rod bearings after 45k miles???

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SuperHO

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K....I did rod bearings on my car about 45k ago, and i'll be damned if I didn't hear that horrid, horrid rattle coming from my engine at light load around 3500rpms. what the **** is going on? Shouldn't they last a little longer than this? And with my clutch/TOB on the fritz, any chance that it could be something else?
 

jthod

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Mine does the same thing, but at lower RPMS. Does that make it that much worse? I also have a suffering TOB, How do you distinguish the noises?
 

gas it

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K....I did rod bearings on my car about 45k ago, and i'll be damned if I didn't hear that horrid, horrid rattle coming from my engine at light load around 3500rpms. what the **** is going on? Shouldn't they last a little longer than this? And with my clutch/TOB on the fritz, any chance that it could be something else?

Could it be the cats coming apart? Or it might be the TOB.
 

ScottyDsntKno

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Hmmm I have a very light rattling sound that comes from mine at lower rpms under a load but then it goes away. Please tell me this isn't the rod bearings going. The car runs really great and the noise is intermittant(well before I effed up my trans lol).

If it is the rod bearings can I just change them out and be good to go?
 

gas it

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Hmmm I have a very light rattling sound that comes from mine at lower rpms under a load but then it goes away. Please tell me this isn't the rod bearings going. The car runs really great and the noise is intermittant(well before I effed up my trans lol).

If it is the rod bearings can I just change them out and be good to go?

Could be the heat shields on the cats coming loose and rattling. If you have the stock y-pipe they break the welds on the shields and it rattles at certain rpm. You can check them by getting under there and hitting the shields with your fist.

If it's bad rod bearings you can change them as long as the rod journals are not scratched or scored. If you rub your fingernail on the journal it should not catch on anything.
 

AREA 91

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Timing belt tensioner
loose cat shields
rod bearings
wrist pin (un-likley)
 

somedude_001

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cats are easy to check. jack the car up and wack them with some good force and see if they rattle.

rod bearings are less than 70 bucks and only take about 6 hours to do your first time. if you hasve a doubt then CHANGE THEM. At 45K they should not be bad unless somehting came loose. check the cats.

if it is the TOB doesn't the noise go away when you puh the clutch lightly?
 

dohcsable

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well, it should except for when the car won't disengage the clutch.....lol

my 95 hasn't let me do anything other than start in gear, and it just started releasing again yesterday. It doesn't make any noise. At 45k, it very well could be the rod bearings, but idk for sure

Andrew
 

1993MTXSHO

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Just change the bearings if you check everything else and think it might be bearing related, Iv owned 3 shos 1 was a parts car so i never drove it and the other 2 blew the engines because of rod bearings, one had no signs of it really, (low oil pressure light a few miles before the bearings ate my crank) the other did start to knock.
 

Lorenr

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Rod Bearings

It is very odd for rod bearings to go bad at 45,000 miles.

If they go bad it is because of a lack of lubrication or poor installation.

Always:

Check the old bearings for proper size, wear and condition. The finger nail test is a good one.
Use a really good torque wrench. Do not over torque your rod bolts or they may be ruined. If the bolts stretch improperly you will have problems.
Do not switch caps. This is very bad. (One time I pulled town a motor that had a cap on backwards. The guy spun it to 6000+ RPM but complained of low oil pressure.) Motor held together and just required a new rod and cap.
Use the correct oil.

If you use good assembly technique it is unlikely that you will have bearing problems.
 

SuperHO

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The plot thickens...



Did an oil change today, just cuz I was due. Decided "what the ****?" and ripped my filter apart to see if there were any shavings in it...lo, it was clean. Black, but no sediment or shavings or anything like that. So I go poking around in the used oil to see what I could find. nothing. Nothing at all that looked out of the ordinary. The knock's still there, clutch in or clutch out, but the only time I get an oil pressure light is if I let revs drop below about 650rpm after the car's warmed up a bit...which is normal.

Cats are gutted and the heat shields fell off years ago, so it's not that. It's definitely something that's related to revs and load. timing chain tensioner again? The front head's got a new one, but I didn't replace the rear head...
 

AREA 91

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My guess is the timing belt tensioner. Pull your accessory belts and upper timing cover off. Check the tension of the timing belt. Start the engine and see if the noise is still there.
 

SuperHO

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fortunately, I don't have an upper timing belt cover. My cam gears are just sittin there, smilin up at everyone.
 

shovermont

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Did an oil change today, just cuz I was due. Decided "what the ****?" and ripped my filter apart to see if there were any shavings in it...lo, it was clean. Black, but no sediment or shavings or anything like that. So I go poking around in the used oil to see what I could find. nothing. Nothing at all that looked out of the ordinary. The knock's still there, clutch in or clutch out, but the only time I get an oil pressure light is if I let revs drop below about 650rpm after the car's warmed up a bit...which is normal.

why does your car drop to 650 rpms... i have had my taurus since july and never once have i seen the motor drop below 1000 rpms, idles like its brand new. smooth as a whistle. do you use synthetic oil? or good ol fashion dinosaur bone 5 doubleya. and if your clutch is sticking i would think something other then TOB. maybe master cylinder, slave or air in the line. just some ideas to work with.
 

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