914-SHO Project Thread

[3d914]

If using 3-digit codes - the game changes completely.

PCM Codes:

• 126 (O,R,M) MAP or BARO sensor out of range - I've not checked/tested the BAP sensor yet.
• 519 (O) PSP switch/circuit open - I'm not using PSP switch
• 565 (O) Canister Purge 1 solenoid/circuit failure - I'm not using canister purge either.

So aside from testing the BAP sensor, the others are expected. Now to see if there is a way to prevent the CEL for these unused items.

Interestingly, when I compare the 2-digit codes I got on the B9B1 - it all makes sense.

• 22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range
• 52 Power Steering Pressure Switch/circuit open
• 85 CANP solenoid (ALL 1989)
  
  So at least that verifies I'm getting real-time CELs and not just stored values.

 

[Shovert]

On the MAP/BAP. Do you hook a vac line to it or not? I don't know maybe that is something he needs to check.
On the ps switch just plug a switch in the wiring and "hide" in car or I assume a closed switch tie wires together. Please someone confirm. On the canp solinoid same deal or could use a high wattage resistor [same ohm value] But since it would get warm. I think just plugging solinoid in would be easiest.
Another option and I don't know how. The computer can get "hacked" and maybe tell the computer to ignore it. I know some here that do tuning maybe can do that.

One a side note. Anyone here can do that please pm me I would like to turn the auto trans section of my computer off. 3.2. Maurice

 

[3d914]

Got the motor running pretty good. I spent some time letting it warm up to the point that the low fan (lite in my case) came on. Temp gauge was reading just before the R. Put an external fan on it at that point.

Some good things I noticed:

• Engine coolant temp rose slowly and steadily - nothing flakey there.
• Coolant hoses got warm on the return side indicating T-stat opened.
• Also noticed the heater hose got nice and warm
• Good throttle response

Do have a few minor issues:

1. Still getting valve noise intermittently - especially at low rpm (1100)
2. Also noticed valve noise when decelerating - again at the bottom of the decel when the rpms slow up
3. Weeping oil out the valve cover on only one side at one end.
4. Weeping oil out a threaded hole in the right (back) head I'm using as a bracket mount

I did a complete valve adjustment when I put the engine together, so it looks like I'll tear it down and review the measurements again.

Also noticed my used radiator leaks. Fortunately its high enough that its just a dribble - even under pressure.

 

[3d914]

Maurice,

On the MAP/BAP. Do you hook a vac line to it or not? I don't know maybe that is something he needs to check.

The BAP has electrical connections, but no vac line. It does appear to have a small air sampling port. I'll do some more research and test it.

On the ps switch just plug a switch in the wiring and "hide" in car or I assume a closed switch tie wires together. Please someone confirm.

Looking at the schematic for the 3.0, it appears I can close the circuit by connecting the #2 PCM lead to the GY/RD power circuit used by the rest of the sensors.

On the canp solinoid same deal or could use a high wattage resistor [same ohm value] But since it would get warm. I think just plugging solinoid in would be easiest.

I can check and see how involved this solenoid is. If it's small and unobtrusive I can plan to mount it out of the way in the engine bay.

Another option and I don't know how. The computer can get "hacked" and maybe tell the computer to ignore it. I know some here that do tuning maybe can do that.

Don't want to go this route. Major $$$ and not needed just to eliminate some CEL codes.

 

[rbruso]

Maurice,

The BAP has electrical connections, but no vac line. It does appear to have a small air sampling port. I'll do some more research and test it.

BAP should have a breather cap over the sampling tube, preventing you from attaching a vacuum line. It should be breathing to the atmosphere, not to the manifold. If you attach a vacuum line you'll make it a MAP sensor

Formal testing of a BAP sensor requires an oscilloscope, as the output is a wave. Usually you swap in a known good BAP to determine if the sensor is bad or the wiring is suspect.

Looking at the schematic for the 3.0, it appears I can close the circuit by connecting the #2 PCM lead to the GY/RD power circuit used by the rest of the sensors.

