help! had battery unplugged, now engine misses...

[LongIslandSHO]

Hi all...
Ok, so I had a problem with my A/C... the clutch gap was too large, so I re-shimmed it.. but obv had to pull the battery in order to do that.
Ever since doing this, the engine seems to miss/hesitate under load when cold, but then seems to be ok once it gets up to temp. Also seems to do it moreso in 1st, 2nd gear while accelerating than any other time.
Bad hesitation, and sounds like clanging or something... but it doesn't stall... tach doesn't drop out, etc.. No CEL.
I will see if there are any codes tomorrow, but I'm just curious if perhaps someone has an idea of what it could be, and point me in the right direction?
I did a full upper/front 60k about a 16 months ago (8k miles).
Besides disconnecting & reconnecting the battery, and re-shimming the a/c clutch, I didn't touch anything else - which is why I'm perplexed. Car ran absolutely perfect until this.
Any/all help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Gregg

 

[digeronimo34]

Where are you located ?

 

[jayro]

First place I would start would be to check your belts and idler pullies. Make sure everything is tight ect. Not sure how this would cause a hesitation, but it sounds like something is loose.

 

[220ksho]

After checking your belts, try cleaning your MAF.

 

[rubydist]

it may just be that the pcm had 'learned' how to make the engine run well previously, and when you had the battery disconnected it was reset, so now it needs to re-learn all that. see if it gets better over the next couple weeks.

 

[LongIslandSHO]

PCM & Belts

see, that's what I thought it was... that the PCM was reset, and therefore needed to relearn everything... but I didn't realize that it took several weeks to get itself back to how it was.... I thought ya just had to let it idle for 20 minutes or something to set the idle correctly... assumed the rest of the engine sensors took care of the other stuff...

As for the belts/pulleys - it's definitely not that... I've checked them all, and I never needed to remove them in order to change out the A/C clutch plate.

I'll check the MAF, but does anyone else think it could be something else? I don't mind driving as-is for a while, but I also don't want to damage the engine if it's a sensor or worse that could lead to a more significant issue.

I will say this much again - the car idles absolutely fine - and it only hesitates/misses under load (when the throttle is open wide)... under regular acceleration, there is no issue at all.

Thanks again.
Gregg

 

[boogeyman]

i had exact same issue i cleaned the maf no dice checked all grounds no dice . changed both o2 sensors and boom car runs like a top. i had a 02 sensor heater code and since the sensors were not heating correctly they would read pig rich and cause car to run like crap till it warmed up. may not be exact same thing on your car but since u have same issue i did maybe i can help

 

[LongIslandSHO]

hey guys...
I had a chance to check the codes... None. Comes back clean. I am still totally confused as to what could be causing the issue. I'm asking here because I know one or two of you might have experienced this...

I cleaned the MAF - doesn't seem to have done much, if anything at all.

Again - here's the issue. If I go light on the throttle, no hard acceleration, etc, it runs fine... but if I push on it, or start off in 2nd gear (or accelerate hard in any gear for that matter) - it starts to sputter... doesn't stall - nothing like that... no surging... it just seems to run rough - then it levels off.. Also sounds like something clanging...

I thought if it were an electrical/vacuum/sensor issue (such as the O2), the car would throw a code... i'm baffled. I mean, I can go easy on her, and prevent the issue from happening, but what fun is an SHO without being able to merge into traffic or opening it up?

Thanks again...
Gregg

 

[jedhead]

FYI

Idle Reset

NOTE 1: The Ford owner's manual directs that the idle program be relearned following any service when the battery has been disconnected. To do this, it states that the engine should be started and allowed to idle for the (approximately) 70 seconds without touching the gas pedal. Adding the accessory loads ensures that the EEC and IAC valve can accommodate the additional air flow requirements and still maintain the programmed idle speed.

NOTE 2: It is preferable that the car be driven immediately after setting the idle programming. While driving, allow the coolant temperature to rise to the normal range and run the car through its entire performance range.

Idle Speed Program Reset Procedure
-----------------------------------------
1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
....Optionally, disconnect the keep alive memory (KAM) connector in the small
....wire also landed to the negative battery terminal.
2) Wait at least 30 seconds.
4) Reconnect the KAM connector or negative battery terminal.
5) Start engine normally (never press the gas pedal).
6) Allow the idle speed to settle for at least 30 seconds.
7) Within 70 seconds of starting the engine, concurrently apply all accessory loads.
....a) Climate control to MAX A/C.
....b) Headlight switch ON, brights ON.
....c) Turn steering wheel slowly ~1/4 turn side to side.
....d) Press brake pedal.
....e) ATX SHOs only: shifter to DRIVE.
8) Do not turn off engine for at least 5 minutes.

Bob

 

[jayro]

Can you tell what area of the engine the clacking is coming from? Do you have an automotive stethascope to help isolate it? If not you can use a screw driver put to your ear. If this problem was not there prior to you shiming the ac comp then what exact steps did you take while doing it. Im not sure what exactly your issue is, but I wold start there. When was the last time you checked/changed your plugs and plug wires? Are the wires secure at the coil and plugs?

