Crank Bolt is Evil - any suggestions?

[itwonder]

Nobody mentioned this, but you want to position the breaker bar a few inches above the frame so the starter can develop some torque before the bar comes into contact with the frame. I use a piece of 2x4 to protect the frame. Also, I think a ratchet works better than a breaker bar for the starter bump. The breaker bar handle will not stay exactly straight when it hits, losing some effectiveness. The ratchet handle will stay straight. I would put some heat right on the head of the bolt, not the crank, and then hit it with the starter bump.

 

[twr]

I use this



With 600 ft/lbs, I've yet to meet a Crank Bolt that I can't remove and not even break a sweat.

 

[Devin]

The only problem with that is that may cost a hundred or two, but the compressor that can keep up with it is $$$.

 

[oldyak]

that's why god created mechanics...
two months ago I had to replace timing gear behind idler pulley...
cost me a couple hundred and good piece of mind!
I understand being on a budget...but the thought of having a breaker bar smash into the firewall kinda makes doing it yourself sound dangerous..
I'm just as cheap as anyone else..but there are time when you get professional help!

 

[HotRodKid]

call chuck norris

 

[3PedalSHO]

call chuck norris

That is a good suggestion.

Unfortunatly, work got in the way of my car time, so I have not gotten back to it yet. Tomorrow is a club meeting after work, so it could be Thursday before I am back at it.

If there was a mechanic around here that had any clue what an SHO was, I might take it in.

As it stands, I don't know of any.

 

[3PedalSHO]

I use this



With 600 ft/lbs, I've yet to meet a Crank Bolt that I can't remove and not even break a sweat.

Well, that could be my problem. Mine is only 275 ft/lbs. I might need to upgrade.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Get the tires on the ground, and get a big peice of pipe like people have been saying. You might need to remove the hood to get a better shove on it, but with a 4 foot pipe, you *should be able the shear a 1" bolt in half, heat or not. Impacts don't always work, but torque always wins.


Let me put it this way.. when I took my SHO completely apart, I did it with a cheapo Chicago Pnuematics impact. Which really only came in handy with tie rod ends. But I took that entire car apart with sockets, a 1/2 driver, and a 4 foot peice of galvanized 1 1/2" pipe. Just use Craftsman stuff, so when you break it, you can get another one. And the 3/8" wont work for the crank, it'll just break...


Another thing.. from reading your first post again... that wood "protecting" the subframe is eating up a lot of that force. It needs to be a hard hit. Like an impact. That wood isn't helping if u ask me.


Good luck man... you just gotta get "fed up" with it, and mad, then grab that big pipe, and show it who's boss. At least you still got it in the car... you would be doomed if it was outside..