still lookin for help with these codes *video added*

[ThatShoGuy]

now were to look and how to figure out what needs fixed... and just for you that dont know i did just put this motor in...

first code is

p0412
the PCM has determined that a malfunction exists in the electrical circuit for switching valve "A" of the secondary air injection system..

and

p0174
the PCM has determined that during testing, the fudl system for bank 2 was too lean.(bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder #1 while bank 2 identifies the cylinders on the opposite bank)

and p0443

the PCM has determined that a malfunction exists in the electrical circuit for the purge control valve in the evaporative emission control system..

and

p1518

intake manifold runer control (imrc) stuck open

well i do have the imrc tied open is this why i get this code?
these are what i got from the guys at auto zone..
lookin for help with this prob?? i have reset the computer since when i pulled it part i had the cable off.... so i dont have the ses on but it runs bad still watch the vid!!!!!
guys you save me tons of cash

 

[ThatShoGuy]

well i do have a miss so i have takin the intake crap off... i tested all my front coils by unplugin them and see if the idle changed they all made it change so im gonna atleast switch fronts to back.. and i wanna pull the plugs because i know they are dirty.... im gonna clean them up and regap um... put it back togethers and see how it runs...

 

[ThatShoGuy]

well cleaned the plugs gapped them and changed the coils around still got my wierd idle miss.. i think i have a fuel pump on its way out.. because if i let the pump build pressure b4 i start it, it will run fine for a sec or 2 then if i just run it shut it off then start it right up again..

or im leakin pressure off some how.. idk

 

[ThatShoGuy]

well im still lookin for help i got a vid of how its running to bad i have a crappy cam.....

to hard to make out how the car its self is running but you can see how the rpm gauge is movin up and down and all.. along with a consitint miss...

car also seem bogish between idle and 4krpms after that it feels nice and powerfull..

heres a vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=385R..._id=385R65O9EbU&next=/my_videos2?pi=0&ps=20&s

this is a NOS short block, rebuilt cam failed heads, welded cams ,heads have about 4k on them short block is now seen 200miles i can really feel this miss when the TQ is locked up in od the whole car shutters... and its pretty agervating!!!!

thanks for any help????

 

[kit352]

did you check the new front coils again by unplugging them to see if it missed. how did the plugs look? the ones on mine that are on bad coils always look different.

 

[ThatShoGuy]

did you check the new front coils again by unplugging them to see if it missed. how did the plugs look? the ones on mine that are on bad coils always look different.

they all were a tad whitish color? and i did check them again.... cleaned them up on a bench grinder with a wire wheel and then burned them over a stove flame they aint old at all and i forgot to add if it could help.. the car ran fine till the like yesterday.......

never fails sho just cant run good for me every time it put it back togethers.....

 

[ThatShoGuy]

well im gonna run to the local pick and pull today and get me the fuel pump, fuel rail, and injectors. switch mine out today or tomorrow..i dont think i mentioned i was havin a fuel pump prob last time i had it goin last spring but i had hard wired it and worked just fine... then the car sat about another year.. maybe thats all it took to **** it.. seems as if the motor isnt getting enought fuel(bogs) and it says bank 2 is lean.. and i been thinkin aint bank 2 on the return side of the rail? if so wouldnt it be the first to go lean if there is low pressure???

 

[shoclown]

i can send you the diagnossis chart if you need it.

 

[ThatShoGuy]

i can send you the diagnossis chart if you need it.

anything is better then nothing all i have is what you see.. i coudnt get the fuel pump out of the yard car because the tank was gone.....

i did manage to get..

the whole thing with the vac lines and wires goin to it behind the intake...

8 injectors looked brand new but my dirty hands got them dirty...
8coils 4 looked brand new
bunch of nuts and bolts i was missing...
i did want the fuel rail its self but i forgot my tools to remove it but i did get the pressure regulator..
so im gonna change that out..


the 4 black coils were in the rear should i assume thos are newer since its like a set of 4 of them... and my sho has all white ones along with this one having 4 white topped in the front????

also wanted to add i been drivin the car put a good 30 miles on it and the SES hasnt been back on yet??? still runs like crap...

:thankyou:again

 

[SHOZ123]

Have you checked the fuel pressure? Should be ~35 lbs when idling, +40 with the vacuum line unplugged.

