EZ4U2ENVY,
For a few dollars more than the balljoint costs, you can change the whole lower control arm, which includes the balljoint and bushings.
The lower control arm for the SHO is a heavier duty unit than for the regular Taurus, so specify that it is for a SHO when you buy it. (I know this is true for 89 through 92 SHOs) TRW, Dana, and Mooge make aftermarket parts, and most likely were the OEM suppliers!
REPLACE, DO NOT REUSE, the followings nuts and/or bolts; axel nut, pinch bolt and nut, stabilizer bar nut, inner control arm bolt if it is worn or bent. Clean the threads on any other bolts, and put any and all washers back where they came from! Torque all fasteners to specification. Replace the cotterpin on the tie rod end.
I use a small bottle jack to exert pressure downward on the lower control arm in order to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
I put the top of the jack on the edge of the inner fender, and the bottom on the stabilizer bar near the junction with the lower control arm. I protect the surfaces with a piece of hard wood at each end of the jack. This is much easier than trying to use a prybar.
In tapping the axel free of the hub, leave the nut on the end of the axel to protect the threads. Again, I use a piece of hardwood, rather than hit the axel directly.
If you pull either axel out of the trans, fluid will flow liberally. Be prepared.
If all you want to change on the axel is the outer CV joint, you do not have to pull the axel out of the trans. If you want to know how to do this, get back to me!
Before you pull the axel, check the seal at the trans for signs of leaks. If it is leaking you may as well pull the axel and replace the seal as part of the job.
Yes, the outer CV joint has a circlip that it "pops" over, going on and coming off. If you hold the joint straight, and hold the joint at the edge of the circlip, then rap the edge of the joint with a hammer, it will "pop" off the axel. (Boot already removed)
Again, protect the edge of the joint with wood. It helps to have an extra pair of hands for this job, but it is not 100% necessary. The new boot kit, or axel kit, should have a new circlip, which is highly recommended.
If you are just replacing the boot, clean out all the old grease. I use a spray solvent, like carurator cleaner, or brake cleaner, that will not leave a residue. Buy the cheapest stuff you can, the "blue light special" if you will! Blow dry it with compressed air, or let it air dry.
Put every ounce of grease you get with the kit, unless the kit instructions say otherwise. Put about a third in the joint, and the rest in the new boot. There is a tool for "crimping" the boot straps (clamps) which you should be able to get at Auto Zone, or the like. It is not an expensive item.
While you have things apart, you "may as well" check the bearings. If you are pre 96, the bearings get pressed out, and in, to the steering knuckle. Then the hub gets pressed into the bearing. The hub is pressed out first.
Check the hub for being out of round, BEFORE you have it pressed into the new bearing. You would be amazed at how common a warped hub is!!!
Lastly, if you are replacing the lower control arm (balljoint) because of wear, then treat it like an equasion, that is, what you do to one side, do to the other!!! The CV joint, only if necessary.
SDPATT, your on buddy! Oh, excuse me, I meant pardner (sic). Buddy is a northeastern expression!
I keep this up and I'm going to be the "lone ranger"
rangerj
