Omg help the noob, knocking

[auto.guru]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oC84ypZ76SY

above is a video that was posted by another user.
it claims of a knock that is CLEARLY audible.
the first few seconds are all that i am concerned with as my car is making the EXACT same noise.
** The same noise in the first few seconds of the video - but is heard the whole time and does not diminish in volume unlike his motor. Acceleration and engine RPM are co-related.

The story -
Got off the highway. Filled up with gas. Noticed my oil light on. (which is funny because the oil level sensor wires are broken and not connected) Checked my oil. DRY. like.... wtf? i just did a huge project driveline wise and did an oil change. 1500 miles later i have no oil. People have told me that they smell oil when im WOT. I cant tell because im so used to oil and gas smells since i work at a shop and my smell is shot. Couldnt fill it up with any oil because i did not have cash on me. Drove it home gently. In 5th gear, i notice hesitation and slight stumble, confirmed with the oil light flickering on each consistent stumble. 2 miles later its in the garage. Fill it up with oil and the noise is still present. Checking oil level and see a small flame between the front manifold and the valve cover. WTH? Im about to give up on this car, and all fords altogether. Ive done what i can to keep this car a gem and its giving me more and more problems.

Key facts:
Oil light on with oil level sensor broken.
Oil light off under any accelerator pedal movement
Hesitation and stumble in 5th gear, low rpms - with oil light flickering
Loss of all 5 quarts of oil
Stethoscope cannot determine noise location - too loud and its present everywhere on the top and bottom of motor
Still happens with full oil level
Rpm co-related
Fire between manifold and valve cover

:booboo: :cry: :shappens:
all the smileys confirm my mental status atm. ugh fml

 

[auto.guru]

Now the 2 possible causes that everyone is going to throw out there are

1.) Timing belt tensioner
2.) Rod Bearing

Instead of riping apart the WHOLE motor, timing side and bottom end, how can we eliminate which one it is and is not?

 

[kevinspann]

There are TWO oil lights. YELLOW for Oil Level, RED for Oil Pressure.


Which one was on? Sounds like the red one. Also sounds like you spun a bearing or 3 due to low oil/oil pressure.

 

[19sho90]

Yup sounds like a Rod Bearing. .
.

 

[auto.guru]

thats only a demonstration video. but its damn close to the real thing....
how do we know its not the tensiorer? or a broken valve spring?

 

[luigisho]

We don't. It's the internet. Best guesses are all you can really expect. ****, experienced mechanics can't always pinpoint stuff the first time around. You try a stethescope to better track the noise?

 

[kevinspann]

The video is of an ATX that uses a hydraulic timing belt tensioner. The MTX has a manual tensioner. Those generally don't fail and make that noise.


You said the oil light was on. I asked which one. That bit of information is important to us trying to help you.

Being that it had no oil in it, and you drove it that way, it sounds like you need to start sourcing another engine.

 

[19sho90]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oC84ypZ76SY



The story -
Got off the highway. Filled up with gas. Noticed my oil light on. (which is funny because the oil level sensor wires are broken and not connected) Checked my oil. DRY. like.... wtf? i just did a huge project driveline wise and did an oil change. 1500 miles later i have no oil. People have told me that they smell oil when im WOT. I cant tell because im so used to oil and gas smells since i work at a shop and my smell is shot. Couldnt fill it up with any oil because i did not have cash on me. Drove it home gently. In 5th gear, i notice hesitation and slight stumble, confirmed with the oil light flickering on each consistent stumble.
Stethoscope cannot determine noise location - too loud and its present everywhere on the top and bottom of motor
Still happens with full oil level
Rpm co-related
Fire between manifold and valve cover

:booboo: :cry: :shappens:
all the smileys confirm my mental status atm. ugh fml

Yes he used a stethoscope

 

[luigisho]

How low are the rpms when the oil light flickers? Isn't it set to light up at very low rpms?

 

[zach44102]

you have a spun rod bearing.

 

[auto.guru]

Zach is correct.

The pictures will not lie...
i have to check the crank tomorrow... i am done for the day.


As you can clearly see below VVV, one rod bearing was TOASTED




If you look at the pic above and below, 2 caps do not have brown oil rings on them. I do not know if this is a problem, if they have been wore off, or what. Please provide input.

 

[kevinspann]

I think I got it back in post 3. Motor is junk. Pull it and find another one.

