PAracer
Active Member
About the subframe. When the old, stock subframe bushings wear out, the subframe will shift and cause issues for your alignment. If you were to make a set of aluminum subframe bushing with offset holes, you can shift the subframe to the passenger side to gain camber.
Have you enlarged the holes in the top of the front strut towers yet. This allows for slightly more camber adjustment. When you get to the point that the mounts rub the inside of the tower, you can either pound the sheet metal back for clearance, or stack a couple fender washers under the strut mount. There's also a company that sells adjustable tension rods to gain a little more castor. It is considered a stock replacement part, too.
This is really the problem with racing production cars. You have to search for ways of getting more camber/caster.
BTW, the Koni struts for the SHO are actually inserts that are installed in a stock housing. There is no tell from under the car. On top of the strut's rod, though, is the adjuster key. This is not easily hidden.
Ground Control offers a coilover kit that adds a threaded collar to the strut body. They also use standard spring sizes that are offered in various lengths and rates. You can go crazy and have the inspectors laugh in your face if you wanted. Anything you install should be aged and painted to look like the original. I guess a monoball conversion is out of the question.
A TwEECer is like the Diablo chip, but you can modify the programming at home on a computer. This would be great for you since you can tell the car to hold second gear for the entire track.
Honestly, your biggest gains will be finding a rear sway bar. A 22-23mm bar would be perfect. From there, you can alter the effective lever arm by adjusting the angle that the link acts on the bar. Your tire and wheel combo will also be critical. Finding a wider wheel will help reduce sidewall flex, while a shaved down and soaked tread will maximize available grip. The alignment will then be addressed to provide that final 10%.
I think you've found one of the best platforms out there for this kind of racing.
You've got a huge power advantage over everyone else, and once you have the handling sorted out, ooooohh boy!
Have you enlarged the holes in the top of the front strut towers yet. This allows for slightly more camber adjustment. When you get to the point that the mounts rub the inside of the tower, you can either pound the sheet metal back for clearance, or stack a couple fender washers under the strut mount. There's also a company that sells adjustable tension rods to gain a little more castor. It is considered a stock replacement part, too.
This is really the problem with racing production cars. You have to search for ways of getting more camber/caster.
BTW, the Koni struts for the SHO are actually inserts that are installed in a stock housing. There is no tell from under the car. On top of the strut's rod, though, is the adjuster key. This is not easily hidden.
Ground Control offers a coilover kit that adds a threaded collar to the strut body. They also use standard spring sizes that are offered in various lengths and rates. You can go crazy and have the inspectors laugh in your face if you wanted. Anything you install should be aged and painted to look like the original. I guess a monoball conversion is out of the question.
A TwEECer is like the Diablo chip, but you can modify the programming at home on a computer. This would be great for you since you can tell the car to hold second gear for the entire track.
Honestly, your biggest gains will be finding a rear sway bar. A 22-23mm bar would be perfect. From there, you can alter the effective lever arm by adjusting the angle that the link acts on the bar. Your tire and wheel combo will also be critical. Finding a wider wheel will help reduce sidewall flex, while a shaved down and soaked tread will maximize available grip. The alignment will then be addressed to provide that final 10%.
I think you've found one of the best platforms out there for this kind of racing.