Omg help the noob, knocking

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zach44102

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sorry i would never neglect to run an engine dry. didnt mention i had a quart of 10/30 i put in for the 2 mile trip home to the garage....



ok so yes i understand that cap is blown to ****, and the rod probably is too.
which means ill need to replace that.... obvious.
but heres what im trying to get at... why not just mic em up, cant you get these things resurfaced? get a couple thousands bigger bearings and put it back in there?

OK the thread is titled "Omg help the noob,knocking"
Alot of people here have been doing this a long time and know what we are talking about. Buy another motor. To make this motor in running shape you would have to get the crank and rods resurfaced and run undersized bearings. but when you machine the the crank you take off the hardend coating and then the motor becomes a ticking time bomb.

You will have to buy new rods (good luck finding them) and buy the time you pull that motor apart and replace the head gaskets, rods, bearings, machine work, and other needed gaskets you will have done bought 3-6 motors in running condition.

Junk that motor. you could scrap that motor for aluminum and be able to pay for a running motor.
 

luigisho

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As much as it pains me...Zack is exactly correct. This motor is not worth all the work to salvage it unless you have a bunch of them lying around and know what you are doing and don't mind all the time it takes to mix and match rods, pistons, crank shafts or whatever needs fixin'. You can't slap in some new bearings and call it a day and expect the thing to last. It's cheaper and easier to throw a used motor in there.
 

auto.guru

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i have read, and understood all of what you guys have said.
i know the machine work on the crank takes the protective finish and coating off of it - but what do you mean a ticking time bomb? from heat and corrosion?

how many miles are we talking here if i just put new bearings in it and ran it? lol... if the motor is going to be junk either way, and i can get a few more miles out of it for $40...

I DO understand the importance of everything. im not really a noob, but you all have more experience with the SHOs than i do. let this be constructive criticism. im listening.
 

kevinspann

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I'm gonna go with 5 miles. Like Hamal said, all that stuff is hammered.

Not really trying to be a dick, but you'd just be money ahead by finding another motor and putting new bearings in that. People will practically give away 3.0s.
 

zach44102

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i have read, and understood all of what you guys have said.
i know the machine work on the crank takes the protective finish and coating off of it - but what do you mean a ticking time bomb? from heat and corrosion?

how many miles are we talking here if i just put new bearings in it and ran it? lol... if the motor is going to be junk either way, and i can get a few more miles out of it for $40...

I DO understand the importance of everything. im not really a noob, but you all have more experience with the SHOs than i do. let this be constructive criticism. im listening.

Rod bearings are already scarce. Please dont **** up a set because of ignorence. It will probably spin immedietly.
 

Racer X

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Rod bearings are already scarce. Please dont **** up a set because of ignorence. It will probably spin immedietly.
God dammit, stop making sense, Zach.

And he's right, rod bearings are getting scarce. Don't waste a set on this motor.

Also, you can't go resurface rods and caps. Bearing sizing refers to the crank journal, not the other way around.
 

auto.guru

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ahh shoot. im still learning more about bottom end rebuilding even more and more....
ive rebuilt top ends, but this is the first real time digging into a bottom end besides the schooling 2 years ago.

idk... ill be searching for a motor tomorrow but i doubt its gonna be anything cheap. im guessing somewhere of 350+. thats not exactly chump change for people to throw around.... but then again... maintaining the sho is not chump work either.

edit*
seeing as how ill have an extra motor... anyone need parts? lol
 

vortex2450

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The story -
Couldnt fill it up with any oil because i did not have cash on me. Drove it home gently.


I think I found your problem there chief.

Any motor plus no oil = death.
Scratch that one to stupidity for not either walking home and back or finding a ride.

Find a 3.2l, swap it in and call it a day at that.
That's my $ .02

-Josh
 

auto.guru

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sorry i would never neglect to run an engine dry. didnt mention i had a quart of 10/30 i put in for the 2 mile trip home to the garage....

...... wasnt dry.

and sorry nick... but no. the money ive put in to the driveline, i wont risk it by wanting to blow up the old motor.... cause if that siezes and suddenly stops... i fear a driveline failure in the works.
*plus - half the motor is already tore apart for the swap
 
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Racer X

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But 1 quart of oil isn't nearly enou...

...nevermind. Forget it. Beating a dead horse at this point. Good luck with the car.
 

19sho90

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Quit giving the man a hard time. He made a mistake and now he will write it in his book and move on. No need to be a Dick. Plus now he will have a new ENGINE(it's an ENGINE not a motor, my number one pet peve is when people try to tell me stuff about an ENGINE and they say motor, what motor, a starter motor?, wiper motor?, window motor?) that will last for a while!
Good luck on the 3.0 or 3.2 whichever you choose.
 
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Racer X

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Quit giving the man a hard time. He made a mistake and now he will write it in his book and move on. No need to be a Dick. Plus now he will have a new ENGINE(its and ENGINE not a motor, my number one pet peve is when people try to tell me stuff about an ENGINE and they say motor, what motor, a starter motor?, wiper motor?, window motor?) that will last for a while!
Good luck on the 3.0 or 3.2 whichever your choose.
First, kindly *** on motor vs. engine. I can't stand grammar hoes sometimes, you know what I meant.

Second, I'm a dick sometimes, deal with it.

If we did coddle him and say "I don't think it's a good idea, but hey, go for it", knowing full well what the end result would be, he'd be out some amount of time, not to mention the waste of a set of rod bearings. Instead, it's been made abundantly clear why his engine failed (1qt is not enough oil to keep the pickup fully submerged and prevent aeration), and why it's a fool's errand to invest any more time, energy, and money into it (see the previous posts).

In the end, he wins. No idea why your ******* are in a bunch over this.

To the OP, good luck with the swap. There is plenty of information on how to successfully complete the swap on SHOForum and other resources, but feel free to ask questions if your searching doesn't reveal an answer.

To you sir, I say good day.
 

19sho90

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I by No means am a grammar "***" look at my spelling sometimes, by NO MEANS perfect. I just think we where a little harsh. and i'm a dick sometimes too (See previous post). And yes this is a great website filled with great people willing to give a hand(That's why i'm here) some just tend to be a little harsh. I know when people are joking and not.
And ***?? Really are we 15 years old here. I'm not trying to be a tough guy over the internet, I was just stating Engine and Motor are two COMPLETELY different things. Its like calling my Blazer a Bronco. I know what your trying to get at but no, not correct. But yes in the end Potato, Patato.
 

zach44102

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Quit giving the man a hard time. He made a mistake and now he will write it in his book and move on. No need to be a Dick. Plus now he will have a new ENGINE(it's an ENGINE not a motor, my number one pet peve is when people try to tell me stuff about an ENGINE and they say motor, what motor, a starter motor?, wiper motor?, window motor?) that will last for a while!
Good luck on the 3.0 or 3.2 whichever you choose.

If you were smart enough to figure out which motor makes the car move we would not have this problem.
 

93rev2sev

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It's a "motor", actually.

Motor:
A machine, esp. one powered by electricity or internal combustion, that supplies motive power for a vehicle or for some other device

Engine:
A machine with moving parts that converts power into motion

Moving parts: Engines have them. Motors don't.
Converts power to motion: Both have them but a motor can usually convert motion to power, also.


Furthermore; If y'all'd like we can talk about the difference of the two terms when being used in cars.

For instance, When you say "Motor" I assume the engine and accessories, clutch, flywheel...When you say engine, I think ... well...only the engine.
 
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