802SHO 2010 Build

Tonight was a big one. Not all the way in the clear but getting there.

I flashed the transmission back to GUC, cleared the adaptive tables again, reflashed the tune I had already driven successfully, then disconnected both batteries, isolated everything, and did a full drain/reset before putting it all back together.

And the headline is this: The buzzing is gone.

That is the biggest development of the night. After all the noise, all the confusion, all the second-guessing, the thing that was driving me insane is now gone..again?

Then I backprobed Pin 15 and saw 12.04V KOEO and 14.22V running, so in the garage at least, Pin 15 is getting exactly what it should be getting. Battery voltage key on, charging voltage running. In other words, it is not dead, not asleep, and not sitting there starving for power like I originally thought.

Then the plot twisted again.

I went back to the spare BJB and realized I had been tracing the wrong fuse (heated mirrors) and the wrong relay?
I thought maybe I was powering Relay 53. I was powering Relay 52.

So instead of building some brilliant transmission rescue circuit, I accidentally built a starter interrupt / anti-theft switch like a complete psychopath. I was over here thinking I was outsmarting Ford logic, and meanwhile I had basically installed a homemade **** switch.

That also explains why it would not start with that path disabled, but once it was running I could shut that relay off and the engine kept running just fine. So that little science project got exposed for what it really was: not some magical transmission breakthrough, just me accidentally moonlighting in vehicle security.

The bigger point is this: The Gremlin witch hunt changed tonight. Hard.

The buzzing is gone. Pin 15 shows solid voltage in the bay. And the old theory that I was somehow saving the transmission by manually powering the “right” relay path just got punched in the mouth.

At this point, it is entirely possible the original problem had already been corrected, and what I was really fighting after that was Ford logic still hanging onto the failure until the right reset sequence finally forced it to let go. If that is the case, then my bypass did not save anything. It just happened to show up onstage at the same time the curtain dropped, and I gave it credit it may not have earned.

So tonight was not just progress. It was also discovery and more pieces to the puzzle exposed.

The buzzing is done. The relay path theory got flipped upside down.

And my “transmission fix” turned out to be part diagnostics, part accidental anti-theft package.

That is the kind of plot twist you cannot make up

Back feeding Relay 52 may have caused fuse 11 Relay 53’s 30amp fuse to get mad or something but next I’ll try to live check pin 15 under load

Now the truth is around the corner and diagnostics just stepped up a notch.

At this point the garage tests are simple. Verify Pins 8 and 9 connected and running so the return side is proven, not just the feed side. Then unplug C168 and run Ford’s TR sensor test on the transmission side: 8 to 4, 8 to 5, 8 to 6, and 8 to 7. If any are over 5 ohms, replace the TR sensor. If I’m replacing the transmission range sensor I’m going to just go ahead and swap in another new solenoid assembly and filter but reuse the brand new valvebody.

If that passes, start the car with the custom starter button, shut Relay 52 off, and remove the backfeed variable completely. Then the trans gets to stand on its own. If it behaves, great.

If not, the internal side gets the spotlight. And if it does come down to opening it back up, I’ll feel confident the OEM harness side is not the problem anymore.

Hamdrew has me blocked but he reads my comments through your quotes.

wow. That’s the g ayest thing I have seen on here yet!

Is it your job to qoute me so Hamdrew Dogballs can read my posts? Hahah o lawdy

DadMobile said:

Hamdrew has me blocked but he reads my comments through your quotes.

wow. That’s the g ayest thing I have seen on here yet!

Is it your job to qoute me so Hamdrew Dogballs can read my posts? Hahah o lawdy

Click to expand...

Did a three year old write this post?

Ford TRS test procedure. Ignition on, brake, gear select M, ignition off.

hold pin 8 check resistance to pin 4,5,6,7. If any show more than 5 ohms replace TRS.

Pin 7 registered 0.L. It’s completely dead.

I retested it over 20 times. It’s failed.

Time to replace it and throw a new solenoid assembly and filter (reuse the valvebody) and start with a clean slate.
This was with a mirror.

For context the TRS is original to the 2014 SHO transmission I bought from a salvage yard for the transmission build with 62k miles.

