Who can run an engine #?

[SVOFANATIC]

I need to know if this is a 3.0 or a 3.2?

Here is the # DA 952 BA

It has an auto flywheel on it but other than that it looks like a 3.0 can someone verify for me?

 

[trainguy1989]

Does it have one serpentine belt or two? Does the coil pack flat or at a slant?

 

[rubydist]

D is 49 state 93
A is w/ air conditioning
my Ford manual tells me nothing useful about the "952" part
BA is rev "B" design level, rev "A" calibration level

somewhere on the block there will be a "KOA" or "KOB" stamped, iirc, but I don't recall where.

 

[Racer X]

KOB stampings on the rods and intake cams would indicate a 3.2L.

 

[SVOFANATIC]

one serp and slant coil packs I think I just bought a 3.2 but how does that work if it came out of a 90? Ruby did you say its a 93??????

 

[trainguy1989]

I would say you have a 3.2. Are you sure it came out of a 90? It could be a 3.2 MTX, but then it would be hard to believe because of the auto flywheel.

 

[kevinspann]

Yes, you have a 3.2. That sounds like good news to me. They were wrong though, or gave you the wrong engine.

 

[SVOFANATIC]

F*CK F*CK F*CK I don't have the time to screw with this. HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!! great so now I HAVE to get the crank pulley off. Can I drive this car with the 3.0 computer for a week? will it just make it go lean?

 

[Racer X]

one serp and slant coil packs I think I just bought a 3.2 but how does that work if it came out of a 90? Ruby did you say its a 93??????

Oh. Definitely a 3.2

Swap the accessory and timing drive pulleys and tensioners, and engine mount brackets, and call it a day.

You can run a 3.0L ECU all day long without an issue.

My 92 has a 3.2 swap, with 3.2 injectors and 3.0 cams, and the X2J doesn't care one bit.

 

[SVOFANATIC]

Ok I need tips on how to get a crankshaft pully off without a starter or a impact wrench.

 

[kevinspann]

If you really wanted to, you could hook a starter up to it and do that. Might not be smart though.

You can try with a breaker bar on one of the fly wheel bolts, braced against something, and then use another breaker bar on the crank bolt...


Or, cut the shoulder of the bolt off with a hole saw and use the bolt from your old engine.

 

[SVOFANATIC]

Also does anyone have any pictures of what needs to be ground down on the head?

 

[SVOFANATIC]

Ok Nvm I did some research and found a pic well I can do the cutting and and grinding but can I survive without the drilling and tapping right now?

 

[SHOstopper1992]

Wow...So that means I guess there is no point in me coming down to help you tomorrow

Looks like I wont be getting the Heads and Intake either...

 

[jon93]

Ok Nvm I did some research and found a pic well I can do the cutting and and grinding but can I survive without the drilling and tapping right now?

Don't think so. Just do it and get it over with.

And for the crank bolt. Make it easy on yourself, go to your local harbor freight and buy this.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-electric-impact-wrench-45252.html

 

[Racer X]

Ok Nvm I did some research and found a pic well I can do the cutting and and grinding but can I survive without the drilling and tapping right now?

You can, but you'll need to lift by the front manifold since you won't be able to properly install the lifting eye.

 

[K-Dawg]

If the oil pan is off, you can wedge something (wood) in the crank to keep it from turning.

If the flexplate/flywheel is on, you can wedge something into the teeth to keep it from turning.

You might be able to get by with a strap wrench on the pulley to keep it from turning.

Using a cheater bar will probably be a big help. I've had bolts that won't come off, even using an impact gun. The starter bolts to the transaxle case, so using a starter wouldn't be very easy.

For the 3.2 swaps I've done, I just cut the nub off the head. No need to do all the drilling and tapping unless you really want to.

 

[SVOFANATIC]

My question is why do I need to do anything with the timing belt? Does it rub against the subframe or something? Can I put the MTX tensioner setup on there without puting the oil pump on or jb welding anything cause I saw in one of the write up's that's what a guy did.

 

[Racer X]

My question is why do I need to do anything with the timing belt? Does it rub against the subframe or something? Can I put the MTX tensioner setup on there without puting the oil pump on or jb welding anything cause I saw in one of the write up's that's what a guy did.

You have to use the MTX timing belt tensioning setup because you have to use the MTX accessory pulleys and drive. You have to use the MTX pulleys and drive, because you have to use the MTX engine mount brackets, which also hold the P/S pump (rear) and the A/C compressor and alternator (front).

You don't need to JB Weld the space between the oil pump and the timing covers. That hole remains open on mine, and 5 years later I haven't had an issue.

 

[SVOFANATIC]

Ok Good I was worried about that specific thing. Well I went and bought a electric impact wrench dewalt 345 ft/lbs and the crank bolt still will not come loose. I drilled a hole in the crank shaft hub to put a screw driver in and it bent it at a 90* angle. I did this at the same time as putting stuff through the holes in the flywheel and I still am getting nothing for movement??????