What are the differences between a 2011 engine and a 2017 engine In regards to an engine swap? I have a 2011 motor that I will be putting in a 2017, I’m sure someone has done it before. Does anyone know what problems come with this swap and what do I need to swap from my current engine to the next one?
2011 motor in a 2017 what are the differences?
- Thread starter Stefano
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Joshw0000
SHO Member
Someone here tried to put a newer motor in a 2010-2012 and had issues. I'll see if I can find the post and link it.
Edit - WSHO is the one who had all the problems. I don't think he made a dedicated thread but he had commented in other threads about it.
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Edit - WSHO is the one who had all the problems. I don't think he made a dedicated thread but he had commented in other threads about it.
Sent from my SM-S928U1 using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
Cylinder heads and exhaust manifolds look like the same up to 17, the intake manifold and oil pan looks like a 10-12 only. the block I cant check as the only listing is for 3.5 non turbo for some reason. I learned a trick working in the salvage yard to use car-part.com to check interchange since i dont have access to the program anymore. looks like if you use the long block from the 11 (block and heads) and swap everything else over from the 17 you should be okay unless the block was updated at some point. more experienced minds like @shoblock could weigh in possibly, it looks like the block is the wildcard and if thats the same externally at least so you can mount everything to it then should be good to go
bpd1151
Lurking Around
When my factory motor popped in my GEN4 2010 MY, a brand new (2014) block was ordered from FMC, and everything on/around the block was swapped over without issue.
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I saw post on here saying that the engine mounts changed a couple times throughout production. I’m pretty sure I read that they were able to swap the mounts and brackets from the outgoing engine. I think he said the trans mounts were the only issue but I’m using the same trans. Thank you so much for the hints
Ta2dResqr
SHO Member
I believe early valve covers are aluminum and later are plastic. While you have them off, I would do plug seals, VVT seals and VVT solenoids.
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
And if they're aluminum polish em up
I have turbos with <1000 miles on them, going to empty the tc and flush trans, change ptu fluid, plugs, injectors, water pump, chains, vvt solenoids and any brittle or broken items. Is there anything I should be looking out for to change or as preventative maintenance while the engine is accessible?
Junkyard_Mad-Scientist
SHO Member
The engine and trans mounts are worth replacing, i run factory ford but others here may have some advice toward some better aftermarket ones (greaseable). Also worth inspecting your cv axles while you have everything apart assuming you are dropping the kmember to do the swap. just got done hunting down a surge issue and @kryptto was kind enough to share a video that goes in depth on an issue with the cv axles no one would ever think to check but will cause a lot of issues.
Ta2dResqr
SHO Member
Cam phasers and tensioners. Cloyes has a kit for the 2010 that has the phasers, sprockets, VVT solenoids, chains, guides, tensioners, and water pump. Transmission and Motor Mount. Lower mounts with the AD Mounts. New oil lines to the turbos or at least the filters in the line. Remember when you are ordering motor parts to order for the 2011 or research how to switch over. The 2011 has a different timing set then the 13+.
So pretty much everything I just did to my factory engine lol. At least I’ve been there and done it the hard way before. Should be a little easier with it out now.
If the timing set is different I’m guessing that’s going to mess with my tune?
Ta2dResqr
SHO Member
I do not know that for sure. I think it was something along the lines of double roller vs single roller. I don't know for sure. I do know they are different part numbers. I think there was discussion on here about the difference and someone wanting to update to the 13+. It may just involve switching to the new sprockets and phasers. I hadn't looked into it much as I have a 2015. I just know I couldn't buy the Cloyes kit with everything. I had to buy phasers and VVT solenoids separate.
That’s the next thing I was wondering. I saw the 11 water pump calls for a single roller chain but my 17 calls for the dual. I’m going to try and see if I’m able to “update” the timing set.
shoblock
SHO Member
I've been retired for 4 years, so my memory is fading. The '11's and '17's have a lot of differences.
The better question is: Will my '17 computer be able to operate this '11 motor? Short answer is no. 2013 brought radical changes with updates each year thereafter. It's easier to swap the same year, and ideally the same month motor, or there will be a laundry list of hardware changes. I worked in the factory where the motors were built and there were several instances involving inventory close out where pre-revision engines were completely cleared out of assembly and sent to 're-man'. It would be FAR easier to rebuild the '17 motor with new parts.
Differences off the top of my head:
-Crankshaft all parts bolted to both ends of the crankshaft to include timing gear and oil pump.
-Main bearing bolts, coarse vs fine threads
-Rocker arm covers, venting and underlying cam advance controls
-Timing chain(s) and all gears in the front of the motor
To name a few.
I guess you can do anything with enough time and money but I would not attempt this swap.
SHOBLOCK
The better question is: Will my '17 computer be able to operate this '11 motor? Short answer is no. 2013 brought radical changes with updates each year thereafter. It's easier to swap the same year, and ideally the same month motor, or there will be a laundry list of hardware changes. I worked in the factory where the motors were built and there were several instances involving inventory close out where pre-revision engines were completely cleared out of assembly and sent to 're-man'. It would be FAR easier to rebuild the '17 motor with new parts.
Differences off the top of my head:
-Crankshaft all parts bolted to both ends of the crankshaft to include timing gear and oil pump.
-Main bearing bolts, coarse vs fine threads
-Rocker arm covers, venting and underlying cam advance controls
-Timing chain(s) and all gears in the front of the motor
To name a few.
I guess you can do anything with enough time and money but I would not attempt this swap.
SHOBLOCK
Crio
Member
As I recall from having to pull it back out and remove the trans the timing ring behind the converter is totally different or somethin. It’s been years but I know I had to pull the trans off to swap parts on the motor
I looked heavily into rebuilding my engine but could not find anyone that does the cylinder coating
Would I be able to swap my timing set over to make it work?
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