So what did you do to your SHO today!?
- Thread starter LongNap
- Start date
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Is it an oem thermostat or a aftermarket one. I've had problems before from aftermarket thermostats.
Aftermarket. This is funky because if it was stuck closed you would think the car would overheat?
Ta2dResqr
SHO Member
Installed PPE catted downpipe (coated in DEI silicone coating and DEI titanium wrap) and an Ortiz tune. Now to get some miles and datalogs!
2K16SHO
Member
Brought the SHO out of winter hibernation up here in Rochester NY! Did an oil change, trans drain/fill, RDU fluid change and loaded AJP tune. Next thing is to install my new AD trans mounts.
Frank W.
Member
I have dedicated tires & wheels for winter and summer. Also I change them over myself. Stock 10 spokes murdered out for summer and 18”steelies with Blizzaks for the winter. Maybe an hour to swap over in my driveway. I usually switch around November and back over in April here in New England. Works for me. 
M.J
Active Member
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Ready to send a rod to space! Just waiting on my 13+ manifolds and misc lines/hardware. Wasn’t really planning on upgrading my turbos just yet but they decided to go bye bye sooner than I thought…
M.J
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Gearhead
Lowrider1976
Grandma's grocerie getter
jasong_10
SHO Member
Found a suitable spare tire to replace the inflator kit.
And installed the noisemaker delete.
And installed the noisemaker delete.
2K16SHO
Member
I went the OEM route for the noise maker delete as well and I'm happy with it so far.
Did you go with an Explorer spare or one from a non-PP? I have a 16 PP and want to put a spare in it at some point.
2K16SHO
Member
I see from another post you got the spare from an Explorer.
jasong_10
SHO Member
Yeah, the Explorer spare is only 1.5" shorter than stock while the non-PP is almost 3" shorter if I remember correctly.
jasong_10
SHO Member
Upgraded the lower mounts.
Wsho
SHO Member
Anybody want to buy my SHO. it's getting to that boiling point, (No pun intended) Put the SHO in the shop 2 days ago to figure out what's going on with temperature issue. Had a whole engine flushed pressure test everything seems to be good. Changed one of the coil packs put in new spark plugs. Picked it up this morning drove it home couple hours later drove it to the Ford dealer to buy some O2 sensors and on the way home of course temperature issues again went straight to hot back to normal to hot a couple more times.
Put a new thermostat, motor flushed, new coolant.
Spent over 20k on it in 2019 only driven it alittle over 5k miles
Any idea what the issue could be.
The shop is blaming it on my car being modified.
Put a new thermostat, motor flushed, new coolant.
Spent over 20k on it in 2019 only driven it alittle over 5k miles
Any idea what the issue could be.
The shop is blaming it on my car being modified.
Damn man, you’ve had a string of unfortunate events. I’m also not sure what the problem could be.
Bluezone
Tailgaters will be prosecuted.
Off the top of my head change the thermostat even if it's been done already. Slight chance the replacement might be bad as well. Closely monitor your coolant level. Today I discovered I had a slow leak around the thermostat housing because the gasket had been dropped during installation. Obviously burp the cooling system well again. Monitor your ignition timing and knock sensors. Pull your a radiator and make sure it isn't plugged with dandelion fluff. Make sure you're running good fuel. It's still transition time for summer and winter gas. Make sure your fans are running. Everything I could think of.
Wsho
SHO Member
Well there are no visible leaks that we can see whatsoever. This is the second time the thermostat was changed in a month.. everything was changed and is brand-new the only thing I have not changed that's part of the cooling system would be the heater core.
Could that be the problem? Or what about the water pump? How can you tell if you have a bad water pump?
Bluezone
Tailgaters will be prosecuted.
Well to see if you have any pressure leaks, you need to pressure test system. The easiest way I can think to do that, is to pressurize the system via the hose to the degas bottle.
Pull the hose off and plug it with a bolt with a clamp on it. Next take a piece of hose and hook it up to the bottle and pressurize the system to 12 or 13 PSI , through that. Whatever pressure doesn't cause the pressure relief to kick in .
You will need a regulated air source in order to not over pressurize the system. Make a note of where the coolant is sitting in the bottle and leave the pressure on for 15 minutes to a half an hour. If the coolant level drops you've got a leak somewhere.
The only thing I could think of is to listen for any whining noise from the water pump which will be hard to detect with it mounted behind the front cover. Anyone care to chime in on other ways tell whether or not the water pump is good or bad.
Pull the hose off and plug it with a bolt with a clamp on it. Next take a piece of hose and hook it up to the bottle and pressurize the system to 12 or 13 PSI , through that. Whatever pressure doesn't cause the pressure relief to kick in .
You will need a regulated air source in order to not over pressurize the system. Make a note of where the coolant is sitting in the bottle and leave the pressure on for 15 minutes to a half an hour. If the coolant level drops you've got a leak somewhere.
The only thing I could think of is to listen for any whining noise from the water pump which will be hard to detect with it mounted behind the front cover. Anyone care to chime in on other ways tell whether or not the water pump is good or bad.
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