Who can run an engine #?

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Racer X

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I drilled a hole in the crank shaft{snip}
You did what? :squint:

I hope you mean the pulley and not the crank itself.

Go grab a 1" holesaw, and saw through the shoulder of the crank bolt. Once it's off, reuse the one from your 3.0L
 

Racer X

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Exactly, the shoulder is the the flare.

Also, if you haven't tried yet, you can use a combination wrench to keep the flywheel locked in place while you use a breaker bar/ large ratchet on the crank bolt.

Thread one of the bell housing bolts into the right side (front) of the block, through the 12pt hole of the wrench, and thread a bolt into the flywheel towards the front. Turn the crank CCW until the bolt back against the wrench. Flywheel is now locked, and you can crank away at the crank bolt until it gives.
 

Ishodu

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Just put a 6pt socket on it with a 1/2" drive ratchet get a big hammer or chunk of wood and smack the ratchet or breaker bar. Poor mans impact.
 

SVOFANATIC

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Ok I got it off using a screwdriver a pair of vise grips and a breaker bar with a floor jack handle on it. The engine is out and the other one will be going in next weekend I would expect.
 

rubydist

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if you hate the 2-belt accessory drive as much as I do, you would read my thread about how to put the 3.2 into the mtx car with the single belt drive and then you wouldn't have to screw with the crank pulley et.al.
 

pjtoledo

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Just put a 6pt socket on it with a 1/2" drive ratchet get a big hammer or chunk of wood and smack the ratchet or breaker bar. Poor mans impact.



SOMEBODY REMEMBERED!!!!!!!!

:woo-hoo:

but that's not quite the correct way.

ONLY WORKS IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH ROOM, like on an engine stand. very difficult to do under a car.

use a good fitting 3/4 or 19mm boxed end wrench (only .002" difference). place the wrench on the bolt head, extending to the left. use something to pre-tension the wrench, works best if its not just flopping around loose. TIE A SHORT ROPE TO THE WRENCH, so it can't fly more than a foot or so. it helps to have an assistant hold a broom handle or other piece of wood against the head of the wrench so it won't fly off. a 2 foot or so long chunk of 2x4 works great, give the wrench a home run smack a couple of times. get a square hit on the wrench, no angles or glancing blows allowed. they pop the wrench off the bolt. wood works better because 1, its soft and won't break things 2, it has enough mass that force is exerted for the time it takes to put a dent in the wood. 3, won't break as many things if it's is angrily flung across the garage.
wrenches work better than sockets 'n ratchets because the rotational force is applied directly to the bolt head, none of those nasty vector forces that apply if force has to go around a 90 degree bend and thru a junction in the tools.
the striking is so short in duration that you don't worry about tipping the whole engine stand over.

have fun.
I see you already have it out, gave me a chance to 'splain the "poor mans impact" again

Perry
 
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rubydist

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KOB stampings on the rods and intake cams would indicate a 3.2L.

there is not a KOB stamping on the intake cams. all cams are cast from the KOA molds. on the 3.2 intake cams, the KOA is milled off. on the 3.0 cams it is still there.
 

SVOFANATIC

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Is that really all you did to the head? I thought there was a lot more involved with the grinding.
 

rubydist

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because of the idler pulley on the front side of the timing belt on the 3.0, the timing of the belt is one tooth different on the crank pulley. this is vital to get correct in order to have the engine run right and pull with the power it should have.
 

rubydist

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the timing belt will have marks on it for lining it up with the marks on the cam sprockets and it will have 2 lines on it for where it lines up with the mark on the crank sprocket. those 2 lines are one tooth different. the belt routing for the engine with 2 idlers on the timing belt takes one more tooth from the crank sprocket to the cam sprocket than the routing for the engine with only the tensioner idler.
 

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