fa SHO
New Member
the only question i have right now. does pin 54 need a signal or to be grounded in order to run? the WOT AC cutout
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wiring in a 3.0....need help
- Thread starter fa SHO
- Start date
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Off Road SHO
Moderator
I believe not. Pin 54 WOT AC Cutout in not detailed on the Engine Control sheets of the EVTM, for either the 3.0 or 3.2. Which leads me to believe it has nothing to do with the running of the engine. It only controls the activation of the AC clutch, nothing more.
Do you have a good digital Volt Ohm Meter? If yes, set it to read 12 volts DC, clamp the DVOM's black lead to the negative post of the battery. The next part involves looking for 12 volts at just one of the injectors. I taped up all but the first and last 1/4" of an icepick and used the point to pierce the insulation of the red wire of any injector. With the Ignition key in the run position, you should have 12 volts on all red wires. If you find it on one, more than likely you have it on all since all read wires are spliced together.
After you have determined that your injectors are getting 12 volts from the ignition switch, you need to determine if they are getting "ground" pulses from the PCM. For this you need a wink light or noid light. It is an incandescent or LED light that hardly uses any current (or ground) to light up. One end of the Noid attaches to the Positive side of the battery and the other end attaches to your taped up ice pick, only this time, while someone is cranking over the engine, you will pierce the non-red wire of any injector. If the inject is being told to fire by the PCM, the Noid will flash. If the PCM is not sending the ground pulses, the Noid will not light.
I've seen old stuck injectors freed up by intermittent "grounds" fed by a test light point.
Tom
Do you have a good digital Volt Ohm Meter? If yes, set it to read 12 volts DC, clamp the DVOM's black lead to the negative post of the battery. The next part involves looking for 12 volts at just one of the injectors. I taped up all but the first and last 1/4" of an icepick and used the point to pierce the insulation of the red wire of any injector. With the Ignition key in the run position, you should have 12 volts on all red wires. If you find it on one, more than likely you have it on all since all read wires are spliced together.
After you have determined that your injectors are getting 12 volts from the ignition switch, you need to determine if they are getting "ground" pulses from the PCM. For this you need a wink light or noid light. It is an incandescent or LED light that hardly uses any current (or ground) to light up. One end of the Noid attaches to the Positive side of the battery and the other end attaches to your taped up ice pick, only this time, while someone is cranking over the engine, you will pierce the non-red wire of any injector. If the inject is being told to fire by the PCM, the Noid will flash. If the PCM is not sending the ground pulses, the Noid will not light.
I've seen old stuck injectors freed up by intermittent "grounds" fed by a test light point.
Tom
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fa SHO
New Member
ok so....i installed a air temp sensor, coolant temp, and maf
i currently have pin 30 (starter switch) fed straight into pin 46
besides verifying if the ecu is grounding the injectors, is there anything that im missing or doing wrong here?
i currently have pin 30 (starter switch) fed straight into pin 46
besides verifying if the ecu is grounding the injectors, is there anything that im missing or doing wrong here?
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I will look at wiring diagrams and see if can answer your question. Do you know fuel pressure? I assume all screws in the dis module. I remember reading somewhere certain screws ground it. Maurice
http://www.yunost.ru/docs/Chilton-Ford/by-parts/06-chassis electrical/WIRING DIAGRAMS/86876525.pdf
Pin 5 exterior lights??
I agree on clutch pedal wire except maybe there should be other wiring to pin 46 also.
I looked at this wiring diagram and printed and traced the power wires.
I would check all for power
red/lt green from ignition feeds the following items. ICM, noise capacitor, camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor, Ignition control module and ignition coil.
Hot all the time feeds the icm at several places.
Hot all the time [yellow wire] feeds icm and pin 1 computer
20,40,60 are grounds.
Unsure if that helps. Maurice
Found a better wiring diagram.
http://taurus-club.ru/manuals/Ford_Taurus_1991_wiring.pdf page 27
Shows pin 5 as boo switch. Like you mention
Here is link with sensors explain. Looks like boo is used for auto use on lockup. Shows in diagram that is only hot when brake switch is closed [brake lights on]. So I assume need no wire to it all. Unsure what it's use in the 3.0 since it is manual trans engine.
This is the site I used to wire my 94 3.2. I found it by just changing link from 1994 to 1991. Maurice
http://www.yunost.ru/docs/Chilton-Ford/by-parts/06-chassis electrical/WIRING DIAGRAMS/86876525.pdf
Pin 5 exterior lights??
I agree on clutch pedal wire except maybe there should be other wiring to pin 46 also.
I looked at this wiring diagram and printed and traced the power wires.
I would check all for power
red/lt green from ignition feeds the following items. ICM, noise capacitor, camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor, Ignition control module and ignition coil.
Hot all the time feeds the icm at several places.
Hot all the time [yellow wire] feeds icm and pin 1 computer
20,40,60 are grounds.
Unsure if that helps. Maurice
Found a better wiring diagram.
http://taurus-club.ru/manuals/Ford_Taurus_1991_wiring.pdf page 27
Shows pin 5 as boo switch. Like you mention
Here is link with sensors explain. Looks like boo is used for auto use on lockup. Shows in diagram that is only hot when brake switch is closed [brake lights on]. So I assume need no wire to it all. Unsure what it's use in the 3.0 since it is manual trans engine.
This is the site I used to wire my 94 3.2. I found it by just changing link from 1994 to 1991. Maurice
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fa SHO
New Member
thanks for the help once again. this is a bit frustrating.....
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fa SHO
New Member
maurice thanks for all the links and diagrams.
i have 6.xx volts at pin 5 on the ccrm when the car is on. links to fuel pump monitor on ecu 19. do i need to tie this into anything? does the ecu need to think the fuel pump is on in order to ground the injectors?