 

[ThatShoGuy]

Have you checked the fuel pressure? Should be ~35 lbs when idling, +40 with the vacuum line unplugged.

yes about 38 idle and 40+ up to like 2k-3krpm.

today i took some injectors that came out of a 98 sho in the yard they looked brand new dont know if they were but the car had 116k, and put them in mine i was thinking maybe its injector related

well its still doin the same thing whats my chances of tho injectors causing the same crap...

also i got 8 coils out that car, 4 were black topped and 4 were white topped all looked brand new. anyways i put all of them in my car the blacks were in the rear of that car so i figured they were newer, so i put those in the rear.

and i changed out the fpr befor i check pressure(had one layin around)

also that crap behind the intake plenum the thing with the vac lines and plugs goin to it, i had got a used one of thos of that 98 sho when i installed that it seemed to run better for like 2 miles..

now while im drivin the car... i feel the power loss while rpm climbs and some times bogish take off's... now one thing this is a NOS short block has about 250 miles on it.. heads have about 4k on a rebuild.. now i did reset the tps sensor i put it at .997 and the idle seems to be a bit better but it still shutters quite a bit when drvin and the t/c is locked in OD you can feel the motor **** and the car feel like you har on a ruff road when it jerks.. also again the trans has about 6k on its rebuild with a new t/c doute thats a prob..

any help now would be great
i am lost now have no clue were to look now got good fuel pressure got tps i beleave good coils whats my chances of them doin the exact same crap... wires under the rear intake look good i didnt open them but i had looked at them befor last time it ran.

so idk what to do besides shoot it

 

[SHOZ123]

Did you check the valve clearance?

 

[ThatShoGuy]

Did you check the valve clearance?

hmm.. i didnt change anything since it ran last spring and it ran good then... so..

but ether way idk how..

but i do think the alt might be starting to freeze up could that cause a shutter or would it just make the belt slip???

 

[SHOZ123]

I though this was a new block?

 

[ThatShoGuy]

I though this was a new block?

new short block heads are from the last motor that had got cam failed and had them redone up put them on another used short block motor took a crap.
got nos block of ebay and installed with thos heads that have about 4k on them...which was done up once thats how they got there miles..

 

[SHOZ123]

If you put the heads on the block you need to check the valve clearance. I guarantee they are off. Mine were down to some scary low clearances.....

Not hard to check the clearances. You just need a good set of feeler gages.

Take the valve covers off and rotate the engine so the valve you are checking is pointing at least 90 degrees from straight down.

specs are .......

valve clearance intake (cold): 0.15-0.25 mm (0.006-0.010 inch)
valve clearance exhaust (cold): 0.25-0.35 mm (0.010-0.014 inch)

 

[ThatShoGuy]

If you put the heads on the block you need to check the valve clearance. I guarantee they are off. Mine were down to some scary low clearances.....

Not hard to check the clearances. You just need a good set of feeler gages.

Take the valve covers off and rotate the engine so the valve you are checking is pointing at least 90 degrees from straight down.

specs are .......

valve clearance intake (cold): 0.15-0.25 mm (0.006-0.010 inch)
valve clearance exhaust (cold): 0.25-0.35 mm (0.010-0.014 inch)

first off even tho these heads are rebuilt and did ran fine last spring on the car still think it could be off??
what if they are off??? ill check them out today.. any other ideas?

 

[Mr Anonymous]

first off even tho these heads are rebuilt and did ran fine last spring on the car still think it could be off??
what if they are off??? ill check them out today.. any other ideas?

Because anytime you re-torque aluminum heads to the block, and then replace the cams, the valve clearances will change.

As to the rest of your problems, step 1 clean your MAF, step 2 if the P0174 comes back replace the front unstream O2 sensor. The IMRC code you'll have to live with until you either replace the actuator or buy a tuner. The other codes sound like you missed a couple connectors putting everything back together.

Oh, and you will always have a slightly rough idle when the secondary butterflies are wired open.

 

[ThatShoGuy]

Because anytime you re-torque aluminum heads to the block, and then replace the cams, the valve clearances will change.

As to the rest of your problems, step 1 clean your MAF, step 2 if the P0174 comes back replace the front unstream O2 sensor. The IMRC code you'll have to live with until you either replace the actuator or buy a tuner. The other codes sound like you missed a couple connectors putting everything back together.

Oh, and you will always have a slightly rough idle when the secondary butterflies are wired open.

thanks for your replay on that head deal!!!

got my cyclinder 6 miss fire today maybe thats my prob.. and then another code (didnt get the damn number of it) but the guy at the parts store said mostlikly its a lose gas cap.... somthing to do with the evac stuff or somthing..

well the car runs 100times better with a good coil in #6 omost as smooth as butter......... still shakes a little at idle (bad front mount) and the idle will go up and down mayeb 100rpms not alot tho.... i can deal with how it runs now compaired to b4...ive done alot of work just to find out its a coil gezz.....
thanks for all help