Ideas to remove weight for better track results

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GotGrip?

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16 oz to 1lb

@Jordan I didnt know if you included the weight of the charge level sticker. Just giving you all the LB you can get.

He is referring to fl oz not actual weight. Refrigerant is very dense and typically weighs more, 12 fl oz of refrigerant does in fact weight about 1 lbs.

Edit: Most vehicles carry .95-1.6 lbs on average, this is generally what we see here at the bodyshop.
 
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Johnbigdog

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He is referring to fl oz not actual weight. Refrigerant is very dense and typically weighs more, 12 fl oz of refrigerant does in fact weight about 1 lbs.

Edit: Most vehicles carry .95-1.6 lbs on average, this is generally what we see here at the bodyshop.

Ok. I guess in the automotive world, everything is charged to the customer by weight so I dont have the conection of volume and weight. It's all weight to my becuase that is what I worry about.

Sorry skyshaddow.

Now I know.
 

skyshadow07

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I know some users have the Braile 21lb battery and have not had issues. I wanted to throw it out there that I got the Braile 17lb AGM and it has not given me any issues. I even had my car in accessory mode (listening to radio with 500 watt sub) for 30-45min while cleaning my steering wheel and it didn't phase the little battery. The batteries comes with an individual bench test sheet in the box, mine had 700 cranking amps and 1290 pulse cranking amps.
 

Jordan_R

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I know some users have the Braile 21lb battery and have not had issues. I wanted to throw it out there that I got the Braile 17lb AGM and it has not given me any issues. I even had my car in accessory mode (listening to radio with 500 watt sub) for 30-45min while cleaning my steering wheel and it didn't phase the little battery. The batteries comes with an individual bench test sheet in the box, mine had 700 cranking amps and 1290 pulse cranking amps.
I've had to jump my car minimum 3 times with the 21
 

High on Ethanol

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Has anyone performed pully swaps to reduce drag and weight? Also remove crash bars and other structures designed for street and highway use. Nitrogen fill tires, skinny rear tires and rims, Swiss cheese parts that aren't vital for safety....etc.
 

Jordan_R

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Has anyone performed pully swaps to reduce drag and weight? Also remove crash bars and other structures designed for street and highway use. Nitrogen fill tires, skinny rear tires and rims, Swiss cheese parts that aren't vital for safety....etc.
Besides crank pulley, alternator and condenser there is no other pulleys. Believe he's already got a lightened crank pulley. Myself I opted out of ac lol
 

High on Ethanol

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Besides crank pulley, alternator and condenser there is no other pulleys. Believe he's already got a lightened crank pulley. Myself I opted out of ac lol


Hmm maybe different diameter pulleys to reduce drag. Idk its tough to cut weight in modern vehicles.
 

skyshadow07

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Are you messing with me ***? I have reduced my crank pulley mass, replaced my crash bar with a custom lighter aluminum one and am currently 'swiss cheese'ing a second set of rear doors. Clearly I do not post enough haa
 

GotGrip?

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Are you messing with me ***? I have reduced my crank pulley mass, replaced my crash bar with a custom lighter aluminum one and am currently 'swiss cheese'ing a second set of rear doors. Clearly I do not post enough haa

Don't forget to pull the rear bumper and get that hole saw ready for the rearbody panel, go full civic on it! lol
 

High on Ethanol

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Are you messing with me ***? I have reduced my crank pulley mass, replaced my crash bar with a custom lighter aluminum one and am currently 'swiss cheese'ing a second set of rear doors. Clearly I do not post enough haa

I'm just waiting for a roll caged doorless SHO to rip a 10.99 using a 25k built 3.5 pounding 1100hp at 5800rpm and 1300tq at 1800rpm launching at 3k and dragging the driveshaft down the track before converting to fwd only and launching at 2000rpm and ripping a 10.00 with 2inch wide rear tires and drag slicks on the front.
 

Ecoboost_xsport

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I've got Braille i25x. Full Group 25 in size and only 11lbs

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y4mYio7vp13hAEcmNr0W8XqtfsYFyqQzTDDS2u0-xbbTH-aahnzxFOEUgDcPBlM4A13nVMUFY1AUtBlKxJhv1Uuo0zXRq5hO39pHh1hK_jmDU2FvM_XBq579hMV2PBD7z836D_VNsGwFS5lS8LO8nTZlj_WruDpLLxl8ST_8REv7yT97x0WnbsIvjPiGHyttMTgL5NY0AO2Iik36xHlweJ9tw


And not applicable to you guys, but removed my folding 3rd row seat:
y4m27w5XLIfyNAU9hUUlElfMBRPCBjP9M9m5OO-gLokgoG4JswqVq1SxZgflZt2L-8oSo_lI5wLBuc24hQ5rMEduu8dHdRjq_D5T3x_7cjjBKsyb2x4jhbSwdHYMnl_1kVKOWJb7ABtrFKpZcOVQEhozvZbxNhupHClCAj6WcsCeXrm-LVvTjeyVbxETRkTqj0rXgTJqA4F5Aa_ZxX6uxpU0Q
 
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Ecoboost_xsport

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@Ecoboost_xsport have you had any problems with a battery that small? You remember what it tested at for cranking amps?

It actually kicks more starting amps then the stock battery. It's got a PCA of 1280, stock has CCA of 650 and CA of 810. Different metrics, yes, but for engine cranking purposes (3-5 second duration high current draw PCA metric vs 30 second CCA metric), it has roughly twice the cranking ability. And it's VERY noticeable when staring vs the OEM. The thing cranks RIGHT over. Lol.

Reserve Capacity is about 60 minutes vs 130 minutes of OEM, but I never let the car sit for that long with accesesories on, nor do I have a high current draw stereo.

It lives on a trickle charger. I pull home and plug it in, so it's always good to go.

I've had it since May of last year and have had zero issues. Braille is a top tier battery company, so I've got a little more faith in their quality control as well.

That was a long winded way of saying, "No", lol.

But it was very pricey, I'll say that much...
 

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