Custom Fiberglass Subwoofer Enclosure

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Joshw0000

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That would work great to get a 1 ohm load 7a9f7b27ec86463b7344c2586fef2c47

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Unfortunately my sub is a 2 ohm, not a 4 ohm. It's still a big "if" at this point. I don't think I'll need another sub. I'm just wondering what to do with all the extra fiberglassing supplies I'll have left over.

EDIT: I found this online. I think this is what both of you are saying. I just need to see pictures of my exact ohms to understand, lol. I could get both subs at 2 ohms/400 watts RMS. It would be a while before I ever do this, if I ever do it. But this will be here for quick reference.

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xFallenxCripplex

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Unfortunately my sub is a 2 ohm, not a 4 ohm. It's still a big "if" at this point. I don't think I'll need another sub. I'm just wondering what to do with all the extra fiberglassing supplies I'll have left over.

EDIT: I found this online. I think this is what both of you are saying. I just need to see pictures of my exact ohms to understand, lol. I could get both subs at 2 ohms/400 watts RMS. It would be a while before I ever do this, if I ever do it. But this will be here for quick reference.

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13eab27dca2209fccbc441d7f73256e5
You can use the extra supplies to make a under engine cover.

If you get a bigger amp it will be more efficient heat up less at 4 ohms when you push 2 and 1 ohm they get really hot and that's when you start to see more light dimming but that's also once you go over a certain point
These amps are far better then when I was a kid I use to get light dimming on a 350 running 2ohms and got really hot but I have a 1200watt at 2ohms with zero dimming and the amp is still very cool after hours.

I think it's better to go 150% more then you need to get the bump you want even on low volume songs.

But money is usually more the issue when you think about going more power.



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Joshw0000

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Still slowly making progress...

I've added wood dowels for strength on the flat spots and laid another layer of glass. I think this is the 6th layer. I bought a small pack of biaxial fiberglass that I'll use for the 7th layer. It's already pretty strong but I should be able to stand on it after that without any flex at all.

I've conducted 2 different scientific volume tests (that's a joke) which led to me trimming some glass off the front. #1 = water test. This isn't easy considering the box currently only has 3 walls. So I filled 3 trash bags with 6 liters of water each and carefully placed them in the box (this would be ~0.66 air volume = my minimum space requirement). This test shows that I have plenty of space although the instant a bag rolled any amount, it would pop from loose glass spurs. Test #2 = packaging materials from an exhaust we installed on my brother-in-law's truck. I measured a cardboard box to equal 0.75 cubic feet and stuffed it tight with shredded cardboard. Then transferred that cardboard to my sub box. The only issue here is that the shredded cardboard expands when I'm not compressing it. But even expanded, it stayed within the walls of the box. So at the end of the day, I think my box is somewhere close to 1 cubic foot (hopefully a little less).

I also finished prepping my speaker ring. It's ready to mount after the next layer of glass. Things should get exciting this weekend.20200323 194958

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Joshw0000

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7th layer is on (biaxial). It passed the 180 lb strength test but I still wasn't happy with the dowels so I body filled those. OMG, I see why the pros love this stuff. For one, you don't absolutely have to wear a mask and this stuff sets in minutes. I'm not concerned with how pretty it is since it'll never be seen.

I can't find any thuds in the box so I'm finally ready for the fun part. I'm just waiting on the wood glue to dry and I'll start spreading the fleece. Yes, that's paper towels stuffed behind the MDF. I'll peel it off once the glue dries.

And yes, I'm wearing camo shorts, white socks and crocks.

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Joshw0000

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For anyone reading who's a noob like me considering this project, here's some advice I can provide:

Don't use 1 oz chop strand. Start with 1.5 oz, then switch to biaxial or something heavier after about the 3rd layer.

Don't use wood dowels to create curves for "strength". They're more trouble then they're worth. Just stick with resin and fiberglass. Even if you have to lay a couple more layers, it's way less trouble.

Body filler is your friend! It's pretty freakin' great. If you can lay fiberglass, this stuff is easy. It adds weight and fills holes. Get the big can (I should have). Mix in small amounts, spread it, and keep working it until it gets tacky. Take about a minute to scrape off your tool and immediately begin sanding the filler (while its still tacky).

And here's the best trick I can recommend. I figured this out myself. Don't waste money buying a bunch of measuring cups and stir sticks for resin. Just save empty bottles. Take the caps off, toss them in a box and let them dry out. Once you have several, drill a small hole in the caps. Keep one empty bottle as your sacrificial measurer. Add 2 oz of water, draw a line, 2 more, draw a line, and so on. This is how you'll guesstimate your resin for other bottles.

When you lay fiberglass you'll figure out about how much works for you at a time. For me it's 8-10 oz with 8-10 drops of hardener per oz. If you know you're going to need to refill a couple times, go ahead and pour resin in 3 bottles but only apply hardener in the first one. Screw on the cap, plug your hole and shake it. It works great for squirting on your brush or wherever. And just trash the bottle when it's empty. Then add hardener to the next bottle and keep glassin'.

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xFallenxCripplex

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Fleece is on with a layer of resin. That fleece is thick so I ended up using about 32 oz. 3ebb1fcea7d4d7c3bd54ef98a18e2f3619b50d6c0e17eaf540dac8313bc878e3

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Looks good! Yes use small amount of body filler try to make it as thing and neat as possible and sand it the same day . If you are going to carpet it it really won't matter the carpet hides a lot. But is is very self rewarding if you can get the body filler to look good before carpet.

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xFallenxCripplex

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Looks good! Yes use small amount of body filler try to make it as thing and neat as possible and sand it the same day . If you are going to carpet it it really won't matter the carpet hides a lot. But is is very self rewarding if you can get the body filler to look good before carpet.

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How did you stretch and attach the fleece?

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Joshw0000

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How did you stretch and attach the fleece?

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I stapled the inside of the speaker ring, slowly stretched to the outter edges and hot glued. I noticed the fleece is still soft on the inside. Is yours like that? I'm planning to add poly-fil so I guess it already has some built in sound deadening.

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xFallenxCripplex

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I stapled the inside of the speaker ring, slowly stretched to the outter edges and hot glued. I noticed the fleece is still soft on the inside. Is yours like that? I'm planning to add poly-fil so I guess it already has some built in sound deadening.

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I didn't use fleece because I was just copying gm noice cancelling sub enclosure but I wanted to add a better handling sub.
I always forget about hot glue.

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Joshw0000

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I didn't use fleece because I was just copying gm noice cancelling sub enclosure but I wanted to add a better handling sub.
I always forget about hot glue.

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Ah ok. But you used some type of fabric, right?

Hot glue worked pretty well. It dries almost instantly and holds strong.

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xFallenxCripplex

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Ah ok. But you used some type of fabric, right?

Hot glue worked pretty well. It dries almost instantly and holds strong.

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No I just wrapped the box in tape because I didn't want to ruin the OEM box then fiberglassed it all then I cut it in half and gorilla glued it back together and bondo. I used my mdf circle as a template cut out the hole then I gorilla glued and firber glassed that I think.

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Joshw0000

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No I just wrapped the box in tape because I didn't want to ruin the OEM box then fiberglassed it all then I cut it in half and gorilla glued it back together and bondo. I used my mdf circle as a template cut out the hole then I gorilla glued and firber glassed that I think.

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Good idea. My mustang had the factory subs in a plastic box and I always thought they'd sound better in a real box.

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xFallenxCripplex

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Good idea. My mustang had the factory subs in a plastic box and I always thought they'd sound better in a real box.

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For sure since you can add a better handling sub and add more power.

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