with the quick disconnects? There's got to be some tool out there for it.

I got everything together and welded up today; just need to add the overflow tube and it's ready for a coat of paint.

 

[Shovert]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjlGJhZ8UqE
Maybe some help. I know can buy the fitting at local auto parts. Just make sure if use any flex hose line make sure it is rated for high pressure. Also make sure if replace the line in the gas tank it is rated to be submerged in gas. Other wise will swell and fail. I am sure there are other supplier part numbers. Maurice
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=5091&location_id=541

 

[1937 SHO]

I had the Detail Zone make me one of their Telvorek harnesses for mine. They modified their Mustang kit. They are associated with Ron Francis Wireworks. If you need my notes on the changes they need to make, I will send them to you. I used a manual computer with an AL4D transmission. I used a Cadillac vacuum switch to lock it up.

You will probably want to turn the intake manifold 180 degrees. It requires 1/4" spacers to raise it up for clearance and you will need to grind some things off the bottom of the intake.

I posted a thread on it. Search for 1937 SHO.

Good luck.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Yes you will need to grind off (and plug the resulting hole) the EGR casting on the bottom. You will also need to trim off the top of the Upper Timing cover and its backing plate. I sell the 1/8" and 1/2" phenolic intake spacers for just this purpose in case you need them. Search for "phenolic spacers" in the For Sale sections.

Tom

 

[Falconvan]

Great info, thanks! I do plan on turning the intake and have a water jet guy cutting me some 1/2" spacers now. 37, that would be great if you send me those notes; much appreciated! I'm either going with a stock computer and a Tweecer or a Megasquirt. I've been talking to both places but still haven't decided for sure.

 

[Shovert]

http://s177.photobucket.com/user/mgman75/library/93 mustang converiable?sort=6&page=4
Pictures of the intake ground off and top timing cover. I also ran my wiring thru the hole in top timing cover to the tps and the hoses. [Wanted no wiring laying on top of intake] Maurice

 

[Falconvan]

Nice job, Maurice. You're saving me a lot of steps.