Race of the daily drivers upcoming

[Not4speed]

Got a group of about 18 of us in my car club’s public page that will be doing races of the daily’s. It’s more for fun than anything else.

It’s gonna be held at a local 1/8th mile track.

My 2017 SHO has muffler delete, Diablo tune(had it laying around the garage) removed the hood/bumper weather stripping, and I will be picking up a used Airraid intake for cheap. Car will be on the stock 20’s and full weight.

Any other quick easy mods I can do that I’m missing without gutting the car?

Those that have raced their SHO what do you launch at?

 

[SM105K]

Damn this looks like fun.

DO NOT PUT THAT CANNED TUNE INTO YOUR CAR!!!!!!! TAKE IT OUT ASAP. Esp with the summer heat now. It would be a shame to melt a piston. Get a proper tune. Either AJP or Gearhead.

Also do not put that Airraid Intake on your car. You are stock turbo, just put in a K&N drop in filter. The factory intake system is already cold air, and it is ram air as well. Also it flows more air then the stock turbos can handle.

For launching first things first.......is your car a PP or non PP? If it is a PP hold the traction control button until it says "advance trac off". If it isnt a PP turn your traction control off in the drivers menu. Second.... air down my front tires to 26 psi. I found this to be the sweet spot of traction if you have a decent set of tires on the car. Next, launch RPM is between 2200 and 2400 while brake boosting/torque braking the car. Go out and try it. However if you hold the brake boost/torque braking too long, it will cut power to the car and it will fall on its face.

Just gotta find the sweet spot.

Also read the first couple of pots in this thread. It will answer quite a few questions you probably have.

SM105K's SHO BIBLE/BUILDS/LIFE

First things first. Thank you @SHOdded for helping me with the information below. His knowledge and experience with this platform is immense. What to expect: Post one: General knowledge of the SHO and what to expect. Post two: The Story of M, my SHO. I posted all of my mods, current mods...

shoforum.com

 

[Not4speed]

Thanks for the response.

I’m curious what’s bad about the Diablo tune? Like what setting specifically in the Diablo tune makes it melt pistons? It has three different tunes that can be set 87, 91, and a 93. It’s set on a 93 tune. Last I checked there was no KR in the 90+ degree temps, but I didnt check timing and fuel trims. I can also adjust timing and a few other things as needed with the Diablo tuner. So I’ll have to double check and adjust according.

Car is non PP. Used Airraid intake is $75 which is like $15 more than a K&N. Still not worth it?

I’ll go play around with launching and stick to the RPM recommendation and see where the sweet spot is.

 

[SM105K]

Thanks for the response.

I’m curious what’s bad about the Diablo tune? Like what setting specifically in the Diablo tune makes it melt pistons? It has three different tunes that can be set 87, 91, and a 93. It’s set on a 93 tune. Last I checked there was no KR in the 90+ degree temps, but I didnt check timing and fuel trims. I can also adjust timing and a few other things as needed with the Diablo tuner. So I’ll have to double check and adjust according.

Car is non PP. Used Airraid intake is $75 which is like $15 more than a K&N. Still not worth it?

I’ll go play around with launching and stick to the RPM recommendation and see where the sweet spot is.

There isn't a direct can tune for the SHO platform. That tuner is for a general 3.5 ecoboost application. Although same motor each generation is different as is climate. Hotter air, more timing, ect....not my cup of tea. I would 100% be monitoring knock. I would also want to see what exactly that canned tune has done to the fuel trims.

The Airraid isn't a sealed box and will draw hot air from the engine. You will lose power. The stock box is sealed, ram air, and flows more than the turbos can use.

 

[Zpak]

Get your launch down and even in stock form you should be able to beat on some worthy cars in the 1/8.

While I agree with SM105K on everything here, in a non PP I found trouble in leaving at any more than 2000 rpm. By 2400 if you don’t hook, which you won’t, you’ll be welcomed with limp mode.

Also, I didn’t really test it much before an e30 tune but I actually found better launches with traction on. Could be a non PP thing.

 

[kryptto]

DO NOT PUT THAT CANNED TUNE INTO YOUR CAR!!!!!!! TAKE IT OUT ASAP. Esp with the summer heat now. It would be a shame to melt a piston. Get a proper tune. Either AJP or Gearhead.

read my stories about my diablo tune..... transmission anyone in 11K miles on a brand new car, took less than 3K to burn it out.