PSPS is a feed forward switch. It tells the computer that you're about to load it, so the revs should bump slightly. You don't want to just jump straight across as that will likely be telling the computer to up the idle constantly.

If this is a continuous code (Key on, engine off) then a simple resistor should suffice. If it is from the KEOR tests you'll just have to live with it, as the computer tests for you turning the wheel during the test to ensure the switch registers a pressure change. Good news: The KEOR PSPS failure will not turn on the CEL.

I can check and see how involved this solenoid is. If it's small and unobtrusive I can plan to mount it out of the way in the engine bay.

The CANP solenoid is about as big around as a half dollar and about 4" long, if I remember correctly. I can't recall if the computer just checks for resistance across the circuit or if it uses the O2 sensors to determine if it opened. When it opens, the O2 should read differently as it will either be getting excess fuel (if there are vapors present) or excess air (if no vapors are present). The line feeds in post MAF, so it would be unmetered air entering either way.
Again, if this is a KOEO code you'll need a resistor or the switch itself. KOER is another ballgame entirely, and would require a bit more research.

I should have one of each of those sensors around somewhere (and, of course, one of each on my car) that you could use to verify the codes. I'll have to dig through a couple of boxes to find them. The BAP and CANP are easy to get to on the car, but the PSPS is tapped into the hydraulic line.

 

[rbruso]

Okay, per the Probst book (good book for EEC-IV stuff):

CANP resistance: 40-90 ohms

Unfortunately it doesn't list resistance for the PSPS, but we can measure that ourselves.

It also has a quickie chart for checking a BAP without an oscilloscope (set to DC Voltage):

Approx alt: Output voltage:
---------- ---------------
Sea Level 1.55-1.63
1000 ft 1.52-1.60
2000 ft 1.49-1.57
3000 ft 1.46-1.54
4000 ft 1.43-1.51
5000 ft 1.40-1.48

As you can see there is a lot of overlap. This is basically a way to figure out if the sensor is completely off.

 

[rbruso]

Well, I found a BAP and a PSPS, but no CANP solenoid. The '91 parts car's previous owner had, ahem, customized the entire canister area and it looks like I either scavenged the one off of my old '89 or I pulled it off the harness and it's in a little unmarked box somewhere in the garage.

Unfortunately, I threw away the one that was stuck closed on my black '89 when I replaced it..

On the PSPS, it's near zero resistance, so I searched around a bit online. Looks like it's NC and it opens with pressure, so your idea of running VPWR to that line is a good one. You'll always get the KEOR code for not turning the wheel during the running self test, but I get that often enough with a functioning switch (problem exists between seat and steering wheel )

 

[Shovert]

Does it look like this.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...rq?filterByKeyWord=solinoid&fromString=search
If so they are on almost every Ford of that era in j-yard. I probably got one or more. Can have if do. [I am even reusing the one in my Mustang hooked to the SHO motor. It is to right of windshield washer tank. Yes one out of SHO.] Maurice
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w224/mgman75/93 mustang converiable/shomustang0022.jpg

 

[3d914]

Does it look like this.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...rq?filterByKeyWord=solinoid&fromString=search
If so they are on almost every Ford of that era in j-yard. I probably got one or more. Can have if do. [I am even reusing the one in my Mustang hooked to the SHO motor. It is to right of windshield washer tank. Yes one out of SHO.] Maurice
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w224/mgman75/93 mustang converiable/shomustang0022.jpg

Maurice, yep that's the one. I found it at RockAuto also. If you got a spare laying around collecting dust - send it my way. I'll need the mating connector if you have it - not on my harness. Glad to pay.

 

[Shovert]

Got one and tested it. Got about foot or so of the wiring. It is good. NO cost just want to help out. PM with address. Maurice

 

[3d914]

OK, tested my BAP and not getting voltage between MAP Sig & Sig. return. Still gotta test the VREF voltage for that particular connector (Batt & most sensors disconnected for valve adjust), but do have continuity from PCM #26 to MAP Vref, PCM #45 to MAP Signal, and PCM #46 to MAP Sig. return.

Time to go shopping again!

