Power Inverter wiring

[Coronach]

I recently picked up a small power inverter that I would like wire into the car. I'm sure someone here has done this already. Anticipated use is just to power a laptop or charge small batteries that don't use a cigarette lighter or USB charger, so the draw should be really low (the inverter can be plugged into the cigarette lighter and works fine). I was wondering where to place it and where to tap into power.

My first thought was under the passenger seat, which would allow access to power for both the seat heater and the motors. Thoughts?

And yes, I am aware that a dedicated line to the battery is best for an inverter, but since this is low-draw usage, I figured I may as well try splicing in somewhere. If I wind up blowing a fuse, I'll know that it is too much of a draw for the wiring. And no, I will NOT be putting in a bigger fuse to compensate, I don't want a carbecue.

 

[FiveLeeter918]

I have been contemplating this myself actually, especially with datalogging and having a laptop that only holds a 20 minute charge haha.

Initial question would be more where you want to mount it, then find a source to power it from there. It also depends on the specific inverter you use and the size of the power wire. Since most of our wiring is 16-18awg, tapping a 4 gauge power wire is going to draw some crazy current and pop your fuses quick. If the inverter has smaller gauge wiring, I would look at utilizing a source that you don't already use often, such as the lead to the 12v outlet (I hardwired my cell phone charger and pulled from here, works great and keeps everything hidden under the console).

Despite really wanting to tap an existing wire, going straight from the battery is really going to be your best bet, then you can install an illuminated switch and fuse in line so that you can always know when it's on to not **** the battery.

 

[Coronach]

Yeah, I understand the pros of running it directly to the battery, but it is a PITA that I don't want to do for such a small inverter. If this thing was of any size, I'd have to do it, obviously, but it isn't. It can run off of the standard 12v outlet via a plug, so I fail to see why hardwiring it to the same circuit is any different from power-draw and wiring-safety standpoints.

 

[FiveLeeter918]

yea as I said it all depends on size, you just want to make sure to match up wiring size whenever possible to reduce the chances of a current spike. You can pull the console with an 8mm ratchet and tap the wires behind the 12v outlet, it's a 20A fuse IIRC so you'll be fine then you can just feed the wires to wherever you want, either mounted to the side of the console in the passenger kick panel or under the seat (although it's a bit restrictive if you have climate seats).

Good luck! post a tutorial when you do it, I'm sure others will be interested.

 

[Rotor]

“tapping a 4 gauge power wire is going to draw some crazy current and pop your fuses quick.” And then “Despite really wanting to tap an existing wire, going straight from the battery is really going to be your best bet“
Just what size wire do you think the battery has?
Tapping off of, say, a 50 amp circuit doesn’t mean your shoving 50 amps down the devices throat. It means there’s 50 amps available to whatever’s attached to it. The inverter is going to draw however much it needs up to its internal overload rating. An in-line fuse is always a good idea though, as is a prominently located switch.

While I’m not a fan of splicing into existing circuits to add an automotive accessory, yes, the seat motor is probably adequate for your inverter though it might not take both at the same time and it may have other things on it that you haven’t considered. The seat heater circuit probably doesn’t have an energized wire to it until the heater is turned on but without looking at a schematic I’m guessing here. They may even be on the same line together. If the labeling on the fuse box isn’t clear just pull the thing and see what stops working.

And yes, worst case the fuse (should) blow if it’s too much load. Though once I saw one that didn’t and it fried a whole harness.

 

[stripSHO]

It can run off of the standard 12v outlet via a plug, so I fail to see why hardwiring it to the same circuit is any different from power-draw and wiring-safety standpoints.

If that's the case then there is no difference if you splice into the nearest power point circuit. But let me know where you're wanting to stash it; I have the complete wiring diagram (for 2016) and can tell you your best option right down to the wire colors. Under a front seat has plenty of options I'm sure.

 

[FiveLeeter918]

If that's the case then there is no difference if you splice into the nearest power point circuit. But let me know where you're wanting to stash it; I have the complete wiring diagram (for 2016) and can tell you your best option right down to the wire colors. Under a front seat has plenty of options I'm sure.

Front seat is pretty tight if you have climate controlled seats. Was my first choice but no room.

 

[FiveLeeter918]

“tapping a 4 gauge power wire is going to draw some crazy current and pop your fuses quick.” And then “Despite really wanting to tap an existing wire, going straight from the battery is really going to be your best bet“
Just what size wire do you think the battery has?
Tapping off of, say, a 50 amp circuit doesn’t mean your shoving 50 amps down the devices throat. It means there’s 50 amps available to whatever’s attached to it. The inverter is going to draw however much it needs up to its internal overload rating. An in-line fuse is always a good idea though, as is a prominently located switch.

While I’m not a fan of splicing into existing circuits to add an automotive accessory, yes, the seat motor is probably adequate for your inverter though it might not take both at the same time and it may have other things on it that you haven’t considered. The seat heater circuit probably doesn’t have an energized wire to it until the heater is turned on but without looking at a schematic I’m guessing here. They may even be on the same line together. If the labeling on the fuse box isn’t clear just pull the thing and see what stops working.

And yes, worst case the fuse (should) blow if it’s too much load. Though once I saw one that didn’t and it fried a whole harness.

Hi, welcome to the forum. I think you misread my entire post, as you first rebutted it then agreed with it.

 

[Rotor]

Hi, welcome to the forum. I think you misread my entire post, as you first rebutted it then agreed with it.

I’m fairly sure I read it right and I wouldn’t say I rebutted the whole thing, just one part of it. Though perhaps I did misunderstand the statement. Are you suggesting that hooking the inverter to a large gauge wire will cause it to blow fuses? He already stated that it works off the 12v socket so the load is apparently nominal. My apologies if I took what you said bass akwards.

 

[stripSHO]

I’m fairly sure I read it right and I wouldn’t say I rebutted the whole thing, just one part of it. Though perhaps I did misunderstand the statement. Are you suggesting that hooking the inverter to a large gauge wire will cause it to blow fuses? He already stated that it works off the 12v socket so the load is apparently nominal. My apologies if I took what you said bass akwards.

Nah I think you read him backwards, as OP had not stated the size of the inverter until AFTER that post.