YB289A replacement AC clutch disc is different from the original..

[jimtash]

The Motorcraft clutch disc that I received is different from the old one on the compressor even though the part number is the one given. Will this work? I can't seem to find the number for the old disc as it keeps coming up with YB289A.





Looking at this Ebay listing though, this is what the clutch looks like on mine but it list it for the FS6 compressor. You guys think that the old compressor had the wrong clutch assembly on it all along? This is the same compressor that's been on the car since I owned it and it is a 10P15F.

231029040778

WTF, I'm confused here.

 

[rubydist]

the 'new' one looks correct. the 'old' one does not - I don't know from what it came, but it was not the correct SHO a/c clutch part.

 

[jimtash]

It's been on the car since I had it. And I recall from the maintenance records, the previous owner did have work done to the HVAC system at the dealership that included replacing the compressor.

Hey Ruby, I need some shims for the clutch to set the air gap and do you think these will work?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...N-iu6tdZ9pesh?itemIdentifier=946226_150104_0_

 

[rubydist]

no, those are for the FS10 (standard slo) compressor, even though it lists them for the SHO. there are two shims in there from the factory, one is only about .050" thick and the other is maybe .100" thick, iirc. it doesn't really matter how you get to the right air gap, so you can find any shims that fit on that shaft size and give you the right gap.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Well this explains why my crappy reman compressor died within a year. It had one like his old one as Jim has shown (the one stamped 3345). The NEW one he has is the one I have on the NOS compressor. That's the correct kind original from the factory, as stated. I had issues with my clutch not engaging when I had one that looked like his old beat up looking one. I guarantee you that the material on that other one is not strong enough to make a good contact, caused slippage, overheated the clutch and the shaft seal, and caused it to leak.

 

[jimtash]

Actually the compressor has lasted as long as I've owned the car. But looking at the size of the old pulley with the new, I can see why the bigger one is used to keep the compressor from spinning itself into burnout. And it shouldn't feel like it's sapping so much power when engaged.

Just need to find the manifold o-rings and I can piece it back together. Any ideas guys? A Ford part number or even a part number period would help.

I found these on Ebay and maybe they might work. For 5 bucks it's a gamble.

161074837867

 

[JRA2000TL]

Those look like them. Jim, I think I was wrong on the PM I sent you. The ones I pulled out were squared off on the edges due to the molding of the manifold and them being smashed in there to seal. The replacement Ford OEM ones were red and rounded on the edge like that. Here's a photo I found on my phone. I'd try for those, they look correct.

 

[jimtash]

Cool. See what happens when they get here. Thanks.

 

[rubydist]

yes, they start out as o-rings but with time begin to look like they were square-rings.

 

[tompumped]

I bought an ac o ring kit online that had the correct o rings. If you need the part number i'll look for it. They weren't red like the originals though.

In the FSM it says to put thread sealant on the bolts. I had a very small leak and i'm not sure if the new o rings or sealant fixed it. It leaked oil onto the lower radiator hose.

 

[jimtash]

I didn't put sealant on the bolts but it's not a big deal to go back and do it one at a time. The system is still discharged.

 

[tompumped]

I can't remember if the manual said all the bolts needed it or just certain ones.

Either way i'd do it, but i'd make it a point if I was refilling the system with r12.

 

[jimtash]

Don't know what difference it makes. The bolt holes in the compressor aren't open to anything.

 

[rubydist]

I see no point in sealant on the bolts. never-seize if you live in the rust belt, maybe, but the threads don't need sealant.