Some new info I ran across concerning DI system valve coking

[6500rpm]

This was kind of interesting, it came up on a monthly Tech call we do with GM. This was concerning cleaning DI systems. The tools and process are GM related, but I can see cross over uses. The links below are generic from a quick search, but the tool part numbers are correct.

Application: All models with gasoline engines with Direct Injection (SIDI)

EN-35800-20 is used with J-35800-A Fuel Injector Cleaner to remove carbon from the upper intake tract, from the back of the throttle body and from the valves on SIDI engines. Previous PFI systems introduced cleaning product through the fuel injectors using previously Essential J-35800-A Fuel Injector Cleaner, which attached to the fuel injection supply lines. On SIDI engines, the injectors are in the combustion chamber of each cylinder, and will not introduce the approved cleaning product into the intake tract. EN-35800-20 is installed between the intake snorkel and the throttle body to allow introducing the atomized cleaning product ahead of the throttle plate, and allow it to reach the entire intake tract. Once positioned, the valve on J-35800-A is opened, allowing atomized cleaning product through EN-35800-20 to clean the intake tract while the engine is running.


https://www.handsontools.com/Kent-Moore-J-35800-A-Cleaner-Fuel-Injection-J35800-A_p_26258.html

https://gmtoolsandequipment.com/en-US/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?SKU=EN-35800-20

 

[xFallenxCripplex]

Ok so it's like seafoam intake cleaner but reusable and ability to put your own concoction in.
Also have they mentioned about on a turbo model if this is an allowable approach or if walnut blasting is still best?


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[SHOMON]

Which chemical is GM recommending to use with the new tool?

 

[shaker281]

Makes me wonder how this may be different from other products like Seafoam and CRC that may damage rings, cylinder bores and turbos?

 

[SHOdded]

These products will not damage the engine in and of themselves. But the stronger the product, and the more the buildup, the more likely it is the deposits will come off in chunks, which is the real problem (turbos). Oil and filter should always be changed right after any such treatments, and possibly another one in quick succession to eliminate remnants. Borescoping the extent work is thus advisable before starting the cleaning. And treatments should be maintenance (preventive) rather than emergency use.

 

[shaker281]

^That is some great advice!

 

[6500rpm]

Just getting back on this-GM top engine cleaner Pn 19355198 there is a TSB #16-NA-383 for the cleaning procedure on GM vehicles. SHOdded has it covered above. In a nutshell, from what I've been told it just depends on the extent of the build up on the back side of the intake valves. On a lower mileage car, or a vehicle without significant carbon, no damage to the turbo is expected. One other thing to add to SHOdded's post is that it's good to do this right before changing your sparkplugs. Top engine cleaners tend to chase crap to the plug.

 

[MHW100]

These products will not damage the engine in and of themselves. But the stronger the product, and the more the buildup, the more likely it is the deposits will come off in chunks, which is the real problem (turbos). Oil and filter should always be changed right after any such treatments, and possibly another one in quick succession to eliminate remnants. Borescoping the extent work is thus advisable before starting the cleaning. And treatments should be maintenance (preventive) rather than emergency use.

Just changed my oil so not feeling super motivated to change it again right now per your advice. Does CRC fall under the umbrella of this advice or is this 'easier' on the engine? I have a 2018 with 10,000 miles on it very little of which are highway and about 2,000 tuned. Is cleaning even necessary on a low mileage engine or should I just be more diligent in giving it weekly rips down the highway?

 

[SHOdded]

CRC ... GDI cleaner? Yes, any GDI induction cleaning product falls under this umbrella. Ford does the best job of keeping the coking to a minimum among GDI-only engine producers. I would say if you get it done every couple of years/30,000 miles whichever comes first, you should be good. Low mileage does not mean low stress on the engine. Time OR mileage, just like with fluids. The Italian tuneup should work, but I have no supporting data to reach that conclusion.

 

[MHW100]

Thank you.

 

[MHW100]

quick follow up; Does a catch can reduce the coking?

 

[Jeff2017]

I don't think the Italian tune up will remove buildup on the back of the intake valves.

 

[SHOdded]

Yes, a catch can will be very good to have, as long as there is actually a problem, and you drain regularly. Most SHOs do not have a significant issue. For your SHO, keeping track of buildup in the intercooler is the best way to tell if a catch can can help.

 

[gwrabbit]

A lot of people over-hype the build up for direct inject engines.
The older ones, yeah, they were pretty bad with build-up. The new ones (like the ones in the newer SHO's/F150's), not so much. As dumb as Ford is, they are also smart. Unless you're experiencing a crazy amount of build up, I would wait on the catch can.

 

[SaveMelMac]

Any DI engine will have valve build up at some point. The newer DI engines that also have port injection just to spray the valves. Which the SHO does not have. IMO a catch can is a must on a DI engine, some platforms even block off the egr to try to reduce the build up.

 

[2011TAURUSSEL]

Different vehicle but same 3.5 E/B Twin Turbo (18 Explorer Sport) I have a Catch Can and drain a touch over 1/2 Tablespoon for 2000 miles. Is that normal, too much or too little?

 

[SaveMelMac]

Sounds pretty normal. Less is better.

 

[Jeff2017]

I had a 2007 Passat 2.0T and never had an issue with rough idle at 80k miles+. It burned a qt. of oil every 2000k miles or so too. If that car didn't have an issue with buildup, I'm not too worried about my SHO. Much better engine IMHO.

 

[GHNorth]

I had a 2007 Passat 2.0T and never had an issue with rough idle at 80k miles+. It burned a qt. of oil every 2000k miles or so too. If that car didn't have an issue with buildup, I'm not too worried about my SHO. Much better engine IMHO.

A quart of oil in 2 million miles? That pretty good.

 

[Jeff2017]

A quart of oil in 2 million miles? That pretty good.

Haha! It is good! Why was I complaining!