Wierd SHO Behavior

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

voogru

SHO Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2004
Messages
285
Reaction score
2
Location
Miami, FL
Hi,

I've been having a few oddball issues with my car and was wondering if anyone has any idea what they could be.

1. There has been a blatant "clicking/ticking" noise coming from the engine bay by the passenger side. It sounds like 3-4 marbles in a plastic jar. This clicking is occasionally at idle up to 2100-2200 RPM, and then it goes away completely, only to come back once I go under 2000 RPM. The cars power doesnt seem to be affected by it and there are no engine codes being thrown.

2. Something is up with my idling, occasionally when I'm in drive and I go to idle, it idles at 1500 RPM. If I switch it to neutral it drops back to 750-800 RPM.

If I rev it up, it will then settle at 1500RPM and stay there until I switch it to drive.

3. Just recently it appears to be losing a cylinder at low RPM, at idle it sounds like shit and once it revs up it sounds okay, seems the magic number seems to be around 3k, but this just happened and im not sure whats going on.

It's a 1993 ATX, stock.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks
 

voogru

SHO Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2004
Messages
285
Reaction score
2
Location
Miami, FL
What kind of recent maintenance has been done to it?

Just oil changes.

Last maintainance was a while ago, new water pump, new o2 sensors, new exhaust, new timing belt, and all of the upper seals were replaced (valve cover gaskets, spark plug well gaskets, etc)
 

tgsho

Registered
Joined
Jan 13, 2007
Messages
189
Reaction score
17
Location
Vancouver, B.C.
the marbles in the jar could sound like a waterpump... even though it has been replaced (a while ago) one of my waterpumps is making the same noise. And it does go away too, depending on what the RPMs are at. Sometimes on start up, a slight squeel is heard, then the "marbles"
 

SHOMON

95 MTX
Joined
Aug 15, 2006
Messages
691
Reaction score
141
Location
MEDWAY MASS.
Strange Sound

Don't Rule Out Your Timing Belt Tensioner. The Noise Could Be The Belt Slapping The Cover. First To Rule Out The Waterpump Pull Off
The Serp. Belt Start The Car And Don't Let It Run To Long. Is The Noise Gone? If So Maybe Water Pump Or Idler Pullies. Second While The Belt Is Off Pull Your Upper Timing Cover Is The Belt Tight?start The Car Again Is The Belt Sloppy? If So Then It Is Most Likely The T.belt Tensioner List $158 From Ford. I Just Replaced Mine Pretty Simple Once You Get The Car Apart. Also Don't Buy A "used" One. Over Time The Seal That Holds The Fluid In There Gets Hard And It Leaks Out. Trust Me 3 Used Ones $80 Wasted.lesson Learned!
 

93rev2sev

SHO Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2004
Messages
6,461
Reaction score
1,825
Location
Hockeytown
He'll check the timing belt when he takes care of the crank cancer.

Edit: yes I am trying to be a smart alic....however...it's actually easier to check for crank cancer...and you will be able to check the tensioner at the same time. Your method will not allow this.

Edit Edit...Really...I don't recomend following SHOMONS procedure. All you have to do to know for SURE is:
Jack up car - support with jackstands 2.5 minutes
Remove Passenger tire 2.5 minutes
Remove inner fender lining 5 minutes
Remove serpintine belt 2 minutes
Remove crank pully 3 minutes for bolt, 7 minutes to set up and utilize crank pully puller 10 minutes(at most)
Remove lower timing cover 5 minutes
Inspect crank pully, key, and keyway 3 minutes .
30 minutes* Reassemble 1 hour(including time to clean parts).

This procedure will give you a VERY good overall view of the engines condition. You will be able to see the front seal, the front oilpan seal, the crank sensor and more. Every Gen 1 or Gen 2 SHO owner should do this within a day or 2 of purchasing. Especially new ATX owners.


* plus "fartin around time". This includes looking for that darn 8mm socket and wrestling with the inner fenderwell before realizing the lower ground effects need to be unbolted in front.
 
Last edited:

Racer X

SHO Pilot, Retired
Joined
Oct 27, 2002
Messages
3,446
Reaction score
1,572
Location
Connecticut
I'll save you some time on the crank cancer diagnosis.

Pull your timing cover. Is the belt tight?

No - Check your tensioner for proper tension, and that it's not broken. If it is, replace as necessary.
Yes - Read on...

Check for "rust dust". It's there a rust colored dust on everything?
Yes - Crank cancer. Sorry man.
No - Read on...

Remove the middle timing cover, and reassemble everything. Start the engine, and using a mechanic's stethescope, probe your accessories and idler pullies until you pinpoint the noise.

Other things to check for would be loose nuts and bolts on all the pullies. It's rare, but still something to check for.
 

Devin

3.Slow
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2003
Messages
3,542
Reaction score
932
Location
Pacific Northwest
Just a note, my Topaz had an issue with erratic idle issues as well. When it wasn't all bad it would rev too high and pull in drive harder than it should with no throttle pressure. Eventually it would start to rev really high in drive and got pretty bad in neutral. It was all caused by the IAC valve. You can try cleaning it with brake cleaner but really the only thing that helped me was replacing it with a junk yard piece.

When you take it off the piece on the inside should not rotate with finger pressure and it should be clean. The first one in my Topaz was so bad the little plastic gear was broken and would freely rotate when it turned it with my finger.
 

Racer X

SHO Pilot, Retired
Joined
Oct 27, 2002
Messages
3,446
Reaction score
1,572
Location
Connecticut
Just a note, my Topaz had an issue with erratic idle issues as well. When it wasn't all bad it would rev too high and pull in drive harder than it should with no throttle pressure. Eventually it would start to rev really high in drive and got pretty bad in neutral. It was all caused by the IAC valve. You can try cleaning it with brake cleaner but really the only thing that helped me was replacing it with a junk yard piece.

When you take it off the piece on the inside should not rotate with finger pressure and it should be clean. The first one in my Topaz was so bad the little plastic gear was broken and would freely rotate when it turned it with my finger.
FYI, brake and carb cleaner will ruin a Idle Air Bypass valve on the SHO.
 

voogru

SHO Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2004
Messages
285
Reaction score
2
Location
Miami, FL
I'm gonna look into the suggestions this weekend and will post the results.

Thanks for the help so far :)
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,077
Messages
1,181,196
Members
16,142
Latest member
Kaevorlly

Members online

Back
Top