CircleTrack SHO

[platoribs]

Video Rawx

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Well the SHOShop sold a 29mm adjustable sway bar so if you want adjsutable find one of those. To make a stock one adjustbale you would need to cut it and put a threaded section inbetween with adjustbility.

As far as adjustable endlinks, you can set the sway bar to nuetral and then from there make adjustments to favor the circle track. There is an article here: Article

We sell them here: SHOBros

For the rear you can get eccentric bushings or control arms.

For the front you might want to try adjustable strut mounts maybe?

I like the Gen3 bushings.

 

[midnightauto]

A few thing's I have learned is to not change too much at one time and get the car scaled to find out where you are before making changes that could hurt the handling. I have not had time to read the rules but I raced Michigan dirt tracks with claimers so if it is a low buck fix go with adjustable sway bars to adjust the weight. it is not as good a proper spring rate's but does cost less. A adjustable brake valve to turn down the brake pressure on the right side of the car will help set the car for the turn. most circle track races are short so don't go with the large brake set-up it will not be worth the added rotating weight for the benefit you will get. I raced a mustang that went 1900lbs and had a 2.3 4 popper and would qualify just as fast as the v8 bomber and sportsman's class. and remember this rule: it's your job to cheat and it's the tech inspectors job to catch you.

asphalt is for driving to the track dirt is for racing!

 

[NJSHO]

Read:
www.shotimes.com

 

[CircleTrackSHO]

and remember this rule: it's your job to cheat and it's the tech inspectors job to catch you.

asphalt is for driving to the track dirt is for racing!

Midnight.. Rule #1 is bang on.

but Dirt is for the parking lot.. pavement is for racing !

 

[somedude_001]

don't go with the large brake set-up it will not be worth the added rotating weight for the benefit you will get.

i gust went to measure my cobra calapers to see if they could be fitted to your stock 10.5" brakes and they can't be. you can get them on 11.6's but your not making enough power to need the larger rotor. I believe the mustang GT (NOT cobra) duel piston calaper will bolt up to the SHO. i'm not sure if they are alum like the cobra's though. the cobra calapers are about half the weight of the factory calaper. I wonder if you could use the GT bracket with the cobra calaper so that you get the bigger pistons.

what about using the sarc struts from a gen3? i'm 90% sure the rears will bolt up and i don't see why you can't get the fronts in there if you use the 3rd gen swaybar link. they are by far the best factory strut but are not cheap.

sorry i don't have a writeup on the TC lockup switch because i've never been able to find what triggers lockup. I know what wire controlls it but I don't know if it needs power or ground. + I stripped a gear so i don't have a car to play with anymore.

any trans temp gauge will come with a diagram and they are super easy to hook up. I would reccomend getting a gauge before a bigger cooler. i'm kind of curious how good the stock cooler works. just make sure it is still in place. the cooler is about 18X4X2~ it is pretty big.

 

[Shoaz]

i gust went to measure my cobra calapers to see if they could be fitted to your stock 10.5" brakes and they can't be. you can get them on 11.6's but your not making enough power to need the larger rotor. I believe the mustang GT (NOT cobra) duel piston calaper will bolt up to the SHO. i'm not sure if they are alum like the cobra's though. the cobra calapers are about half the weight of the factory calaper. I wonder if you could use the GT bracket with the cobra calaper so that you get the bigger pistons.

I wouldn't do that. He's potentially braking hard twice every lap, on short laps, and there's going to be a ton of heat going into the brakes. Those GT calipers don't hold up well at all to heat...they tend to spread out like a flower blossoming. Except it ain't pretty when a brake caliper does it during a race.

 

[somedude_001]

well he could always downgrade to the 89-93 setup to try and lighten it up more. his car is so light he might be able to get away with it.

 

[drivinhard]

Not necessarily...that may be too much bar depending on what's on the front and how the rest of the car is set up. Going from zero bar to 26mm is going to be, well, exciting.

yeah dog!

drive it like a sprinter lift just enough to rotate it in, then stand on it again. Corner grip will be most excellent with the no front bar/big rear bar combo. you can't hardly spin out a nose heavy SHO, short of just dumping the throttle hard mid corner. it'll wag, but it's hard to get one to come all the way around.

If indeed your just way to loose getting into the corner, I'd still stick with no front bar, and size down the rear.

You may sacrifice a bit of speed getting down into the corner with it set up like that, but you've been on roundy rounds enough to know it's your exit speed that matters, and how early you can pick up the throttle (the smaller the bar here, or no bar, the better). basically I'd just run the smallest (or no) front bar that you can that allows you no or the smallest amount of wheel spin from the center (or before the center) of the corner off. get that right, jack in your neg camber for more sheer mid corner grip, the tweak on getting down into the corner hard (there's your rear bar fiddling).

I got to do a few ovals with my 89 and it's fun. The biggest one I did was fairly small (about ~100 mph getting down into the corners) but my car was set up for turning right and left. I corded my RF in just a few short laps trying to chase (catch) a BMW

 

[CircleTrackSHO]

yeah dog!

drive it like a sprinter lift just enough to rotate it in, then stand on it again. Corner grip will be most excellent with the no front bar/big rear bar combo. you can't hardly spin out a nose heavy SHO, short of just dumping the throttle hard mid corner. it'll wag, but it's hard to get one to come all the way around.