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verified that i have 12v at the injectors when the car is on...........verified with a test light that the ecu is not grounding the injectors when im cranking on her....
i have 6.xx volts at pin 5 on the ccrm when the car is on. links to fuel pump monitor on ecu 19. do i need to tie this into anything? does the ecu need to think the fuel pump is on in order to ground the injectors?
edit:
verified that i have 12v at the injectors when the car is on...........verified with a test light that the ecu is not grounding the injectors when im cranking on her....
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fa SHO
New Member
well ive spent a good chunk of time lookin at these diagrams. i really cant figure out why the ecu is not grounding the injectors. everything is there. 12volts is in all the right places afaik.
is it possible the ecu is bad?
is it possible the ecu is bad?
Thinking out loud. So be easy and take with grain of thought. You said all 3 grounds of computer good 20, 40 ,60. Now for stepping out on limb. I know on my 2.3 turbo [running a EEC-IV] A wide open throttle will shut off injectors so it gets that info from tps. So may want to check that and wiring to computer. I use to have a site of how to do a check of the eec-iv will try to find it. Maurice
I done a net search. What I found was one site problem was a short in a sensor making it loose the 5v ref signal. Here is link of how to and where to test for the 12vdc and the 5vdc. Last 2 pages of this link.
http://www.rothfam.com/svo/reference/sensors.pdf
I done a net search. What I found was one site problem was a short in a sensor making it loose the 5v ref signal. Here is link of how to and where to test for the 12vdc and the 5vdc. Last 2 pages of this link.
http://www.rothfam.com/svo/reference/sensors.pdf
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fa SHO
New Member
good thinking..... it definitely doesnt hurt to double check
i have 12v on -
iac
imrc
maf
both o2 sensors
all injectors
all ignition red/green wires
tested reference voltage everywhere except the knock sensor (have intake back on). for testing i pulled the plugs off the sensors.
rear o2 4.5v ref
front o2 0v
tps 5v
map 5v
egr connection? 5v
ect 4.62 (3.6x while still hooked up)
iat 4.62
im actually showing .2 volts on the black/white signal return when the car is powered on
i also found a spout type looking connector with 9v coming in to one side (y/g on 9v, bk/w on other)....its located between the map sensor wire and a larger junction of wires on the harness that runs behind the engine.... there is no jumper in it. there is two more spout type connectors, one by the ccrm, one by the cam sensor, both of them with a jumper in it
i have 12v on -
iac
imrc
maf
both o2 sensors
all injectors
all ignition red/green wires
tested reference voltage everywhere except the knock sensor (have intake back on). for testing i pulled the plugs off the sensors.
rear o2 4.5v ref
front o2 0v
tps 5v
map 5v
egr connection? 5v
ect 4.62 (3.6x while still hooked up)
iat 4.62
im actually showing .2 volts on the black/white signal return when the car is powered on
i also found a spout type looking connector with 9v coming in to one side (y/g on 9v, bk/w on other)....its located between the map sensor wire and a larger junction of wires on the harness that runs behind the engine.... there is no jumper in it. there is two more spout type connectors, one by the ccrm, one by the cam sensor, both of them with a jumper in it
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fa SHO
New Member
i got it to run today!!! im a little disappointed but glad it started.
i bought a cheap donor car and swapped ecu out.....and it would not run on the ecu i originally had
so i put the good ecu in my mx6, it did run a couple of times if i idled it with my foot, but it gave me a **** of a time trying to start it up. once i plugged the new ecu in i could smell fuel. it backfired a lot...... sometimes even out of the intake, but it sounded like it was running on only 4-5 cylinders. it would stall soon after i no longer idled it with my foot. im not sure what else is bad with these sensors, plugs and wires, but everything from my parts car seemed to be in decent working condition. so it looks like ill be swapping most of that over
oh the joys.....lol
i bought a cheap donor car and swapped ecu out.....and it would not run on the ecu i originally had
so i put the good ecu in my mx6, it did run a couple of times if i idled it with my foot, but it gave me a **** of a time trying to start it up. once i plugged the new ecu in i could smell fuel. it backfired a lot...... sometimes even out of the intake, but it sounded like it was running on only 4-5 cylinders. it would stall soon after i no longer idled it with my foot. im not sure what else is bad with these sensors, plugs and wires, but everything from my parts car seemed to be in decent working condition. so it looks like ill be swapping most of that over
oh the joys.....lol
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kevinspann
Don't take my advice.
Sounds like your have some bad grounds. Do you still have the factory EEC test connector from the SHO harness? See if you can get some codes out of it that may help get you in the right direction.
fa SHO
New Member
hmm ....do the codes flash through a cel?
the intake manifold is grounded with solid grounds in several spots. so is the block and tranny.
i swapped the cam sensor, dis and injectors today with no luck. the car actually starts and runs better tho. especially if i give it a vacuum leak
verified on the new ecu i have reference voltage at both o2 sensors. also have 12v. so the o2s are working now
right now im looking at plugs/wires, crank sensor, ign coils. i dont which is more likely?
the intake manifold is grounded with solid grounds in several spots. so is the block and tranny.
i swapped the cam sensor, dis and injectors today with no luck. the car actually starts and runs better tho. especially if i give it a vacuum leak
verified on the new ecu i have reference voltage at both o2 sensors. also have 12v. so the o2s are working now
right now im looking at plugs/wires, crank sensor, ign coils. i dont which is more likely?
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fa SHO
New Member
agh im an idiot
had the plug wires going
6 1
5 2
4 3
when it should have been
5 1
6 2
4 3
thank you all very much for the support and help. she runs and runs well!!
had the plug wires going
6 1
5 2
4 3
when it should have been
5 1
6 2
4 3
thank you all very much for the support and help. she runs and runs well!!
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