Fuel pump not priming and Dim CE light. UPDATE, POST 7.

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SHOspazz92

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I'm pretty sure its my CCRM but I just want to double check. I took my off my alternator to take it in for a rebuild and just make sure it was not only my alterantor making all the racket under the hood (Wich I am sure it is, As it sounds like a many rock tumbler when you turn the pulley) one last time I was going to start the car and let it idle for just a second. So, I hooked the battery back up, Turned the ignition and the engine temp needle shot up past H and the fan turned on. Turned the ignition off and tried again. No the car was cranking over but no bueno. All the other idiot lights were as bright as can be but the CE light was very Dim. I stopped cranking as I don't want to **** my battery but made sure the fuel pump was priming and of course its not.

From my understanding this is typical of a Failed CCRM, But like I said Im just looking for a second opinion.

-Sam
 
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hawkeye18

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You have a bad ground. The temp gauge shooting up to H is the dead giveaway. The exact same thing happened to me... when the ground cable at the starter got loose and lost contact. Also, the dim CE light is another classic bad ground scenario. Since the only thing you were messing with was the battery cables, check the ground wire to the computer from the negative post; as they age, they like to break inside and not be visible.

The temp gauge tells me that the engine (specifically the idiot coolant gauge) is not grounding to the battery. The idiot gauge is kind of the canary for this stuff as it grounds through the engine block, and a high resistance will show as high temp. So, if your engine is obviously not exploding in steam but the gauge says it is, then something's wrong with the ground path.

Check: Ground cable at starter lug - one or both bolts could have backed off.

ground cable at PCM, 1-wire connector on strut tower, and at battery neg. terminal. Make resistance measurements while wiggling to ensure resistance never gets above 1 ohm.

Ground cable at rear of intake (this will generally cause rough running but it'll still start)

Ground path of DIS.

Honestly, though, I'd be going over the negative terminal with a fine tooth comb, the likes of which haven't been seen since "Spaceballs". Something in there is hinky.
 

SHOspazz92

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You have a bad ground. The temp gauge shooting up to H is the dead giveaway. The exact same thing happened to me... when the ground cable at the starter got loose and lost contact. Also, the dim CE light is another classic bad ground scenario. Since the only thing you were messing with was the battery cables, check the ground wire to the computer from the negative post; as they age, they like to break inside and not be visible.

The temp gauge tells me that the engine (specifically the idiot coolant gauge) is not grounding to the battery. The idiot gauge is kind of the canary for this stuff as it grounds through the engine block, and a high resistance will show as high temp. So, if your engine is obviously not exploding in steam but the gauge says it is, then something's wrong with the ground path.

Check: Ground cable at starter lug - one or both bolts could have backed off.

ground cable at PCM, 1-wire connector on strut tower, and at battery neg. terminal. Make resistance measurements while wiggling to ensure resistance never gets above 1 ohm.

Ground cable at rear of intake (this will generally cause rough running but it'll still start)

Ground path of DIS.

Honestly, though, I'd be going over the negative terminal with a fine tooth comb, the likes of which haven't been seen since "Spaceballs". Something in there is hinky.


Well then its apparent to me that nothing is wrong then. You know why? Because I had the Terminals just kind of sitting there on the battery, They were loose enough to where I could just slip them off when I took the battery out (I'm keeping it out along with the tray until I put the alternator back in). I didnt even think of that. I didnt mess with it at all after this happend simply because I was going to wait until I had the new alternator so I can knock it out all at once. Thank you guy's very much.

-Sam
 

SHOspazz92

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Ok guys, I got the alternator back in and checked the Ground at the negative battery post like suggested (As that is all I was Messing with) and went to start the car. I made sure it was tight, And the ground was there. Yes, It is. I turned the key and listened for the fuel pump to Prime, No bueno. Also, Before I even tried to turn the car over the CE light was dim. I of course tried starting it and of course I have a dim CE light and the car will not star. The battery light is flashing as I try turning it over, I don't recall if it normally does that when you start the car anyways.

So, What are we looking at?

In all honesty, I'm conerned that somthing got fried. Why? Well, A few days a ago a gentleman in a Truck had his next to mine his battery died. I offered a Jump as I was there pulley some paperwork out of the car I needed anyways, I popped the hood and sat in the car as he hooked up the cables, I think he Initially hooked them on backwards. It was my mistake to assume he knew what he was doing like any normal peson. The only reason I assumed this is because right away he got out and re-clamped the wires.


So, I don't know where to start. The car is stuck in a parking lot and I don't have a car. Somone give me some direction.

-Sam
 

SASHO91

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Jump back to what I said Sam. Check the ground for the EEC by the battery, and check to see if it has B+ @ the yellow(big yellow wire) wire at the EEC. IIRC it's pin numero uno.

Also, IIRC, isn't there a power lead that runs off the B+ post on the GenII's that sends power to the EEC? That wire is also yellow(the same wire as above, pin 1). It should be right behind the passenger headlight or around that area. I know the GenI has this setup.
 

itwonder

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Replace both battery cables, and also verify the ground strap from the right rear intake manifold support to the body is in place.
 

SHOspazz92

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Woot!!!!! Got it running!

I double checked the grounds at the battery cable, Made sure the Intertia switch was not tripped for whatever reason, Did this, Did that. Nothing! As I was sitting in the car with the key to on I noticed my radio was not on. It just simply was not working. At this point I figured that there had to be a blown fuse somewhere. So, I checked the fuse box under the hood and none of the 60A, 30, 50, or 40A Fuses were blown. Maybe it was those little 10A Fuses.....?

Sure enough, I pulled out the "ACCY FEED/ALIM ACESS" Fuse and it was blown. So, I switched it with the IGN COIL/BOBINE ALL 10A Fuse and instantly the CE light was as bright as can be, The fuel pump primed and she fired right up!

The radio still does not work, So I assume there are a few more fuses that need to be replaced and the ABS light is on (I assume thats because of the lack of the "IGN COIL/BOBINE ALL" Fuse. But, She runs. Thank god!

I think at one point or another when I was taking out the battery the postive battery cable might have hit the negative battery terminal, As I always take the Postive off first, Or somthing stupid like that. However, I still think that ******* that I jumped crossed the jumper cables when I gave him a Jump, Either way I got it running. (**** has frozen over)

Thank you guy's so much for your help.

Also, Does anyone have the part number to for the A/C - ALT Accesory belt? I got a Duralast one today from Advanced and it was to small, So I'm threw the old one on there until I can get the new one. Thanks!

-Sam
 
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