 

[LongIslandSHO]

FYI

Idle Reset

NOTE 1: The Ford owner's manual directs that the idle program be relearned following any service when the battery has been disconnected. To do this, it states that the engine should be started and allowed to idle for the (approximately) 70 seconds without touching the gas pedal. Adding the accessory loads ensures that the EEC and IAC valve can accommodate the additional air flow requirements and still maintain the programmed idle speed.

NOTE 2: It is preferable that the car be driven immediately after setting the idle programming. While driving, allow the coolant temperature to rise to the normal range and run the car through its entire performance range.

Idle Speed Program Reset Procedure
-----------------------------------------
1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
....Optionally, disconnect the keep alive memory (KAM) connector in the small
....wire also landed to the negative battery terminal.
2) Wait at least 30 seconds.
4) Reconnect the KAM connector or negative battery terminal.
5) Start engine normally (never press the gas pedal).
6) Allow the idle speed to settle for at least 30 seconds.
7) Within 70 seconds of starting the engine, concurrently apply all accessory loads.
....a) Climate control to MAX A/C.
....b) Headlight switch ON, brights ON.
....c) Turn steering wheel slowly ~1/4 turn side to side.
....d) Press brake pedal.
....e) ATX SHOs only: shifter to DRIVE.
8) Do not turn off engine for at least 5 minutes.

Bob

Hi Bob.. I'll def give this a try, but I didn't think that was the issue because the car idles fine. It's not a surging or stalling issue, it's like a missing/studdering issue... but who knows, it could very well be this. I'll give it a shot... thanks!

Can you tell what area of the engine the clacking is coming from? Do you have an automotive stethascope to help isolate it? If not you can use a screw driver put to your ear. If this problem was not there prior to you shiming the ac comp then what exact steps did you take while doing it. Im not sure what exactly your issue is, but I wold start there. When was the last time you checked/changed your plugs and plug wires? Are the wires secure at the coil and plugs?

Jayro - I checked all the plug wires and wells... dry and the wires look/seem fine. The plugs were replaced about 8k ago (when I did the 60k) and the wires about 20k ago. The engine runs on all 6 cyl... at least according to the code reader. As far as the re-shimming of the a/c clutch - removed the battery and the tray... removed the clutch plate, re-shimmed, and reinstalled. Installed the battery and tray.

 

[LongIslandSHO]

One more thing - if I hadn't made this clear, this problem ONLY occurs when the car is in gear. At idle, in neutral, I can give the car as much gas as I want, and it doesn't studder/hesitate at all. This only happens when accelerating in gear, mostly 1st, 2nd, 3rd... so I can't use a stethoscope because I can't get the problem to occur in neutral.

 

[LongIslandSHO]

one more thing to add... perhaps i didn't explain the issue correctly... when accelerating only, and only when in gear (not revving at a stop) the car seems to backfire or something... it sounds like a "popping" noise... I wouldn't say backfire, because it doesn't come from the rear, it sounds like it's coming from under the car... but when it's making this "popping" noise, there is a noticeable loss of power, and the car kind of shudders.
Does this help anyone help me diagnose my issue? lol. I'm at a loss still.....

 

[jayro]

one more thing to add... perhaps i didn't explain the issue correctly... when accelerating only, and only when in gear (not revving at a stop) the car seems to backfire or something... it sounds like a "popping" noise... I wouldn't say backfire, because it doesn't come from the rear, it sounds like it's coming from under the car... but when it's making this "popping" noise, there is a noticeable loss of power, and the car kind of shudders.
Does this help anyone help me diagnose my issue? lol. I'm at a loss still.....

With out being there it is hard to say. What kind of plugs are you using? When you did your 60K was there oil in the plugwells? If so, it can really mess with the wires. Kinda weird that it only started happening after the battery was out though.

 

[LongIslandSHO]

With out being there it is hard to say. What kind of plugs are you using? When you did your 60K was there oil in the plugwells? If so, it can really mess with the wires. Kinda weird that it only started happening after the battery was out though.

Yah I gotcha... that's what doesn't make any sense to me either... that it only started happening after the battery was out. I really don't get it at all.

When I did the 60k, there was no oil in any of the wells... but I did replace all the plug seals, cover gaskets, etc... The plugs are Bosch platinum...

What really doesn't make any sense to me is that it ONLY does it when the car is being driven. I can rev the engine as much as I want at a standstill and I can not replicate the problem.. so it's nearly impossible for me to know where the noise is coming from..

 

[jayro]

The plugs are Bosch platinum...

That may be your issue. I have talked to a number of people that have had issues with bosch plugs. They dont seem to agree with our cars well at all. From the way you are discribing it, it sounds like a plug or plug wire issue. It probably only happens when the engine is under load. When mine needed a 60k ect (oil in the plug wells ect) it would rev fine when not under load, the second I was driving it the popping would start. I use autolite platnium and have never had any issues with them. Other people use the motorcraft ones with good luck.

Also, when changing the plugs make sure you get the wires routed correctly. Alot of manuals have the cylinder/coil pack routing labeled incorrectly. The correct order is listed here on the forum.