Virbations when braking from high speeds.

[Ta2dResqr]

After reading some posts, I am never going to mention how much I usually spend on brake pads... I feel disgusted to realize how cheap I am... lol !

Just hung pads and rotors all around on the b e a t e r for $100. Nothing like cheap and easy.

 

[RonPorter]

Well, in 26 years of HPDE track days, I have never "warped" a rotor. And, as I've been advising for at least 20 years, buy the cheapest blank rotor you can find. The Rock Auto Closeout $10 SHO rotors, as well as the $7 rotors for my SVTF did just fine. With a steady diet of PF, Hawk, Porterfield and Carbotech pads over the years.

I can provide articles by brake experts, including Stop Tech and others, that dispel the "warped" myth. But, most wouldn't read them anyway. Guys who turn rotors (hardly anybody anymore) aren't experts. I doubt they analyze the shavings. This has been known with track folks for years. I pretty much dispelled the 10.2" rotor warping myth, but people stay set in their preconceptions. I file it along with the old Mechanic's Tales about never flushing your brake fluid or ps fluid.

 

[SHOrod]

Thanks for this, So going back to the improper torquing if I torque the wheel nuts to tight? or the brake caliper after changing, im guessing that could be the cause from what you are saying. I normally don't tight the nuts super tight but just tight enough so they can't get loose if that makes sense? I just got the new front rotors but they do look like they are forming "rings" from the brake pads, I imagine it might just be one of the calipers acting up so I'll need to to test them this weekend and get a new caliper slide and possibly getting the surface of the rotor machined

Every threaded fastener associated with doing a brake job will have a torque spec and possibly call out thread locker. But the torqueing I was primarily referring to is when tightening the lug nuts. If you do not follow the recommended torque pattern and value when installing the wheel, you can end up with a pulsation during braking. Also, you want to be real sure the hub and rotor mating surfaces are free of any debris before installing the rotor. This is less likely to be an issue if using new rotors, but can be quite a concern with old rotors that have flaky rust in the rotor vents. That flaky rust can sometimes come free and end up between the hub and rotor. That typically will yield a pulsation under even light braking at low speeds though.

The specifics on the torque sequence and value can be found in your owner's manual. If you're curious what I do, I snug up all lug nuts by hand first, then turn my cordless impact to the middle setting and go around in a star pattern, only letting the impact hammer for a half a second or so. Then I remove the jackstands and lower the car to the ground, followed by using my torque wrench and torqueing all lug nuts, again using the star pattern, to the recommended value of 100 lbf-ft. Following the proper torque pattern and not significantly over-torqueing is probably most important.

Based on your original description, I really don't think the issue you are experiencing is due to a caliper or hose, unless like I mentioned previously, the vibration/pulsation continues for even a short time after you release pressure from the brake pedal.

-Rod

 

[Seraphim.312]

After reading some posts, I am never going to mention how much I usually spend on brake pads... I feel disgusted to realize how cheap I am.

Every threaded fastener associated with doing a brake job will have a torque spec and possibly call out thread locker. But the torqueing I was primarily referring to is when tightening the lug nuts. If you do not follow the recommended torque pattern and value when installing the wheel, you can end up with a pulsation during braking. Also, you want to be real sure the hub and rotor mating surfaces are free of any debris before installing the rotor. This is less likely to be an issue if using new rotors, but can be quite a concern with old rotors that have flaky rust in the rotor vents. That flaky rust can sometimes come free and end up between the hub and rotor. That typically will yield a pulsation under even light braking at low speeds though.

The specifics on the torque sequence and value can be found in your owner's manual. If you're curious what I do, I snug up all lug nuts by hand first, then turn my cordless impact to the middle setting and go around in a star pattern, only letting the impact hammer for a half a second or so. Then I remove the jackstands and lower the car to the ground, followed by using my torque wrench and torqueing all lug nuts, again using the star pattern, to the recommended value of 100 lbf-ft. Following the proper torque pattern and not significantly over-torqueing is probably most important.

Based on your original description, I really don't think the issue you are experiencing is due to a caliper or hose, unless like I mentioned previously, the vibration/pulsation continues for even a short time after you release pressure from the brake pedal.

-Rod

Right after I release pressure the car just drones, but Im guessing thats normal? I feel like im gonna need to retorque the wheel nuts now, smh I don't know my own strength after break changes smh.

 

[Kevin81]

Collapsed hose causing a caliper to drag. It gets worse after a firm press, due to the calipers not releasing as well as the other 3.

Get steel braided hoses, then bleed your brakes.

Also...


Rotors don't warp. They crack. Rotors are made from high carbon steel, which doesn't bend or flex in any way. 2 thongs cause run-out, even brake pressure wearing one section of rotor more than others, or pad material build up on the rotors. Don't buy cross drilled roots, they Crack. Buy slotted, cheapest ones you can, then get yourself a set of hawk brake pads.

Thank me later.

 

[RonPorter]

Collapsed hose causing a caliper to drag. It gets worse after a firm press, due to the calipers not releasing as well as the other 3.

Get steel braided hoses, then bleed your brakes.

Also...


Rotors don't warp. They crack. Rotors are made from high carbon steel, which doesn't bend or flex in any way. 2 thongs cause run-out, even brake pressure wearing one section of rotor more than others, or pad material build up on the rotors. Don't buy cross drilled roots, they Crack. Buy slotted, cheapest ones you can, then get yourself a set of hawk brake pads.

Thank me later.

On Ford (and similar) products, you will tend to have stuck sliders pins way before the rubber hoses start failing. And the key rubber hose failure is at the clamp to the frame, near the caliper. That's been after 10+ years, from the ones I've seen.

 

[FRANK FORD]

from 35 plus years of experience you have warped rotors.