 

[auto.guru]

crank measures out.... no oval lobes or anything.
so how is this motor junk???

it just needs new rod bearings. idk how your internet mechanical hypothesis comes to believe that the motor is junk...
someone please explain to me that if the crank is NOT out-of-round, the rod bearings need to be replaced, and one cap needs replacement that somehow equals the motor is junk....

jeez. going on rock auto tom to order new bearings....

********.

 

[zach44102]

crank measures out.... no oval lobes or anything.
so how is this motor junk???

it just needs new rod bearings. idk how your internet mechanical hypothesis comes to believe that the motor is junk...
someone please explain to me that if the crank is NOT out-of-round, the rod bearings need to be replaced, and one cap needs replacement that somehow equals the motor is junk....

jeez. going on rock auto tom to order new bearings....

dang.

If the crank is scored, scratched, and is not mirrror finished the motor is garbage. and by looking at the bearing at the grooved, pitted, wear on them I can tell you from here that the crank is garbage. Dont buy bearing cause they will spin in 500 miles. Dont waste a pair of new bearings.
And if you dont believe me read on the forum about rod bearing alternatives. I hear you can use orange peels.

 

[kevinspann]

crank measures out.... no oval lobes or anything.
so how is this motor junk???

it just needs new rod bearings. idk how your internet mechanical hypothesis comes to believe that the motor is junk...
someone please explain to me that if the crank is NOT out-of-round, the rod bearings need to be replaced, and one cap needs replacement that somehow equals the motor is junk....

jeez. going on rock auto tom to order new bearings....

dang.

You made this thread asking for internet mechanical hypothesis.

 

[Racer X]

crank measures out.... no oval lobes or anything.
so how is this motor junk???

it just needs new rod bearings. idk how your internet mechanical hypothesis comes to believe that the motor is junk...
someone please explain to me that if the crank is NOT out-of-round, the rod bearings need to be replaced, and one cap needs replacement that somehow equals the motor is junk....

jeez. going on rock auto tom to order new bearings....

dang.

First off, your title needs to go, you're no guru with this statement.

On to the point of why your motor is *****...

Look at those bearings! They all look hammered to shit. The one that spun took out the rod cap as well as the rod itself. They're a matched pair, you cannot mix and match caps and rods. If you replace one, you replace both, period.

Then there's the rod caps for the remaining 5 that all have witness marks on them from the bearing moving around (which it should never do). The fact that I can see the witness marks from a low res photo tells me that those caps are also toast.

So, at the very least, you need 6 new rods.

Now, if there was no oil at the bottom end, there was most certainly no oil at the top end, which means your cams and shims took a beating as well. And what is the condition of your wrist pins? How worn are they now?

Face it, this motor is toast. If you insist on buying rod bearings, make sure they're installed in the new engine before you put it in your car.

tl;dr That engine is a write off. Sorry man.

 

[expy916]

Time for a 3.2=)

 

[93rev2sev]

Stopped reading either after "ran it dry", "IT keeps giving me problems" or "Give up on all Fords" - can't remember.

 

[auto.guru]

Stopped reading either after "ran it dry", "IT keeps giving me problems" or "Give up on all Fords" - can't remember.

sorry i would never neglect to run an engine dry. didnt mention i had a quart of 10/30 i put in for the 2 mile trip home to the garage....

First off, your title needs to go, you're no guru with this statement.

On to the point of why your motor is *****...

Look at those bearings! They all look hammered to shit. The one that spun took out the rod cap as well as the rod itself. They're a matched pair, you cannot mix and match caps and rods. If you replace one, you replace both, period.

Then there's the rod caps for the remaining 5 that all have witness marks on them from the bearing moving around (which it should never do). The fact that I can see the witness marks from a low res photo tells me that those caps are also toast.

So, at the very least, you need 6 new rods.

Now, if there was no oil at the bottom end, there was most certainly no oil at the top end, which means your cams and shims took a beating as well. And what is the condition of your wrist pins? How worn are they now?

Face it, this motor is toast. If you insist on buying rod bearings, make sure they're installed in the new engine before you put it in your car.

tl;dr That engine is a write off. Sorry man.

ok so yes i understand that cap is blown to ****, and the rod probably is too.
which means ill need to replace that.... obvious.
but heres what im trying to get at... why not just mic em up, cant you get these things resurfaced? get a couple thousands bigger bearings and put it back in there?

 

[93rev2sev]

That requires removing the piston so that you can take the rod and cap in together. On the 3.0 Vulcan I just broke down to take to the scrapper, only 2 of the 6 pistons came out the bottom and the rings got knockered in the process. I would imagine that none of the pistons will come out the bottom of the SHO engine intact; not to mention being impossible to get back in.