Replacing exhaust manifold studs

[dwarf]

So I just finished my rod bearings today and everything went relatively smooth, except the oil pan bolt I lost, but that wasn't a big deal and I went and got another.

There was one thing I was worried about from the start though. My passenger side rear y pipe nut was a flat 13mm. The other 3 where 15mm and where the kind that look like it has a washer built into it.\


Well when I bolted everything up, got my oil pressure, and finally started my car the first thing I realized was I have a huge exhaust leak. So I'm guessing the PO stripped the stud and then put another nut on it, because when I got to them they were extra rusty.

Im just wondering what the best way to remove the studs are? I have them soaking in PB blaster right now, and I figure if it isn't too silly hard to do I can do all of them.

It looks like there is a bolt with a 13mm nut welded onto it and that screws into the exhaust manifold? I tried to unscrew the stud/nut and was unable to do so, so Im going to let it continue soaking until I figure out how to replace them.

I hate that doing maintenance makes my sho no go

 

[snm95ls]

I would think that the following would work out well:

Oxy acetylene torch.
PB Blaster or some other penetrating oil.
Stud remover.

:laugh_ti:

Dunno man. They can be a huge pain to replace. I am thinking about replacing them on mine while it is still torn apart. It would be nice to get some stainless ones or at least grade 8.

 

[NebraskaSHO]

PB blaster 3 times a day spread over about a week.

 

[SHOZ123]

Best rust buster/penetrate is 50/50 acetone and ATX fluid.

 

[itwonder]

Tear a strip of cloth and wrap it securely all around the affected area. Saturate cloth with your favorite penetrating oil. Let it sit for a few days. The cloth will keep the area wet with penetrant.

If that does not get it loose, then you need to heat it cherry red with an acetylene torch, taking care not to torch the car too.

Worst case, remove the exhaust manifold and have a machine shop do it. To make sure I was getting quality replacements, I got them from Ford. They were not very expensive. Part number N811284-S101 is the stud, and N620482-S2 is the nut.

 

[dwarf]

Once I get them off and its time to replace new ones to I just screw the nut partially onto the stud and then try to screw it into the exhaust manifold? Or does it need to be welded to the stud?

 

[SHOZ123]

I would double nut the studs so you can get the nut(s) off without unscrewing the stud. IIRC the OEM exhaust manifold nuts aren't exactly robust?

Use some anti seize too.

 

[dwarf]

I dont know if Im going to be able to double nut it becuase its stripped.?

Aren't you supposed to screw another nut onto the stud and tighten it against the first nut, which is against the exhaust manifold.

Then hold the outside nut(you just screwed on) still, while you tighten the inside one?

How do you get studs out without double nutting? Vice gripes? or a stud remover

 

[93rev2sev]

Living in michigan has made me an expert at this procedure and it has taught me a lesson. You can spend 30 bucks for a stainless steel stud kit or you can buy some stainless m10 bolts and cut the heads off. either way, removing the manifold is a lot easier than it looks and almost eliminates the probability that you will drop shards of steel into your eyeball. After a while, that becomes somewhat uncomfortable.

 

[SHOZ123]

I dont know if Im going to be able to double nut it becuase its stripped.?

Aren't you supposed to screw another nut onto the stud and tighten it against the first nut, which is against the exhaust manifold.

Then hold the outside nut(you just screwed on) still, while you tighten the inside one?

How do you get studs out without double nutting? Vice gripes? or a stud remover

Sorry I thought you were talking about putting the new ones in. There is a stud extractor tool that will grip the stud with a cam like knurled jaw.

 

[jthod]

Living in michigan has made me an expert at this procedure and it has taught me a lesson. You can spend 30 bucks for a stainless steel stud kit or you can buy some stainless m10 bolts and cut the heads off. either way, removing the manifold is a lot easier than it looks and almost eliminates the probability that you will drop shards of steel into your eyeball. After a while, that becomes somewhat uncomfortable.

This is exactly what I've done twice, I broke one off of the '90, and rounded the nut on the '93, both while doing the rod bearings.

I decided to lay on back, drill and tap. Not fun, not comfortable, but drill bit $8, tap $10, and the tap wrench for $8. Plus then you don't have to remover the manifold, and possibly break more bolts.

 

[newby92]

rather than cutting the heads off of the m10 bolts to make studs, i just use them as bolts and bolt the y-pipe to the exhaust manifolts. i use neversieze on the bolts and have never had a problem getting them out at all. everytime i take the bolts out i buff them up really nice again and use another coat of neversieze. that stuff is like gold in a bottle for my car. never had a problem with bolds getting rusted, even in ohio.

if i recal correctly i had to clean up the threads on the manifold the first time i did this, but it went fast and smooth, never any problems.

 

[dwarf]

rather than cutting the heads off of the m10 bolts to make studs, i just use them as bolts and bolt the y-pipe to the exhaust manifolts. i use neversieze on the bolts and have never had a problem getting them out at all. everytime i take the bolts out i buff them up really nice again and use another coat of neversieze. that stuff is like gold in a bottle for my car. never had a problem with bolds getting rusted, even in ohio.

if i recal correctly i had to clean up the threads on the manifold the first time i did this, but it went fast and smooth, never any problems.

Wow i like the way you think. So just after I get my stud out, buy an m10 bolt and screw it from the y pipe into the exhaust manifold with anti-sieze and that will be enough?

All of my other studs are definately usable, I've cleaned the threads with a wire brush and gotten new nuts, its just this one that is stripped.

 

[dwarf]

I used the powerbuilt stud remover and i broke off a big chunk of the stud. Then I decided to try the 13mm again and it broke the rest of the stud leaving a tiny amount. So it looks like I may need to drill it out

 

[93rev2sev]

Remove the manifold.

USE
STAINLESS HARDWARE

Gosh, you woulda been done hours ago...

 

[dwarf]

Remove the manifold.

USE
STAINLESS HARDWARE

Gosh, you woulda been done hours ago...

Ugh I wish I would have listened now! After breaking the stud twice, I tried to drill the stud out and broke a bolt in the stud. Then I bought a torch and tried it with the reverse drill bit thats supposed to pull it out.

Now I realize I have to take my exhaust manifold off. What's the easiest way to do this?

I was using a socket on the lower heatshield nut. (For the rear manifold) And I got it halfway unscrewed before it rounded the bolt.

Once I try to give the sho some love it always wants more

 

[dwarf]

Is a propane torch not hot enough?

And whats the best way to remove the exhaust manifold heat shields nuts, and the rear manifold?

 

[dwarf]

Remove the manifold.

USE
STAINLESS HARDWARE

Gosh, you woulda been done hours ago...

Im having a hard time removing the manifold.

Whats the best way to do it?

 

[93rev2sev]

The rustiest, crustiest manifolds have given me no problems with taking the heatshield off. I can't imagine it being that bad. Once the heatshields are off, the manifold to head nuts should be pretty easy to get to...some from the top, some from below.

If you were able to move the heatshield bolts at all, shoot em with some Pblaster and work them back and forth a bit, unscrewing the bolt a little bit at a time...there's only about 4 threads, so don't give up.

 

[dwarf]

Alright sweet I finally got my manifold off. I was having a horrible time getting to the top heat shield bolts without removing the intake manifold.

Then I used a 6point wrench instead of the 12 socket and got the bottom bolt off.


Now I have one broke off stud and 1 intake stud. I have a bottle of propane but about to buy some MAPP.

Does anyone have a recommendation on bit/tap size for the studs?