The transmission felt a beat off as I’ve described before. Taking gears higher than commanded rpm, lazy hanging low load shifts, low load delay to manual input. From not programmed to programmed. Some improvement, messy WOT multi gear shifts. Manual mode sometimes shows no gear and does not work with manual commands when it’s in limp mode.

All I can think of is it must have been on its way out from the get go. At the same time I had bad grounds and some old relays that were degrading the electrical system. At some point they both came to a head.

One theory is the buzzing was actually a protective strategy to do the opposite of low power, flood it with max line pressure to protect it and that was the buzzing.

Then a real FMEM latch, that once cleared let it fail all over again. Idk but what I know for sure is pin 7 is a wide open circuit confirmed over 20 times. Time to swap in new parts and try again.

Im thinking to myself like, I never wanted this role. I’m just a lone DIY mechanic that got dragged into electrical diagnostics, which was the one part of this build I wanted absolutely nothing to do with.

To me, that was the nightmare scenario.

I’d rather pull a transmission apart than chase voltage drop, relay logic, backfeeding, and Ford module behavior. But that’s where this went, so that’s where I went too. Not to sound corny but that’s what bravery is…I was scared to go down this path but I went anyway.

What I know now is I was fighting two problems at once.

One was real electrical noise. Grounds, relays, voltage weirdness, backfeeding Relay 52, all of it. That part was real and it made this whole thing look way worse and way dirtier than it should have.

But under that was a real internal fault too.

The TRS.

That part finally stopped being a theory. Pin 7 failed. O.L. over and over. Hard fail.

Did I waste six months? Well what better time than a winter layoff, so no. I didn’t waste six months. I cleaned up a real electrical mess I never wanted to be involved with, and in the middle of that I exposed a real internal transmission fault.

That’s why this thing felt impossible to diagnose. It wasn’t one ghost. It was two problems stacked on top of each other.

And honestly, after all of this, it feels damn good to finally have something real to put my hands on.

Replace the valve body too.


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Just got off the phone with Ford. Since it’s a 2014 transmission I’m buying a ‘14 range sensor. Should arrive Tuesday. Also a brand new solenoid and filter assembly (not the metal valvebody) is in stock and sold separately (don’t have to buy the valvebody).

Grand total is like $380. With loss of fluid and parts I’m under $500.

Tuesday I go buy it all. Back on my home turf, wrenching

Moved the car outside to replace a wheel bearing in Stefanie’s Jeep. That went surprisingly smooth. She complained about a noise. I took it for a test drive 2 days ago. I thought wheel bearing and then I second guessed and wondered about the front differential.

I listened for a change in the sound accelerating and decel and there wasn’t. Leaned back towards wheel bearing. I did some swerving and hard left the sound stopped for a second. Driver side front wheel bearing was my diagnosis. She bought one and I knew from my SHO years ago to just go ahead and cut a stud off and use a bolt and nut and press the bearing out. Worked like a charm. Brake caliper hung to the side, rotor off. Also I left the tie rod attached and loosened the lower control arm bolt, removed the upper control arm nut and sway bar end link, fished the axle out and no need for an alignment.

Took it for a spin and it’s fixed. So refreshing haha.

Moving my car outside was a moment of understanding. Like we formerly met for the first time lol. Starter relay turned off after it starts. No buzzing bc I did a hard reset. Knowing that a reset like that is an option. Understanding the buzz sound as max line pressure to the solenoids to protect it. Bad TRS. It all makes sense. And knowing has a satisfying effect.

I have a clear external gear select cable adjustment issue. I mentioned this a while back, M mode feeling like it didnt engage all the way. I just learned the correct Ford gear cable adjustment procedure bc it did not feel like it engaged completely in M when I did the ohm test. Supposed to go ignition on, brake and gear select into D. Key off.

Pop off the cable and manually cycle the lever clockwise (M) and one click counterclockwise back to D I’m assuming to verify it’s in D. Then release the locking tab and adjusts the length and pop it back on. I just tried quickly before going to work and I was able to engage M night and day difference better, but then I could not engage P. I redid it and then I could not engage M all the way but I had park. So I need to find the in-between setting….this makes it valid to retest for ohms with it fully seated in M.

It gets better.

Even if pin 7 comes to life now…and I half don’t think it will. I’m thinking I better get a 10-12 TRS sensor and here is why.

