Hard getting into gear + vibration when hammering on it after mtx swap

[jbserra]

hello,

I had a 95 mtx shredded by a diff pin. I swapped a used mtx (120k miles, worked fine in previous car), ceramic tob, and CM stage 2 pp and clutch pad (approx 10k miles on tob,pp,pad). Post surgery, I had a LOT of vibration. I blamed that on a machined flat flywheel and a used clutch pad. I burned the crap out of it (maybe not the best idea) and a lot of the vibration went away. I'm left with vibration under hard acceleration and difficulty getting into most gears. If it was just the vibration, I think I would call it a day, but the difficulty shifting is annoying and unsafe.

I already am kicking myself for not simply getting a new clutch when I had it tore apart. Am I doomed to pull it back apart?

it seems to shift easily when the engine is off. The clutch seems to be engaging/disengaging appropriately when the car is running. I plan to check the clutch cable and make sure the drivers side cv is fully inserted. Are those just false hopes?

thanks

 

[93rev2sev]

I don't think they're related...the vibrating and hard shifting or the hard shifting and the clutch. Vibrating and the clutch...maybe related but it's not intuitive that burning the "crap out of it" would make it better.

 

[jbserra]

I'm not sure. I get the feeling the old clutch pad was worn funny. The old flywheel had a spot where it was worn deeper as if the clutch was hitting it off angle. I'm not sure if that translates to an unevenly worn clutch pad, but burning it seemed to get rid of the major source of vibration.

The root of my question is in the issue with the hard shifting. Could it be just the clutch cable, is there something else, or am I tearing the thing back apart again.

Thanks!

 

[whiteman_01]

Vibration and hard shifting can be cause by a broken strap on the pressure plate.

 

[jbserra]

... So, I'm tearing it apart...

Crap

 

[jbserra]

Assuming the pp straps are ok and the fingers are ok is it safe to throw in a new clutch pad and call it a day or am I asking for trouble? Just replace the whole thing?

Should I stick with a clutchmaster stage1 for daily driving?

Thanks!

 

[SHOVNST]

Learn from the problems you have now. Do it once, do it properly, and be done with it.

 

[jelloslug]

What fluid do you have in the tranny?

 

[jbserra]

Super Tech ATF. I think it was a Dexron III/Mercon compatible.

 

[jelloslug]

Put some synchromesh in there. All my shifting issues went away when I switched over.

 

[jbserra]

This stuff? LINK

 

[Blackdr16]

This stuff? LINK

Yes thats correct

 

[zak]

Disc in backwards?

 

[jbserra]

I'll find out this weekend!

...but I don't think so.

South Bend Stage 1 will be ordered up shortly.

 

[AREA 91]

Vibration and hard shifting can be cause by a broken strap on the pressure plate.

BTDT!

You can pull the starter and inspect the pressure plate straps.

Disc in backwards?

If this was the case, it would never disengage.

 

[jbserra]

Flywheel had some hot spots, pressure plate probably should've been refinished previously, clutch pad looked fine, wear on the fingers looked fine. I'm thinking if I would've refinished the PP and bought a new clutch pad, I would've been ok. To save myself another weekend of work, I'm putting a new clutch in.

Does someone have the picture of the good versus bad diff pin when looking through the axle hole? Am I supposed to see a pin across the hole or is that a bad sign? I remember seeing a picture on the forum but I can't seem to find it.

Thanks!

 

[frosho]

I don't have the pic, but yes, there should be one long pin with two short pins on either side.

 

[kevinspann]

Stick your finger in there and see how much in and out movement the short pins have.


I'd really like to replace the roll pins in my differential, but I don't know where to get them, and can't seem to knock the old ones out.

 

[jbserra]

whew, ok. Yes, I see the long pin across with the two short pins on either side. I will see if they have any play.

Thanks!

 

[jbserra]

Does this look correct for a SouthBend Stage 1? The strap and rivets don't look as good as the ClutchMasters I'm taking out. Is this normal? I've not heard anything bad about the SB clutch, but I certainly expected it to be as beefy as my old CM. Red is the SouthBend: