Crank Bolt Won't Thread In!!?? FIXED!!!!!

[rubydist]

that would be the proper way to use the puller.....

 

[firebat45]

You can use a triangle file to repair all sizes of threads. You don't need to file the threads away completely, just rest the edge of the triangle file in the groove of the thread, and file lightly in a spiral towards the tip.

 

[TimboSHO]

I used something like this, Tom

http://www.binbin.net/photos/sealey-power-tools/sea/sealey-harmonic-balance-puller-set-46pc.jpg

That long threaded rod (far left in the pic of the kit) threads into the crank snout (crank itself where the bolt would normally go). I used that to remove the damper pulley....and it threaded in and out just fine (even after removal of the pulley too--I checked it), so I know the threads "in the crank itself" are good. I know the sproket and damper don't have threads...sorry bad description I guess.

With that puller, you shouldn't be threading that rod into the crank, you need to put the 'centering point' piece on the end (as seen in the picture posted by TwistedMunky). Hopefully you didn't damage the crank by doing this, since the threads may be different sizes......

 

[Ishodu]

Some kits have a install tool as well as a puller this is what I was thinking off. I have used them before. There is a part that threads into the crank then you start the pulley on the shaft then use a nut with a bearing in it to install the pulley one this is done you remove the threaded part from the crank. This works with out hammering on it and causing any damage to anything. Does this sound like what you did?

 

[Off Road SHO]

Next time if you use that type of puller, leave the crank bolt in except for the last few threads; about a 1/2" ought to do it. That way the point of the tool pushes against the head of the crank bolt and not anywhere near the crank threads. The head on that tool is made for shafts that have a centering hole.

Tom

 

[JRA2000TL]

**** yeah I'm an idiot and used the puller wrong w/o the cener pt nose cone AND I threaded it all the way in the crank, used one like the pic above. I don't need to work on cars. I hope I didn't damage the crank; otherwise I might as well part it and crush it. On my way to the machine shop to fix this bolt and try. Ugh.

 

[93rev2sev]

It'll be fine. If the threaded rod still goes in there, the bolt will live. If you have any triangular files (get one for less than the machine shop will charge for saying hello) you can use it to file in those first 2 or three threads.

I don't think your usage of the puller caused this. I think the impact wrench that you used to pull the bolt caused this. When you pull a crank bolt with an impact, you have to stop before the bolt is all the way out or it will spin against those threads a hundred times before you can blink, collapsing the thread on the end.

Incidently, the same goes for lug nuts.

Don't feel bad, I've done both (used crank puller incorrectly AND over spun a crank bolt). I used a hacksaw blade in my gloved hand to reshape the ramp on the first thread...but a triangle file would work a hundred times better.

 

[SHOtime2511]

I believe TYSHO reported that a 1997 Toyota Camry 4 cyl crank bolt was a perfect match.
Toyota actually keeps parts for older cars in production unlike Ford.

 

[JRA2000TL]

The parts houses (both I went to) couldn't fix it today. One said their machine shop could tomorrow; the other told me I needed a thread chaser, which Sears has a set for $60 bucks. For this one time deal, I'm taking it to the machine shop tomorrow to try that.

I am worried now that I boogered the threads in the crank with that long threaded rod (didn't use it properly obviously). I didn't use the nose cone and just threaded the long rod into the crank, screwed the duck's foot into the pulley, and removed it that way.

The only threads in the crank that are possibly boogered are where the tool initially went in; as I said, the threaded rod from the kit screwed all the way in, so I think the threads were similar.

Now, if I did fark up the crankshaft threads, can I fix that with a helicoil or something? Don't tell me I need a new crank, please.

 

[KyngofPop]

Don't feel bad, did the same exact thing several years ago with my +. Got a machine shop to cleanup the bolt threads and crank threads and all was good. Still felt doofish haha.

 

[JRA2000TL]

You had the car towed to a machine shop to clean up the crank threads, then?

 

[gmail]

thats what i would recommend if you messed up the crank threads have a machine shop fix it.. if you mess it up further then it will need to be drilled at tapped.....

remember how much rides on the crank bolt... you should crank is down around 200 flt lbs... the book calls for 150 but i lock tight it and crank it to about 200 lbs...

im gonna do some research on that toyota crank bolt see if its the same.... if so i will have some slight relief knowing new bolts can be bought.. the one on a spare engine i got is a little beat and id like a new one...

now all i need to get is new main bearings.....


i have to agree it sucks ford cant keep anything in production... cant get a damn thing from them anymore..

 

[KyngofPop]

No, I did what I would never recommend anyone, I drove it to the shop. Everything was in place and I was gentle on her so there was minimal danger of the harmonic balancer flying off. Gotta do what ya gotta do. They cleaned up the threads on both, put the bolt on and torqued it to 200 ft. lbs. and I was back to 7000 rpms on the daily.

 

[Off Road SHO]

If the machine shop has a die to fix the threads on the bolt, maybe they also have a tap or thread chaser of the same size and pitch that you could borrow or rent to clean up the threads on the crank.

I could go out and measure a crank bolt for you in case you wanted to buy your own tap at a machine tool shop.

Tom

 

[gmail]

If the machine shop has a die to fix the threads on the bolt, maybe they also have a tap or thread chaser of the same size and pitch that you could borrow or rent to clean up the threads on the crank.

I could go out and measure a crank bolt for you in case you wanted to buy your own tap at a machine tool shop.

Tom

i vote take it to a machine shop... not to be a dick but if he messed the threads up by doing what he did chances are he probley shouldnt be touching a tap and die to fix his mistakes

 

[JRA2000TL]

Thanks Tom. Its an M14x1.5 bolt. I'll see what the machine shop can do with the bolt tomorrow and go from there. Yes to the above poster, I have never had to use a tap and die and don't want to. I already used the puller tool wrong, so I kinda want to be done with the expensive way of learning things on this job. Just want to get it back together now.

 

[St Louis SHO]

i vote take it to a machine shop... not to be a dick but if he messed the threads up by doing what he did chances are he probley shouldnt be touching a tap and die to fix his mistakes

Then why the **** even try to do a 60k?

 

[Off Road SHO]

GMAIL, I don't think you're being a dick about anything, I just happen to believe otherwise. I believe he should learn from this experience, not run to a machinist for something simple.

JRA, I'm proud of you and the fact that you tried. Threading and tapping is easy and every man should learn how to do it correctly. JMHO.

Tom

 

[SHOhopefull]

Hmm... A 14x1.5 should be an easy tap and die to find... And would a grade 8 bolt from Lowes or HD not work, or is it flanged?

 

[gmail]

Hmm... A 14x1.5 should be an easy tap and die to find... And would a grade 8 bolt from Lowes or HD not work, or is it flanged?

the bolt has a perment washer and is tapered into a cone-ish shape near the washer part... im not sure if this is important but personally i wouldnt change it