It only shifts when the clutch right to the floor, and then it still doesn't go into gear easy. it seems like there is some resistence going into gear (all gears) is this typical to the 89's or am i looking at a clutch??
Wierd shiffting
- Thread starter x-tream
- Start date
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Ishodu
SHO Member
Try lifting up on the clutch pedal first too see if there is any slack in the cable, But it could be the TOB binding up and not releasing the clutch all the way.
BlankDisk
New Member
The first SHO I ever drove was an 89 and had the same problem. I had to strain my back to get the pedal down far enough, and like you said, it still didn't go in easy. Also, Reverse was nearly impossible to get into, but that's fairly common in all Fords from that era (I know from expreience). The owner said that he thought the clutch was going, but it seemed fine to me. I test clutches by holding the brake, and then just letting the clutch go and letting it stall. The longer it takes to stall, the worse your clutch is. But I also agree with the above post, it probably just needs an adjustment.
NoFlipping
New Member
Mine did the same thing. During a recent rear main/carrier seal replacement to cure a BIG leak, I figured for the price of the parts I might as well get a new clutch installed. Glad I did. The TOB was absolutely shot and the pressure plate was missing a few finger tips. The clutch surface itself was fine - it hadn't been slipping at all. But as mentioned above, shifting was tough, reverse was an occational bitch, and the pedal action as all the way to the floor and HARD. After the clutch job, it the trans shifted like my wife's first CRX Si - smooth, effortless, no more notchiness. Also, for whatever reason the car's ride smoothed out A TON after having the subframe off and reset.
I'd also suggest during a clutch job to change the trans fluid, as you can pour it out completely w/o having to drill any holes in the case.
As an aside, the rear main leak turned out to completely be the carrier seal. It was improperly installed at the factory, missing one of the bolt holes ENTIRELY. I guess after 45K miles that part of the seam had shifted just enough to finally start leaking like a sieve.
I'd also suggest during a clutch job to change the trans fluid, as you can pour it out completely w/o having to drill any holes in the case.
As an aside, the rear main leak turned out to completely be the carrier seal. It was improperly installed at the factory, missing one of the bolt holes ENTIRELY. I guess after 45K miles that part of the seam had shifted just enough to finally start leaking like a sieve.
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