 

[Not4speed]

Picked up a SCT tuner and will be in contact with GH about their AO tune for the car.

For the 170 degree thermostats any difference between the ones all the shops sell?

Gearheads has theirs listed for $79

Reische 170* Thermostat - Gearhead Sales

reische thermostat ecoboost ford upgrade

www.ghtuning.com

While 5 star tuning has theirs listed for $49

2010-2016 3.5L EB Explorer Sport ,Flex and Taurus SHO 170° Thermostat RAT-3D - 5 Star Tuning

The RAT Stat 3D fits the following vehicles:

5startuning.com

Ortiz has theirs for $49 as well.

RAT STAT 170* Thermostat 2010+ Transverse 3.5L Ecoboost

The Rat Stat 170 degree thermostat will help keep those hot coolant temperatures in check. Fits Taurus SHO / Explorer / Lincoln MKS / Lincoln MKT / Ford Flex with 3.5L Ecoboost engine Does Not Fit the Ecoboost F150.

www.ortizperformance.com

Has anyone run any of these?

I’m coming from the LS world and thermostats were all the same.

 

[kryptto]

I run Reisch as long as it works and is accurate will help keep the temps down. NO real performance increases, other than keeping things a bit cooler in hotter temps. If you are going with GH AO tune just bundle it all

 

[Zpak]

Congrats on taking the leap! You will wonder what took you so long.

As for thermostats, while keeping them fresh and in good working is order is important they have zero benefit to performance. I know the cooler opening point is a contentious debate but I’m in the gimmick camp.

What’s not a gimmick and actually necessary when getting tuned (increasing boost) is cooler plugs to prevent pre detonation and the 3 bar MAP to read said newly found boost.

You originally asked for quick and easy mods to improve the car for your track day, my number two favorite mod only to the initial tune are Tony’s trans mounts. They eliminate wheel hop on launches and drastically improve the sloppy 1-2 shift. Install might take a half hour if you include getting the car in the air.

 

[Not4speed]

@Zpak im kinda in the same boat as you as far as the t-stat goes and just assumed for tunes colder plugs (gapped .028-.029) and an upgraded MAP is what was needed. I just keep reading again and again people doing a 170 degree. I thought a 180 degree was stock, I didn’t think 10 degrees would make that big of a difference, but then again I’m new to this generation SHO. **** my twin turbo C5Z made 600ish whp and it was running the stock 190 degree thermostat.

When I bought the intake I believe a 2.5 MAP came with it. I assume a 2.5 bar will be fine? I’m under the impression the 2.5 bar will read up to 22 PSI. Which is more than the efficiency of the stock turbos?

Pic of said MAP that I received.

 

[Zpak]

Yes, 2.5 bar will suffice.

 

[kryptto]

@Zpak im kinda in the same boat as you as far as the t-stat goes and just assumed for tunes colder plugs (gapped .028-.029) and an upgraded MAP is what was needed. I just keep reading again and again people doing a 170 degree. I thought a 180 degree was stock, I didn’t think 10 degrees would make that big of a difference, but then again I’m new to this generation SHO. **** my twin turbo C5Z made 600ish whp and it was running the stock 190 degree thermostat.

When I bought the intake I believe a 2.5 MAP came with it. I assume a 2.5 bar will be fine? I’m under the impression the 2.5 bar will read up to 22 PSI. Which is more than the efficiency of the stock turbos?

Pic of said MAP that I received.

I will say this - live in Florida - before my tstat I was running temps in 190's+

The 170 brings me closer to 180's in my logs.

What does it mean? Look do it or not many here will say don't bother.

 

[SM105K]

@Zpak im kinda in the same boat as you as far as the t-stat goes and just assumed for tunes colder plugs (gapped .028-.029) and an upgraded MAP is what was needed. I just keep reading again and again people doing a 170 degree. I thought a 180 degree was stock, I didn’t think 10 degrees would make that big of a difference, but then again I’m new to this generation SHO. **** my twin turbo C5Z made 600ish whp and it was running the stock 190 degree thermostat.

When I bought the intake I believe a 2.5 MAP came with it. I assume a 2.5 bar will be fine? I’m under the impression the 2.5 bar will read up to 22 PSI. Which is more than the efficiency of the stock turbos?

Pic of said MAP that I received.

Yeah is platform is completely different than the LS platform. I made the jump from a couple of twin turbo Camaro's in June of 19. One was a APS car, and one was an LME car. Can't say that I miss them though. Lived in the twin turbo v6 era for awhile, but I am heading back to the twin turbo v8 life but in a Mercedes.

