Whole slew of questions - 95 MTX

[mlatten]

I think I may have read every post on this site! So, I was wondering if you guys could help me on a few things. Here goes nothing.

What is the best way to clean the MAF? I've wiped it out a few times, but have no idea what I should use on the sensor itself, if anything.

Is the steering on a 95 MTX supposed to be a little stiffer than on a 95 ATX, or is my VAPS just screwy?

You know that black plastic piece that holds the headlights and top of the front bumper cover? Is it the same part in a regular Taurus/Sable? Hoping to save a few bucks at the bone yard.

Does anyone have dimensions for the engine bay? I know mine was hit before I rebuilt it, but no matter where I adjust the hood it won't close right. Anything appreciated.

Are the two bolt holes on the front of the transmission (side facing the headlights) just generic for that housing, or am I missing something? The holes look almost new, so I suspect something was removed.

Lastly, and most importantly, I believe I have a rear mount issue. Before I go and spend the $180, I was hoping to get your guys insight. As farfetched as it sounds I think - really - that both mounts are actually broken - here's why. If I bang into reverse, the whole engine bucks like crazy, almost hitting the closed hood. But it jumps forward and backward, which makes me think that something else is causing it - if it was just the mount, it would stay in the direction of the pressure being applied, right? But here is what I think is happening. With both mounts failed, I think the engine is moving SO much, that it is pulling away from the clutch pedal enough to disengage the fork, relieving the pressure, dropping back an inch or two, reapplying the clutch, pushing up, and repeating. Does that sound possible, or am I doomed to waste $250 on reinforced mounts?

I really thank everyone who says anything at all. These are all just things that I've let build up that I want to resolve.

Cheers, Matt

 

[LJRuddy]

I have always used plain old carb/choke cleaner to clean my MAF out... Same thing i use to clean anything off of the engine...

I have owned both an MTX and an ATX and the steering on both have been the same. Maybe it was colder out when you drove the MTX?

I have heard of both mounts being broken at once. If your engine is bounching around as much as you say it is, i would get that checked out ASAP before you snap an A/C line or worse.

Dont know much about the other thigs but i know someone else on these forums does. Hope this helped a little!

 

[SHO Continental]

the header panel is not the same for taurus and SHO, although it's the same on a sable.

and your whole sceme about the engine jumping away from the clutch is all wrong.. the transmission is bolted to the engine so the whole thing moves as one.

 

[mlatten]

thanks for the quick responses guys, really appreciate it.

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

Firstly welcome to the forum. We are a good bunch of wrench turners and addicted to all that is SHO.

Clarification on your MAF situation: You would carefully remove the black cover off the maf and clean the 2 filaments you see attached. Use electronic contact cleaner.

The 2 generic bolt holes on your tranny near the front are used to hold a very big piece of steel whose only purpose that we can see is to keep the wire harness from getting tangled up in the clutch cable and fork arm. It is often not replaced after a tranny is installed. No harm if you have the harness out of the way.

The money for the extreme mounts is never a waste...you will never have to buy mounts again and enjoy the solid feel of a motor that is anchored like a cruise ship on a sand bar.

 

[mlatten]

Fantastic!

 

[Eliw]

Off topic but what part of NY are you in?

 

[windsormw]

well , i may get some flack for this

but , i'f motor mounts are on the menu ........I have never seen or tryed the X- mounts . But when i did my clutch , i seen the worn mounts and acted .........Yup , boxed em in with flat bar and welded em *ock stiff

When i was presneted with the problem of removing old rubber , I never did . Just burned away the rubber where I had to weld . It also took alot of work out setting the 2 pcs.

that was 6 months ago .............no problems yet


sounds & feels like a stock car when she fires

just my .02

 

[mlatten]

Suffolk, LI.

So the bucking problem could definitely be the mounts then? Cool. Thanx.

 

[Eliw]

Its nice to meet fellow NY SHO's. My car has the same bucking problem. I plan on changing the rear engine mount with an extreme one like the one I replaced the front one with.

 

[mlatten]

Cool, so I'm not in this boat alone. I've replaced just about everything in this car myself (bought it practically out of a junk yard), but my father still thinks I don't know what I'm talking about. I'm at SUNY Stony Brook now for mech. engineering, you'd think he would assume I know a motor mount problem when I see one. Geez!
And yes, it's good to know you're here Eliw.
Cheers.

 

[Eliw]

CHeers to you! I wish I could do mech engineering. I would have no problems fixing up the 89. Go Stony Brook!

 

[yamahaSHO]

Clarification on your MAF situation: You would carefully remove the black cover off the maf and clean the 2 filaments you see attached. Use electronic contact cleaner.

Mike, there's no need to remove the sensor element. Turn the MAF on its side and use electric contact cleaner or the like.

 

[mlatten]

Er...At Raptor's suggestion, I went to Sears and bought a set of Torx drivers, yeah, the ones with the pin in the middle - pain to find - and did as he said. I've noticed a little difference in drivability, it's got a little more pickup it seems - they were filthy!!! So thank you!

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

Mike, there's no need to remove the sensor element. Turn the MAF on its side and use electric contact cleaner or the like.

Im more of a "I gotta see em to clean em kinda guy". Its nice to see if they are really crusty. Doesnt take but a minute to remove and offers me the ability to see if they are even broken.