Replaced Batt Cables, Car wont start!!!

[keny_kimmel]

I'll be as informative as possible so I can get help ASAP.

The solenoid had burned out, then even after I replaced that solendoid the cables were a little loose, the ones from the battery. Sometimes it would stutter when starting or not start at all untill you tried it 2 or 3 times all you got was an audible click. NOW, I replaced the cables and still had the old solenoid in and this time I noticed that the cables got loose again. This was after the car would refuse to start and I would hit the solenoid with a hammer. Well tonight I had to have the car towed.

There is a slight audible click when you go to crank it but the car doesnt even attempt to start. Could I have burned it out from the loose connection and repeated beatings with a hammer?

I need help ASAP I work at 2pm PST and have to walk to the part store tomorrow at 8 when they open.

 

[Phoenix]

Are the poles on the solenoid loose?

Is the batt still @ full charge?

 

[keny_kimmel]

battery at full charge, 12.6 volts. solenoid tightened, all I get is a single *click*. not even a multiple tick, just one single click.

 

[Phoenix]

battery at full charge, 12.6 volts. solenoid tightened, all I get is a single *click*. not even a multiple tick, just one single click.

My powerstroke did the exact same thing , they replaced the whole starter. So I'm not sure if it was the solenoid acting up or the starter that was seized.
...

 

[Off Road SHO]

First, 12.6 is not a fully charged battery.

Second, sounds like something is loose somewhere or you putthe new battery cable on the wrong side of the solenoid.

Tom

 

[projectSHO89]

First, 12.6 is not a fully charged battery.

...

Sure it is. That's the standard output voltage of a 12 volt automotive battery with no load on it.


What is important is what the battery voltage is doing when the starter tries to engage. If the output voltage sags too much due to a bad internal connection or other failure, the starter cannot operate.

Likewise, if the starter pulls too much current, the batter voltage will sag dramatically (and usually something will start smokin').

Steve

 

[keny_kimmel]

Ok, I pulled the starter this morning and when tested for workability from the solenoid when jumped to the ign. it worked just fine. Second, starter grounded and spun fine when circuit complete. The car started once, then I shut it off and didnt start again. I found out that the brushes inside the motor are bad and/or there is a dead spot in it. I just decided to get a new starter since everything read ok, battery, solenoid, ignition switch.


I have a feeling that prolonged exposure to poor conductivity and high resistance was the cause of death to this starter, plus the whacking of the hammer.

I learned real quick that this car has a love-hate relationship with me. I hate tearing into it, and I hate missing out on driving it. Tomorrow when it's all put back together she gets a bath and then I'm getting on the freeway hammer-down