Yea baby.. that's what I'm talkin about right there. Its nearly impossible to loop a FWD car on a banked track.. if the back end starts to come around, just stand on the gas and pull the ass back in. A push is death in FWD circle track.. you can't get into the corner, can't hold your line through the corner, can't get on gas... it just sucks, I'd take 10x loose over 1x tight anyday of the week. Remember were talking about cars here not.. nevermind

 

[Shoaz]

yeah dog!

drive it like a sprinter lift just enough to rotate it in, then stand on it again. Corner grip will be most excellent with the no front bar/big rear bar combo. you can't hardly spin out a nose heavy SHO, short of just dumping the throttle hard mid corner. it'll wag, but it's hard to get one to come all the way around.

If indeed your just way to loose getting into the corner, I'd still stick with no front bar, and size down the rear.

x2 on all that (although I have looped a SHO...on cold tires).

I'm guessing no front bar and a 23mm rear would be nice (and probably still plenty loose), but depending on the rest of the setup and the driving style I could also see the no bar/light bar and the 26mm working.

With an adjustable end link on the rear you could preload the heck out of the rear bar and get some setup adjustment that way, too.

 

[Geek SHO]

I'm excited to hear that there's a SHO on the track. I would love to race a SHO at our local dirt track, but they only run V8 RWDs, and they have a class with 4 cylinders of FWD or RWD (VW Rabbits and Pintos, etc). There was nowhere for a SHO to fit.

That video is so sweet! I love how you run away from that New Yorker in each straight. I can't wait to see another video once you get a rear sway bar.

I think when he said "Sneaky Pete", he was referring to the concealable nitrous system. From the looks of that power output, Patrick might be getting accused of that already!

I spun my SHO at Thunderhill (at the '04 SHO con), but I had sticky race rubber on my front tires, with street tires on the back, and I was braking in the turn. :-D

 

[CircleTrackSHO]

That video is so sweet! I love how you run away from that New Yorker in each straight. I can't wait to see another video once you get a rear sway bar.

Just 4 more days.. I'm going to run it Friday Night at the 1/4 track and Saturday Night at the 3/8th mile.. i hope to come back with 4 checkered flags !!

I spun my SHO at Thunderhill (at the '04 SHO con), but I had sticky race rubber on my front tires, with street tires on the back, and I was braking in the turn. :-D

I didn't say you couldn't loop it on the road track.. basically flat and going left and right.. but on a circle track.. it'd be really tough.

 

[FuzzyFish]

Reconnecting the rear sway bar, will absolutely transform the car, and is easily the best thing you can do at this point. As well as everything else.

Also running worn struts up front, and newer ones if back (If you can't have aftermarket) will also help loosen the car up quite a bit more when I was auto-crossing my 89. Though given the circumstances it would probably make it way too loose for circle track usage, depending how worn the fronts are.

 

[midnightauto]

I will warn you right now be prepared for the crowd to boo you if you do clean house. I cleaned house 3 weeks in a row and the crowd turned ugly. It could also be I was a out of towner. on the 4 week I got a visit from the tech inspector he made me install a muffler and weld my screw jack's so they could not be adjusted and add 200lbs. that was his mistake week 5 I lapped the second place car. by the way in MT Pleasant if you turn down the claimer you loose your points and get put in the next class up for 2 weeks. I had 3 car's attempt to claim on week 5 the next two weeks I got a few dents the v8 guys do not have a sense of humor when a 4 banger get fast time. I won 1 race those 2 weeks the four car dash after that never finished a sigle race. It's a good thing mustang sheet metel was cheap. as soon as I figure out how to get a pic to show in full size I will put one up of the car

what size tires are you running? a smaller tire on the left rear will help loosen the car in the corners.

 

[CircleTrackSHO]

Bring your car to Springport and stop playing the in the dirt.. didn't your father tell you that sand boxes were for kids.

 

[St Louis SHO]

Originally Posted by midnightauto
and remember this rule: it's your job to cheat and it's the tech inspectors job to catch you.

asphalt is for driving to the track dirt is for racing!

1. Dirt is for farming.
2. Asphalt is for getting to the racetrack
3. Concrete is for racing.
4. We don't drive around in circles looking for the finish line.

---------------------
1. Gasoline is for cleaning parts
2. Alcohol is for drinking
3. Nitromethane is for racing.

* DISCLAIMER : (no pun/insult intended here just some funny stuff to read)

James

 

[midnightauto]

Nitromethane? sounds like a straight liner.

Straight line racing is like bowling with the kiddy bumpers


Once you go dirt you never go back

 

[midnightauto]

I would bring it out and play but I quit racing 3 years ago. The only thing I can tell you is my bank account got alot bigger.

 

[BTMendenhall]

I didnt read the infinite pages (2) of posts, but one thing about srpings:
The Eibach Pro Kit lowers the front 1', and the rear 1/2". Im not suggesting buying the Eibach kit, but its interesting that its 1/2" less in the back. After the kit is installed, the thing has a rake to it. If you set the rear ride height higher in the back, it helps the car to oversteer instead of plowing. Also, if you're running stock 60% tires, than you need a soft spring otherwise its going to crush the tire and never even get to the spring. Tires are springs too. So, maybe the way to go is a stiffer swaybar setup and a soft spring combination. This will help the car to stay level, but not smash the tire.