2013 SHO Owner - Love my car and will never part with it. Car has got 145,000 miles.

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kryptto

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By the way, the plugs gap measured .042" on all 6 plugs, after 146,000 miles with just a small amount of carbon build up on the edges of the plugs. Incredibly consistent wear for so many miles. They were iridium. New plugs went in at .031"
That's fine for stock, good news on the plugs, GDI runs them clean but eats the tips and expands the gap. Iridium is the only to use. Sounds like they were changed is my guess.
 

BradM

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The parts canon has failed you (it never works for me either). Do some research on GDI engines, intake build-up, and rough idle. You have 146k miles on your GDI engine with no apparent intake cleaning.
 

CharlieB

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That's fine for stock, good news on the plugs, GDI runs them clean but eats the tips and expands the gap. Iridium is the only to use. Sounds like they were changed is my guess.
I purchased the car new in 2013 and have been the only owner. I think I was just one of the lucky ones because I've never changed them in 11 1/2 years.
 

kryptto

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The parts canon has failed you (it never works for me either). Do some research on GDI engines, intake build-up, and rough idle. You have 146k miles on your GDI engine with no apparent intake cleaning.
I have a post here will my 27k miles build up search on my posts.
 

Zpak

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If the root of the problem was carbon build up on your valves your RPM’s would certainly fluctuate at idle not just under load. If you’re not getting any misfire or bank efficiency codes, unfortunately it’s beginning to sound more like the torque converter.

Though, with that milage I also wonder if plugged cats could be involved.

At this point I’d go with Texas Marauder’s advice and see if you get any change.
 

CharlieB

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If the root of the problem was carbon build up on your valves your RPM’s would certainly fluctuate at idle not just under load. If you’re not getting any misfire or bank efficiency codes, unfortunately it’s beginning to sound more like the torque converter.

Though, with that milage I also wonder if plugged cats could be involved.

At this point I’d go with Texas Marauder’s advice and see if you get any change.
Due to an upcoming ski Trip soon and a lack of diagnostic tools I have it at the shop as we speak. I've greatly appreciated all the tips. Hopefully soon I'll find out which tip was the right one. I'll pass it along as soon as I know.
 

CharlieB

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Due to an upcoming ski Trip soon and a lack of diagnostic tools I have it at the shop as we speak. I've greatly appreciated all the tips. Hopefully soon I'll find out which tip was the right one. I'll pass it along as soon as I know.
Texas Marauder and Zpak, you guys nailed it. It's the torque converter. $8,000 later because Ford is strongly recommending changing the transmission as well. To only do the torque converter is less on parts cost by higher on labor. It would save some money but with the 146,000 on it, it might make sense to do both. Especially with the cutch particles contaminating the transmission. I am going to try the Shutter Fixx first, and if that works, which the Ford mechanic has seen it work before and is recommending I try it, I'll save up for the transmission for later. You guys have been great, Thanks again for your help.
 

CharlieB

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Sorry for the bad news but at least you got to the bottom of it.
I discussed trying the shudder fix with the Ford tech. He was all for it. He said they can't use it at the dealership but has seen it used successfully several times. He said I should drain the tranny fluid, don't flush it, just refill it and add the Shudder Fix. Do you think I should use 1 2 oz tube or 2?. I have read alot about the function of the torque converter. Being an aircraft technician and having traveled the country teaching jet engine flame propagation etc., I found it so interesting that the turbine that's in the converter is propelled by the same air flow dynamics as a jet engine, but using fluid instead of air. And that the friction coefficient of the fluid is so critical to spinning up the turbine. The Shudder Fixx increases that friction coefficient to prevent the slippage between the stator and the turbine. Do you know if the SHO'S have a TCC (Torque Converter Clutch). I can't imagine that with the power Ford is trying to extract out of the engine, that they wouldn't have gone with a TCC.
Thanks again Zpac for your help with this diagnosis. The Ford tech didn't bring up the Shudder Fixx and I wouldn't have known about without your guys help. I'll let you know if it's successful.
 

Texas Marauder

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Yes, there is a torque converter clutch. That is what causes the shudder. Just drain and fill 5 quarts of Mercon LV and add 1 tube of shudder fixx. If there is no or some improvement add another tube.
 

CharlieB

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Yes, there is a torque converter clutch. That is what causes the shudder. Just drain and fill 5 quarts of Mercon LV and add 1 tube of shudder fixx. If there is no or some improvement add another tube.
Thanks, I'll report on the results in a few days, if Christmas doesn't get in the way.
 

Zpak

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I know all too well. The converter in my first ‘14 SHO started acting up around 35K and finally got bad enough that I learned how to replicate it for a Ford tech right at 60k.
 

CharlieB

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I know all too well. The converter in my first ‘14 SHO started acting up around 35K and finally got bad enough that I learned how to replicate it for a Ford tech right at 60k.
We're you successful at eliminating the shudder or did you have to replace the TC or the tranny alltogether?
 

CharlieB

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Ford replaced the torque converter under warrantee.
Nice, wish I had that option. Wish I had been more familiar with shudder before now. I'm reading that more people are recommending changing the transaxle fluid around 30,000 miles. Is the best way to fill the reservoir thru the vent line, which sounds difficult to get to?
 

Texas Marauder

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Nice, wish I had that option. Wish I had been more familiar with shudder before now. I'm reading that more people are recommending changing the transaxle fluid around 30,000 miles. Is the best way to fill the reservoir thru the vent line, which sounds difficult to get to?
I think you are confusing the transmission with the PTU. Transmission is filled thru the fill/dipstick tube, under the air filter housing. PTU may be filled thru the vent tube.

You must remove the air filter housing to access the dipstick.
 

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