My software is 2010. The transmission itself doesn’t decide what to do with the TRS signals my PCM does. And the 13+ have sport mode not M (manual) and 13+ in Sport actually changes the transmission calibration with the 13+ ECU.

10-12 in M nothing dynamic happens we just get control.

So even if I retest and the TRS is ok…

Im pretty sure I should match up signals from a 10-12 TRS to my 2010 Software and strategy.

Ford didn’t supersede the old sensor to the 13+ they are separate part numbers while the actual gear select cable is the same part number.

So I’m getting the older TRS and interestingly the older one comes with a new wiring harness and lever stud + sensor whereas the 13+ is the sensor only and you reuse the harness and lever stud.

Bc the 13+ TRS sensor I believe is the only signal mismatch in my 2010. Even if it proves to be healthy with a new ohm test fully engaged in M…it still survives contact with a theory of an implausible signal mismatch creating shift logic confusion.

Glad I called Ford. The guy I talked to on Saturday was new and he had me down for VVT solenoids. And yeah the TCM is sold as a unit with the metal valvebody. With my small discount it’s more like $670 + $200 core. Interestingly Ford lists the other TRS as 10-19 but I’m curious if it’s more like 10-12 SHO and 13-19 SEL. Bc there is a 13-19 sensor only with different part number.

Im not taking chances. I can’t feel good about removing the solenoid/valvebody assembly and reusing it at this point so…it all gets replaced with the other listed TRS with harness.

Also David from Tinker Electronics sent me a full firmware update to include a Ford drop down menu. I should be testing that tonight.

Ok……

Now that the gear select cable was set properly for the very first time ………………..
……………………………………………
I have sold M and solid P. I then had to recheck ohms bc the procedure calls for M and key off, disconnect the connector and hold pin 8 and test pin 4, 5, 6, 7.

It passed! The gear select cable holds the key to the gate… these old emojis ..

Pin 4 0.3 ohms.
Pin 5 0.4 ohms.
Pin 5 0.4 ohms.
Pin 7 0.4 ohms.

Well shit the Solenoid/valvebody assembly and TRS aren’t going out without a fight. Ok they earned a road test. At the same time David sent got me going and it’s not quite done but I got gear, IAT 2, trans temp, knock b1 + b2 (values are off it doesn’t show negative yet) still working on OAR and WGDC and a couple others but I took it for a test drive.

2 laps and it shifts great, best so far…and I got on it a little and it didn’t go into limp mode.

These parts are in their bonus rounds bc I’m still going to buy the new TCM (solenoid/valvebody) assembly and TRS to have on deck.

It’s too early to tell if this was all just a few stupid little things all stacked on top of each other with the gear select cable on the verge..no loud buzzing when I went back home.

Gear select wasn’t registering yet but David sent me 4 revisions for the dash and we got it on the last try
That pick was snapshot of my taking a video gear select didnt work yet.

After when he got it working parked with the dash uninstalled.
I just don’t know what to say except I’m figuring this car out better than ever. I bet I need to throw the new hardware in soon but if it performs I’ll leave it in.

This is a moment of reflection.
Dropping this update with these shell pics because I think it helps explain what this car actually is.

I didn’t just bolt on a few parts and go make some pulls.

This thing spent years getting mocked up. Then it got torn back down to a shell. Then it got final assembled. So when I say this car had to be commissioned, sorted, and taught how to be itself, I mean exactly that.
Looking back, I can understand why a bunch of little things all stacked on top of each other. Painted over and insulated ground paths causing issues. A gear select cable that needed to be reset and indexed correctly. Loose EPS bolts. Loose rear subframe bolts. None of that sounds unrealistic now. Not after taking a car this far apart and bringing it back to life.

And that was only part of it.

This car has not just been driven for 700 miles. It has been sorted for 700 miles. Big difference.

Turbo oil return.
Primary O2 locations.
PCV VTA revisions.
VVT solenoid gasket nonsense.
Valve cover gasket issues.
Fuel sending unit false readings and running out of gas.
Frozen BOV piston
Wrong intake coolant gasket twice.
Around 6 oil changes.
One set of spark plugs.
One transmission drain and fill.
Three coolant drain and fills.
Correcting my FPR
And more…

That is not normal “I drove my car 700 miles” stuff. That is commissioning a custom build in real time.