I am on the t-stat is a gimmick train as well. I also replaced mine with a stock oem ford.

The best bang for the buck on these cars is a good E30 tune and Tony's trans mounts as Zpak said. Most understated mod IMO is a good set of tires. I ran a 1.77 sixty foot on a pair of Continental Extreme Contact DWS 06, full weight, with a quarter tank of fuel.

My tenure with the 4/5 Gen SHO is over for the minute, however stupidly I am entertaining getting a 3rd gen.

 

[Not4speed]

Well a little update for anyone who cares:

Spark plugs checked/gapped and installed.
I don’t know which I hate doing more the rear plugs on this car or the rear plugs on the several GTP’s I have owned in the past. Regardless, after many choice words and an hour later it was a success. It’s not so much the plugs, it’s the freaking coil plug wires. There’s so much vacuum/suction on them it reminded me of my first BJ.

Anyways installed the 2.5 bar MAP and
GH tune. Drove around to get it up to operating temp and then did a pull. I was like that’s it? It feels stock or even worse than stock. So I did another pull and I could hear the car just dumping boost. Hmm that’s not right. Pulled over, popped the hood, and noticed I forgot to plug the front wastegate sensor back in after doing the plugs.

Did another pull and we are back in business But wait what’s that? Datalog is showing 3.5* of knock at WOT. Hmmm.

Contacted GH and they asked about the plugs and what they were gapped at. Gapped at exactly what you guys told me to gap them at when I called prior to ordering the tune. So we are good.

Next thing, I was told to check the wires at the knock sensor for chaffing. No problem, checked and it’s apparent someone either fixed this already or Ford resolved the issue on the 2017’s cause no chaffing.

Regardless, they have been shrink wrapped, put electrical tape around both ends and I have zip tied them away from the block. So off to make another WOT run and datalog. Hope that fixed the issue.

 

[kryptto]

Well a little update for anyone who cares:

Spark plugs checked/gapped and installed.
I don’t know which I hate doing more the rear plugs on this car or the rear plugs on the several GTP’s I have owned in the past. Regardless, after many choice words and an hour later it was a success. It’s not so much the plugs, it’s the freaking coil plug wires. There’s so much vacuum/suction on them it reminded me of my first BJ.

Anyways installed the 2.5 bar MAP and
GH tune. Drove around to get it up to operating temp and then did a pull. I was like that’s it? It feels stock or even worse than stock. So I did another pull and I could hear the car just dumping boost. Hmm that’s not right. Pulled over, popped the hood, and noticed I forgot to plug the front wastegate sensor back in after doing the plugs.

Did another pull and we are back in business But wait what’s that? Datalog is showing 3.5* of knock at WOT. Hmmm.

Contacted GH and they asked about the plugs and what they were gapped at. Gapped at exactly what you guys told me to gap them at when I called prior to ordering the tune. So we are good.

Next thing, I was told to check the wires at the knock sensor for chaffing. No problem, checked and it’s apparent someone either fixed this already or Ford resolved the issue on the 2017’s cause no chaffing.

Regardless, they have been shrink wrapped, put electrical tape around both ends and I have zip tied them away from the block. So off to make another WOT run and datalog. Hope that fixed the issue.

Thanks for the update, we all learn when people share.

 

[Not4speed]

Just logged again. Highest KR was 4.75*, granted it’s hotter than balls outside in Texas, but still seems rather high to me. Gonna send the datalog over to GH and have them look it over.

 

[Zpak]

Yeah that’s horrible knock. Seems par for an initial GH tune. Get him your logs for a revision. I’m 99% sure he’ll blame your gas and suggest adding a gallon or two of e85.

 

[Not4speed]

Yeah that’s horrible knock. Seems par for an initial GH tune. Get him your logs for a revision. I’m 99% sure he’ll blame your gas and suggest adding a gallon or two of e85.

So many members on this forum and the Facebook group recommend GH for SHO tuning. Yet GH will just suggest a different gas or to do an E30 blend to mask the problem? Why do so many people recommend GH again?

 

[Zpak]

Matt gets the job done but you have to stay on him for revisions. I think GH is a good foot in the door for a tune but I’m all AJPTurbo.

 

[SM105K]

I always recommend AJP (Brad) over GH everyday of the week. The only problem with AJP is getting in contact with him. I personally never did, but that has been a general consensus.