Gen 2 front wheel Bearing replacement Q&A.

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vortex2450

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I recently did a gen 3 brake upgrade. The bearings in the 94/95 knuckles I used were in much better shape than the originals on my car so I didn't replace them hoping I could get away with it. Well I didn't, the right side bearing is showing a considerable amount of play and the left side can't be far behind it.

So I am looking for advice on how to PROPERLY remove the old bearings and install the new bearings. I purchased two Timken (made in USA) 91-95 bearings with the hub assembly (part # 520100) so I won't be doing this again.

I realize these are press fit and I have access to a shop press. My questions are:

Do I press the old assembly out from the back(axle side) of the knuckle?

Do I press the bearing in first, install the cir clip and then the press hub into the bearing?

I realize the race needs to be spotless but do I need any sort of lub/anti seize liquids for the install?

Replies are greatly appreciated.

-josh
 
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1) press hub out of bearing from back side of knuckle.

2) remove snap ring. You'll need ******** big snap ring pliers to get it out and install the new snap ring.

3) press old bearing out from the front of the knuckle.

4) press new bearing into knuckle from the back side. Make sure your pressing tool of choice ONLY presses on the outer race.

5) support the inner race from the back side, and press your new hub in.

6) install new snap ring.



110% of the time, these bearings are pressed incorrectly, resulting in early failure. It's imperative that you support the inner race when pressing the new hub in.
 

vortex2450

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Great link. Thanks.

1) press hub out of bearing from back side of knuckle.

2) remove snap ring. You'll need dang big snap ring pliers to get it out and install the new snap ring.

3) press old bearing out from the front of the knuckle.

4) press new bearing into knuckle from the back side. Make sure your pressing tool of choice ONLY presses on the outer race.

5) support the inner race from the back side, and press your new hub in.

6) install new snap ring.



110% of the time, these bearings are pressed incorrectly, resulting in early failure. It's imperative that you support the inner race when pressing the new hub in.

Precisely the specific sort of information I was looking for. My interpretation of this is that the key point on re installation is to not put any load on the bearings themselves so that they won't flat spot.

Thanks!

-josh
 

rubydist

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just do the Gen3 subframe upgrade and you will never have to worry about that again.
 
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Great link. Thanks.



Precisely the specific sort of information I was looking for. My interpretation of this is that the key point on re installation is to not put any load on the bearings themselves so that they won't flat spot.

Thanks!

-josh

It'd be hard to flat spot them, but the inner race does separate rather easily if it's pressed in the wrong way. The inner race may or may not stay on the old hub when you press it out, you'll see that it's actually two tapered bearings inside there.
 

rubydist

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pressing them in incorrectly is guaranteed to screw them up. you must press on the correct race or the roller will be overloaded and will start to spall.
 

intimdatr

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Ive gotten pretty good at getting them in and out, the trick is getting a good jig built to press it evenly, I use some sockets stacked so its JUST the outer race and presses flat and put a little Anti-seize and they slide right in.
 
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I remove them with an air hammer, install the new one with an old outer race, and install the hub using a heavy steel tube supporting the inner race.

James Huber ftmfw.
 

kevinspann

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As said before, I remove them then replace them with gen 3 subframes. James Huber FTW
 

pjtoledo

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I use a length of 1" fine threaded rod and an assortment of specialty bushings. No press required.


Perry
 

NORMAN

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I use a length of 1" fine threaded rod and an assortment of specialty bushings. No press required.


Perry

I know this is a dead thread revival, but would you please elaborate on your method a little bit further?

Thank you in advance if you might see this, and would take a few minutes of your time to explain.
 

quikSHOilver

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I know this is a dead thread revival, but would you please elaborate on your method a little bit further?

Thank you in advance if you might see this, and would take a few minutes of your time to explain.

Hey Dude! How ya doin'? We gotta catch up and chat sometime! Hope all is well on your end!

You would be better off going Gen3 swap, that will alleviate all the prehistoric bearing pressing B.S.! Just sayin'. :wave:
 

pjtoledo

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I know this is a dead thread revival, but would you please elaborate on your method a little bit further?

Thank you in advance if you might see this, and would take a few minutes of your time to explain.

send me your email in a PM, I'll send some pictures. Unless you have an assortment of big 'n nasty washers/sleeves/disks/stuff it is cheaper to take the knuckle to a shop.

Perry
 

NORMAN

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send me your email in a PM, I'll send some pictures. Unless you have an assortment of big 'n nasty washers/sleeves/disks/stuff it is cheaper to take the knuckle to a shop.

Perry

Hello there,

Thank you for your time and help.

A PM has been sent with my e-mail address.

Thanks!
 

NORMAN

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Hey Dude! How ya doin'? We gotta catch up and chat sometime! Hope all is well on your end!

You would be better off going Gen3 swap, that will alleviate all the prehistoric bearing pressing B.S.! Just sayin'. :wave:

Hey man! I'm doing alright, and you? You've been doing a great job with your SHOs, so let's keep it up! :evilgrin: We'll definitely catch up and chat one of these days, so I'll keep in touch with you via *** on here.

After your suggestion, I had to go and do my research yesterday, on the Gen3 subframe swap.. I may have some questions, but I'll take them to *** with you if so. I see you have done it w/ your SHOs..

Thanks for coming in here, and I'll talk with you again soon! :)
 

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