Working on intermitent hard shift have reviewed posts

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reedssho

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I recently got a 93 3.0 MTX- 90k w/ 60k maintenance complete- Original (for now) Runs GREAT! Bought just before winter and just started driving again. I've read all the posts on hard shift problems and completed the following- used clutch pedal adjuster- got it to click. Changed trans fluid (got out 3 quarts). (BTW- had shifter and mechanism checked when I bought it at a Trans. shop and was told Manual trans fluid never had to be changed cause it doesn't heat up like auto!). Problem is worst going into first or reverse. It will shift smooth as butter one time, and be almost impossible to get into first or reverse the next (or somewhere in between). When it is hard to get into gear it will grind, but otherwise there seems to be plenty of clutch. Doesn't seem to relate to hot or cold weather or whether it's warmed up or cold, and nearly every time it's different. I'm not a true mechanic, but handy, and currently have no garage (Mother in law there instead). Is there any other external linkage or bushing that might be worn in the shifter etc. Probably just hopeful thinking, my best guess is worn TOB thats in a different position every shift. Should I start preparing for Clutch, TOB etc.? This is a great forum, if that's the case i'll start reading up.
 

bubba

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I'm no MtTX guy, but I think the sencro(sp)? is going out! My friend Eric Vervalin on the forum has something like this in 2nd gear. I could be wrong though
 

rubydist

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Reverse does not have a syncro, so to avoid grinding one should shift into a forward gear first, then into reverse.

Going into first is hard from a stop only, or while moving? Typically, going into first can be harder once the syncros start to wear, because the output shaft isn't moving while you are at a stop, so the syncro must move the input shaft to get the gear teeth to line up to allow you to shift into gear. If you push in the clutch, and wait 2+ seconds before attempting to engage the gear, the input shaft will already have stopped turning, so the blocking ring won't be able to do its job - and if the teeth happen to line up, then it goes in smoothly, and if the teeth don't happen to line up then it won't want to engage.

The solution is to push the clutch in and quickly start to engage first gear. This will allow the syncro to orient the input shaft properly as it stops, so that the gear will engage.
 

reedssho

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Happens both when stopped or while still rolling- I've tried shifting to first just before complete stop and it doesn't help. I will try shifting into gear more quickly after engaging clutch- I have been more apt to pause after pushing in clutch before shifting, I assume if shifting sooner helps it's still a temp. fix. I'll try tonight and update post. Syncro problems concern me as I hear they are hard to find, and if I did clutch and TOB only it might not solve the problem. Frustrating because sometimes it shifts so well! Thanks for the help
 

Mr Anonymous

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I had this issue on my '92 and it turned out to be a combination of a worn blocking ring on the 1/2 synchro that was exacerbated by a stretched clutch cable. Replacing the clutch cable eliminated 90% of the problem, and for the other 10% I just got into the habit of shifting in and out of 1st before coming to a complete stop.
 

reedssho

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I've spent days researching this and you helped me solve the problem in minutes. Don't fully understand why but shifting right after engaging clutch really helps. Now for the more permanent solution. My car is original so a 'stretched' clutch cable is possible, but I'm not sure if it would create the 'intermittent' part of the problem. Is it expensive to replace (or much trouble)? Otherwise, do I need to start shopping for syncro's which I understand I should do as soon as possible even if i don't use them right away. I'm sure i can research the cable replacement in other threads.
 

93rev2sev

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If you plan on keeping you SHO on the road for a looong time...it would behoove you to get a 1-2 synchro for a rainy day. Since you already need one...get 2.
 

shobote

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MTX is also sensitive to the type of fluid; regular Valvoline or Valvoline Max life seems to be well regarded, while some others will not work well and MTX is hard to shift, or work for a while and then get worse. What fluid did you use ?
 

reedssho

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Valvoline Dex/Merc ATX seemed to be most suggested so that is what I used. It has to be better than the original fluid that was in it!
 
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