Replacing exhaust manifold studs

[dwarf]

The rustiest, crustiest manifolds have given me no problems with taking the heatshield off. I can't imagine it being that bad. Once the heatshields are off, the manifold to head nuts should be pretty easy to get to...some from the top, some from below.

If you were able to move the heatshield bolts at all, shoot em with some Pblaster and work them back and forth a bit, unscrewing the bolt a little bit at a time...there's only about 4 threads, so don't give up.

alright i searched and found a thread you wrote about the stud removal.

you said to get 4 3/16 or 1/4, two 11/32, and a 10mmx1.50tap?

Im going to the store now to get this stuff

 

[dwarf]

Someone said not to tap and it to drill the broken bit out then try to use an EZ OUT.

Do you have any input on this suggestion? Or should I drill/tap the stud out

 

[shoon]

drill it out as large as you can without drilling into the threads. start with a small drill bit then go bigger, spray oil on it while u drill and apply good pressure and dont drill too fast.

If your drilling at the right speed with a good drill bit the metal should unravel and make a huge long strand.

Once drilled out, you can get a cheap bolt extractor kit. It looks like a tapered square bit with a notch in it. punch it in with a hammer and use vice grips and it should come out beautifully !

 

[jthod]

you can also get a left hand twist drill bit, get the area hot, hit it a few times with a center punch, then go at it with the bit. sometimes you can get it hot enough to unsieze, and come out with the drill bit.

 

[dwarf]

you can also get a left hand twist drill bit, get the area hot, hit it a few times with a center punch, then go at it with the bit. sometimes you can get it hot enough to unsieze, and come out with the drill bit.

i tried that using the reverse bit after using a propane torch and it didnt do anything.

 

[itwonder]

Propane torch is a waste of time on those studs. You have to use an oxy-acetylene torch and heat the exhaust ****** cherry red hot to do any good.

 

[jthod]

i tried that using the reverse bit after using a propane torch and it didnt do anything.

sorry, must have missed that.

 

[dwarf]

I drilled through the stud and tried the bolt extractor kit and it didn't work. So I drilled it larger and tried to tap it and my tap got halfway and broke.

 

[93rev2sev]

UGh...What a mess this has turned into. Sorry to hear you having so much trouble.

It might be time to buy a manifold. I'm sure you can post up in the "want to buy" section and you will get a bunch of responses.

Have you been able to get the broken tap out? If so, how big is the hole now? You can use a larger stud if you have lost all the original threads...like an m12 or 7/16(maybe too small).

Just make sure not to turn the tap more than about a quarter or a half turn before backing the tap out and re-oiling/cleaning the hole and the bit.

 

[dwarf]

yeah this did get silly pretty fast. Especially because the rod bearings where replaced easily.

I got it drilled out by my friend yesterday and was tapping it this morning and it broke.

I was thinking of either taking it to a machine shop or buying another manifold but I don't know whats the cheapest way to go.

There are some junkyards around here so maybe I can go snag one from there. But its going to be a pain removing it again.

Or just pay for shipping on one

 

[shoon]

Did you use one of those reverse spiral bolt extractors or one of the tapered square ones? personally I have had nothing but bad luck with the spiral ones... the square ones are the way to go.

 

[dwarf]

I used a spiral one..

But now I have the tap broken off in there. what should I do?

 

[SHOZ123]

They make tap removers. Page 2507 at www.mcmaster.com

 

[dwarf]

Went to a machine shop and he said 80 to get the tap out and thread out, and to clean the threads of the other hole