DANIELE NEEDS A NEW BATTERY but why can't i find what the book says

[shaker281]

I wouldn't overthink this. I doubt it is really overcharging, unless you are going through batteries faster than normal. It is just a crappy battery. I've replaced mine twice at almost exactly 5 years and used the Walmart MAXX, no problems other than maybe waiting about 6 months too long. Also live in a northern climate.

And no need to obsess over the 650 vs the 750. One thing that I read a while back is that as you go up in CCA, you tend to go down in life cycle. It can be a bit of a trade off. But, for cold weather, I would accept that trade off and go with the 750, and did!

 

[SHOdded]

Never read that higher CCAs means lower life ... Means more lead plates and heavier batteries tho, given the same underlying tech.

 

[luigisho]

So going to check out the alternator tonight. Anyone have any other suggestions as to what would have overcharged my battery?

Often a faulty voltage regulator in the alternator can overcharge a battery. Also cells can become damaged from freezing inside and that can cause charging and bulging issues and damage occurs in the cell. A fully charged battery is more resistant to freezing. So in addition to a faulty battery, a lower charge (maybe weak alt input possible?) more susceptible to freezing, too much charge (too much alt output?) susceptible to damage it as well. A few things to keep in mind. I would check alternator output and make sure it's in normal range and recheck it every once in a while.

 

[SHOdded]

On the flip side, a faulty alternator diode can discharge a battery. A good overall resource
https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Why-My-Car-Battery-Discharges-Overnight-or-When-Parked

 

[Daniele]

Often a faulty voltage regulator in the alternator can overcharge a battery. Also cells can become damaged from freezing inside and that can cause charging and bulging issues and damage occurs in the cell. A fully charged battery is more resistant to freezing. So in addition to a faulty battery, a lower charge (maybe weak alt input possible?) more susceptible to freezing, too much charge (too much alt output?) susceptible to damage it as well. A few things to keep in mind. I would check alternator output and make sure it's in normal range and recheck it every once in a while.

I checked it last night and umm, while the car wasn't running I was at like 12.5 I believe and when it was running it was at 14 point something (I don't remember but the guy who checked for me said I was well within what I needed to be at). But we will continue to monitor it, I'll have him check it again this Saturday. We are thinking that perhaps because there was a potential the car sat for a while before it was sold to me, before even getting to the dealership I purchased it from, and perhaps it might have been overcharged or something at the point of getting it started again. But I'm absolutely going to have it checked every so often now, because once something like this gets in my head - I don't get paranoid but more aware, I would say. Though I'd say for a female, I'm very aware. Thank you for the advise and I certainly will utilize it.

 

[luigisho]

Those are good numbers. Once the 14 gets near 15 with alt running that's when it can get to be too much. Aware not paranoid is the right balance.

 

[Johnbigdog]

Our cars alternators are P.C.M. controlled. (Most ford alternators are pcm controlled with newer vehicles thinking back to 2005) There is quite a bit of strategy that goes into charging so you may not see a constant charge of x volts like in the past. In some instances the pcm may turn the alternator effectively off. Like cranking for example.

If the communication between the pcm and alternator is severed, the alternator will charge at about 13.x volts once the engine reaches 2000 (?) or so r.p.m.