And on top of all of that, I was still chasing hidden things stacked underneath making one problem look like ten.

Honestly the smartest thing I did was hold this car back when it didn’t feel right. In the middle of not knowing exactly what it needed, I stopped pushing it to run. I knew I had to help it walk before I had any business asking it to run.

That took an incredible amount of discipline but I also know what a very well dialed in setup is supposed to feel like.

Because now looking back, I’m honestly flabbergasted by how many little things were stacked on top of each other, and how wrong I was too but at the same time I’m more in tune with this car now than ever. In the middle of all of this, somewhere between the teardown, the sorting, the revisions, the diagnostics, and the restraint, I learned its language.

That’s what these pics really show.

Not just a build. A car that had to be commissioned. And right now it’s showing it’s ready. Only one way to find out.

STEK DynoSmoke PPF on the new headlights. Had to jump through hoops to get some because STEK doesn’t sell to normal consumers, only to their “certified” installers.

That word gets thrown around a little too casually, because “certified” doesn’t guarantee talent, it just means you’re in the network. We only sell B2B (Business to Business) ok here’s my IEN number, for my drywall business and here’s my statement from Meta showing my income for my Creator content @802SHO. Oh then they instantly say we don’t do B2B, only to their certified installer network. I’m like ok which is it? I had to buy some from a certified installer….so you can buy it but not directly from STEK. This is a rant but I understand why….its supposed to be quality control but it never will be. The industry self regulates high quality products from bad installations. If it’s a great product, sell it. That’s the reality. Always was, always will be.

Only got one done last night. I’m leaving the blinker clear and going with clear LEDs so it stays clean and doesn’t look overdone.

Edit: next morning. Wow, it looks like glass! I think it’ll look cool blacked out but clear blinkers.

Which actually helped me see Meta according to this owes me $818.63. I shared this screen shot and they have ghosted me so far. I started out with a basic question, then sent this lol what the heck. No clue why they appear to have not gone through and I certainly didn’t get the money deposited. Doesn’t seem like I’ll get it too unless they respond. I just sent a follow up email, Are you still there?

LOL. wtf.

Edit: So each failed attempt was also each new amount added so when it finally went through the total was $204. That tracks. It ain’t much but I’d still make content for free anyway, so even $1 is a bonus in the grand scheme of things

Now that I know the PID’s that I want are going to be available, it’s time for a custom screen layout for the Tinker Electronics V2 10” dash

Some ideas I got going. I think I need to keep editing
Edit From David. He can make my finished layout functional for the RPM sweep up top.

Omfg….this is it.

well, I took the car out again. No buzzing before I left. It did stutter second lap but it didn’t go into limp mode. It actually drove completely fine driving it like a normal car.

Took these picks and I can hear buzzing again
The drive back was fine. Never lost mobility. Acted like it nothing was wrong putting it back in the garage
So..the slight improvement has me hesitant to throw parts at it that are on the bench.

I’ll check for codes, replace fuse 11 for ***** and giggles. Check fluid level for ***** and giggles.

The thought has crossed my mind about clutch material clogging the filter or pump but bad pumps can whine….also if it was a fluid blockage it should heat up fast. It’s still not heating up fast at all. 70 degree trans temp I left with that’s heating up almost 20 from the garage. I was still under 100 degrees trans temp after 15 min of driving and idling.

I’ll try to diagnose it further and see if anything helps otherwise …it’s drain fluid time and take a fluid sample to send to BlackStone…and swap hardware.

But I shouldn’t have any more electrical codes and my fluid level should be good. That’s my goal…healthy codes, healthy fluid level…new 30amp big boy fuse 11 (PCM Relay fuse) and if it still glitches it’s time.

From can’t go half way down my street and every gear select is neutral….to driving it fairly reliably but load makes it unhappy. It can mean that what it’s went through with bad grounds and trying to push it some all weirded out may have hurt the solenoids or TRS….there is a difference between Good and Survived. It certainly has survived….good? Not looking like it.

Close to a solution. So many things fixed and the list is small…honest diagnostics with results that mean something. I’ll get it. It’s just been a matter of when…..

This season should be one for the record books. Plenty of time to replace anything needed. 90% sorted car now.