 

[3d914]

Since it wasn't 45 degrees today, I was actually able to get some work done in the garage. Shims came in so I finished up the valve adjustment. Some of the measurements I took previously were slightly different (+ .001 or .002). I was able to adjust my shim usage to get my desired gaps.

Do these motors use pressed in valve seats, or are the seats machined into the head? Didn't see anything in my book about it.

Also got the time-sert in. For anyone unfamiliar with the process here are some pics. I went with a kit so I wouldn't have to chase around looking for the right drill bit, tap, etc. The kit is sized by the thread you're repairing - so for the cover bolts it was a M6-1.0x10mm. All the work can be done by hand - power tools would be complete overkill. First & easy step was to drill out the hole, then use the c-bore tool. These tools are nice quality, so even work by-hand goes quick.

They suggest using compressed air to blow out material, but with the cover off I didn't think that was so wise, so I used my small vacuum instead.

Result was a nice clean counter-bore.

Next was the tap. Like the drilling, I used a 90deg allen wrench as an angle guide since there isn't much room. Oil was also needed to cut cleanly. Note for reference: the fitting for the tool on the tap was larger than the others so a #12 or larger T-handle was needed.

Finished result. Already got the cover back on, but will wait till morning to torque it down.

 

[intimdatr]

I think pressed? Id need to go down and look at my extra set of heads to be 100% sure on that.

 

[3d914]

I think pressed? Id need to go down and look at my extra set of heads to be 100% sure on that.

The reason I ask is that if not seated correctly, they can be a source of varying valve clearance measurements. Just not sure how common that is on these motors.

 

[intimdatr]

The reason I ask is that if not seated correctly, they can be a source of varying valve clearance measurements. Just not sure how common that is on these motors.

Ive never heard of anyone having issues with that on these motors. but i havent been around here near as long as many of the other members.

 

[Off Road SHO]

They are not pressed in per se, if I remember correctly. They freeze the seat (after machining the head for the new seat) and slide it in on a special tool that lines it up perfectly on the valve stem hole. As soon as it hits the relatively warmer head, the seat expands back to its original diameter, locking it in very tightly. I believe they then do a valve job on the new seats and valves.

BTW, I have a few heads, both with and without cams.

Tom

 

[3d914]

They are not pressed in per se, if I remember correctly. They freeze the seat (after machining the head for the new seat) and slide it in on a special tool that lines it up perfectly on the valve stem hole. As soon as it hits the relatively warmer head, the seat expands back to its original diameter, locking it in very tightly. I believe they then do a valve job on the new seats and valves.

BTW, I have a few heads, both with and without cams.

Tom

Tom, that sounds like the process used on the Porsche motors also. Do you know if this is a service items that needs redone over the life of the motor?

 

[kevinspann]

I think most would just lap the valves, and not replace the seats.

Whoever installed those heads didn't have their 10mm hex inserted into the head bolt all the way.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Gerard,

I'm not sure. Didn't you have the heads milled on that motor when you had it apart up here? Didn't we also do a rod and main bearing job also?

Valve (and their seats) are very hard steel and can only machined with carborundum stones rotating against opposite turning valves. I have a valve grinding set-up that I inherited but not enough knowledge to use it properly.

I agree with the above poster, run it up to temperature and run some top oil of some sort in the oil. Plain old ATF will do it also, and is much cheaper. I use it in the second oil change of every used vehicle I buy.

Tom

 

[3d914]

Gerard,

I'm not sure. Didn't you have the heads milled on that motor when you had it apart up here? Didn't we also do a rod and main bearing job also?

Tom

Tom, I recall that we did have the heads cleaned and magnafluxed for cracks. I even remember tkaing them down to the shop you suggested & picking them up. Milling sounds reasonable also. I just don't recall doing any valve work on them - or even taking the valves out for that matter. Here's posting of the list of work done.

The main and rod bearings we inspected, but I don't think we replaced any of them as they weren't that worn. It was like someone had already done the work previously.

I also noticed the sockets on the head bolts - but that's not my typical method. I tend to be very particular about that.