ABS Non-Functional *Scratches Head*

[dantheman68]

I pulled my ABS codes today, the light was enough for the last month to finally pull codes out. The light is intermittent, but always comes on... that is it comes on, but varies in how quickly it turns on while driving. It used to be 100% functional, and now i have these codes:

32- Open or short circuit @ RH front sensor, wire harness.

35- Open or short circuit-LH front sensor, wire harness, damaged teeth on front brake anti-lock sensor indicator, sensor air gap too small/large.

36- Open or short circuit-RH front sensor, wire harness, damaged teeth on front brake anti-lock sensor indicator, sensor air gap too small/large.

37- Open or short circuit-LH rear sensor, wire harness, damaged teeth on front brake anti-lock sensor indicator, sensor air gap too small/large.

38- Open or short circuit-RH rear sensor, wire harness, damaged teeth on front brake anti-lock sensor indicator, sensor air gap too small/large.

61- Short circuit to ground HCU FLS or wire harness.


This seems to point my problem in code 61 or code 32... right now im giong to take the right wheel off, and have a look at the sensor and check some resistances, since that is the easiest, but im just looking for any other ideas anyone else has...

 

[hawkeye18]

sounds like the ABS controller went on the fritz. Or... when's the last time you checked the big connector on the controller? It might have come loose somehow... either that or the wire bundle going to the controller got cut and shorted to ground. Either way, if you don't have a multimeter/test light, I'd invest in a good one and get to chasin'!!

 

[dantheman68]

i found that the front right wheel sensor has been "fixed" it appears that the wire was severed at one point, and someone repaired it, im assuming that the wires were shorting out inside the tape/connector mess, i took it apart to see what was up... and it was quite a mess... i tried repairing it, but im thinking i should just replace it, especially since i tried getting the sensor off the knuckle and ended up breaking it and im assuming that mess was causing code number 32... but if i fix that, will any of the other codes clear up? the wire bundle looks good, and i reconnected it, but where is the relay for it, is it the one that is right next to the control box, i thought of replacing that too, since it should be a cheap fix... im thinkint that the sensor was shorting out and messing with the signal for all the other wheels, since it indicated a short... i guess ill start by replaceing the front right sensor...


anyone know where i can buy a RH front wheel sensor... i doubt it will be cheap

 

[hawkeye18]

that sounds like a plan. The ABS system is kind of touchy and can throw unrelated codes a lot. ABS ring sensors are famous for being absolutely impossible to remove without total destruction. Basically, the only way you're getting it out is to drill it. Maybe torch it. I'm serious. Good luck with that...

 

[dantheman68]

that sounds like a plan. The ABS system is kind of touchy and can throw unrelated codes a lot. ABS ring sensors are famous for being absolutely impossible to remove without total destruction. Basically, the only way you're getting it out is to drill it. Maybe torch it. I'm serious. Good luck with that...

i got it off... you had it about right :laugh_ti: torch and grinder... i was trying to be super carefull to not destroy the ring on the CV shaft too

 

[dantheman68]

just an update... the wheel sensor was the culprit, thanks to sho parts northwest to getting me a good used one!

 

[SHOZ123]

In the future it is easy to see if the senor and ring are working using a voltmeter. Pull the ABS connector off and connect the voltmeter to the sensor wires you want to check.

With the voltmeter on AC voltage spin the hub, easier to do with no caliper rotor and wheel. You should get a smooth AC voltage that will rise with the speed of the hub.

The front sensors will put out a significantly higher voltage than the rear. But the two from the front and the two rear sensors should be near to the same values when spun at nearly the same speed.