Would doing this do any good during an oil change?

[Machspeed]

I was thinking about while changing my oil, after all the old oil drains out, get a extra quart of oil and let it drain through the engine. Would this help rinse it out at all or am i wasting my time/oil?

 

[sdpatt]

You will waste more good oil than you will help scavange the old stuff. The flush oil would travel through the fill hole, flow over a few inches to the drain hole at the corner by the #4 cylinder, down to the front of the pan then across the bottom of the pan to teh drain hole. You would only scavange a small trail of old oil. Just replace the inventory every 3,000 miles or so and your engine will be well cared for.

 

[rangerj]

FOR SHO,

You get more of the crud out when you drain the oil while it is hot. Let the engine cool down 10 or 15 minutes. The oil will still be hot so be careful.

As SDPATT says change the oil regularly at about 3000 miles, and change the oil filter every oil change. Use a quality oil filter, and quality oil. Castrol, Valvoline, and Penzoil are quality products. Quaker State has a high parafin (wax) content and is not recommended.

Do the above consistently and you will have a long lasting, clean engine (inside). SDPATT is the "proof positive" of this. His SHO has about 300,000 miles on it and I do not think the heads have ever been off of it. He changed hid rod bearings after more than 250,000 miles.

You could not ask for better proof than that. He uses Castrol oil and Motorcraft filters, right SDPatt. rangerj

 

[Blue-By-U]

As a precaution, I wear heat resistant gloves when I change my hot oil. I'm sure you already do this, but cover your starter with a plastic bag.

 

[Machspeed]

Good stuff, ya i know about the hot oil.

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

So Im listening to Click and Clack a couple of summers ago and I hear a guy call in to ask about his changing procedure. It seems this fellow would start the engine after draining and let it get that last bit of oil out. Tom and Ray asked if he belonged to the engine of the month club. Well apparently he had been doing this for nearly 100,000 miles. I wouldnt recommend it. Ever see how clean you oil is after changing it? I find it hard to check the level on the stick it is so clean. The few tablespoons that may be in there are of no consequence. Probably only represents a 1/10 of a % of what was in there.

 

[KyngofPop]

F-22 Raptor SHO:
So Im listening to Click and Clack a couple of summers ago and I hear a guy call in to ask about his changing procedure. It seems this fellow would start the engine after draining and let it get that last bit of oil out. Tom and Ray asked if he belonged to the engine of the month club. Well apparently he had been doing this for nearly 100,000 miles. I wouldnt recommend it. Ever see how clean you oil is after changing it? I find it hard to check the level on the stick it is so clean. The few tablespoons that may be in there are of no consequence. Probably only represents a 1/10 of a % of what was in there.

My mom used to do something similar that to her 85 Chevrolet Caprice Classic with the 5.0 litre V8. She would sorta turn the starter over maybe twice without actually letting it catch. She got 450,000 eek! miles out of it before it finally jumped timing. Not saying that I reccomend this or condone this for modern cars, but shrug it didn't hurt that heavy chevy.

<small>[ January 22, 2004, 12:47 PM: Message edited by: SHOmyWS6/Merkur ]</small>

 

[Mike Kopstain]

The best thing to do when changing your oil is to put the gas pedal to the floor and crank the motor for a couple moments before letting it catch.

Putting the gas pedal to the floor diables the injectors.

 

[Lurch]

Out of curiosity, is the drain plug on the front or back of the pan? I ask because I am going to buy some of those Rhino wheel ramps so I can change my own oil, and so I can see what's under the car... anyhow, if the plug is on the front then some of the oil wouldn't drain out with the car on ramps. So... front or back?

And yes, I know that I'm a wuss for having the car for 18 months and still not changing the oil myself. It has been changed regularly, just at the Castrol place down the street and not my garage. My dad (who actually owns the car) tends to think that I will break it simply because he knows nothing about front-wheel drivetrains or modern engines (DOHC, fuel injection, O2 sensors, etc.) therefore I don't really have a chance to work on it much (at all). But after months of prodding and insisting that I have a vast understanding of the workings of the top end of the motor (of course here I am referring to the vast collective understanding of the SHOforums) I believe I have him convinced that I can do the valve gapping procedure in the spring. Which reminds me that I need to PM sdpatt and get his write ups for the 60k stuff. I have his parts list, but I hear his documentation for the procedure is excellent.

What a ramble. So is the drain plug in the front or back of the oil pan?

Thanks.

 

[rangerj]

Why on earth would anyone crank an engine with no oil in it? What could you possibly hope to accomplish?

The modern oils have detergents and additives that will suspend the crap and crud so it leaves the engine when you drain the oil. Plus the gasoline mixtures are different. You no longer have lead in the gas and a lot less sulphor.

30 years ago you would have to scrape the crud out of the engine. That has not been the case for many years.

If you change oil regularly, and change the filter, you will not have to worry about a clean engine. That is providing you use a quality oil and filter.

Please DO NOT crank an engine that has been drained of its oil!

Lurch,
Your drain plug is in the back side of the pan.
rangerj

 

[Rockledge]

Personally, I'm not a fan of any kind of oil change method that involves cranking the engine when there's no oil in the pan. I agree with the others who say that using a quality oil and changing it regularly is the best way to keep those few left-over tablespoons of dirty oil in check. wink

And if you want to "kick it up a notch", then drop a bottle of Auto-Rx in your crankcase (change the filter too) about 1000 miles prior to doing a full-blown oil/filter change...


Lurch, tell your Pop that the entire SHOForum insists that he let you change the oil in his SHO (we're behind you all the way )!

 

[Lurch]

Rockledge:
Lurch, tell your Pop that the entire SHOForum insists that he let you change the oil in his SHO (we're behind you all the way )!

Not so much the oil change I'm concerned with (I mean, c'mon), just a matter of getting the car raised a few inches, but if I botch the valve job (or more specifically the reassembly after the valve job) I won't hear the end of it.