Where do you get all those little coolent hoses ?

[JohnW63]

I have a 95 3.2 liter SHO and I think it's gotten to the point where just about all the little hoses around the thermostat need to be changed. <sigh>. I have about 150K on the car and it's getting to the lots of little things are going wrong stage. A year or two ago, I had to replace the heat core lines and found they are no longer made. We had to cut the permanent clamp off and use regular hoses and hose clamps, however, I think we needed to do a better job of flaring the hard lines, because it looks to be leaking. It also is leaking from many of the small preformed hoses around the therm housing, like the one the does a 180 and goes up into the bottom of the intake, and a large short one that goes backwards to something under the wire harness that goes under the intake. None of this is easy to get to and I'll need to pull the intake to get to some of it. My Helms Shop Manual doesn't have a section detailing this or giving any part numbers. BIG thick book and nothing about this area. Frustrating.

What can I still get and which of these have to be made ? Where can I get them ? I looked at fastpartsnetwork.com, but he didn't list hoses in the catalog.

 

[Eric VerValin]

RCM has them, but I would be willing to bet they are leaking because your still using those factory clamps. Get yourself some "real" hose clamps and you'll be fine. It suprises me how tight you have to get some of those clamps to keep them from leaking.

 

[Phoenix]

http://www.rcmautomotive.com/id13.html

You can also check out rockauto.com for these parts.

If you are talking about the metal hose that has a pressed short rubber hose at the end , these are gone. But you can cut where its pressed and slide in a new hose with clamps.

 

[SHOZ123]

I just use cheap 3/8" bulk fuel line hose. Never had a problem.

But then if you bypass the TB/IAC then you only need one hose.

 

[JohnW63]

I already cut the permanent fittings off the heater hoses and used other hosing and hose clamps. but, without a flare at the end of the pipes that remained, I don't think it is sealing well enough. Are the hoses listed in the link above " heater 1 and heater 2" replacements for the hard tubing that rout around the head ?

The other hoses are all around the thermostat housing. I'll need to pull the intake and unplug some of the wiring harness to get a clear shot at some of them. It's those, " I can see it but not GET to it ! " hoses I was hoping to find. Are some of you saying other bulk hose will work, without getting a kink in it ?

 

[SHOZ123]

Yes it will work. Just make it long enough so it does not kink. I replaced all but the radiator hoses and the one U shaped oil cooler hose with bulk hose on my '93.

 

[itwonder]

I already cut the permanent fittings off the heater hoses and used other hosing and hose clamps. but, without a flare at the end of the pipes that remained, I don't think it is sealing well enough. ?

I don't understand what you have. Yikes...you didn't cut the pipes did you? The portion of the hard lines under the permanent crimps is beaded. You should have cut away the silver colored crimp that secures the rubber hose to the hard line, and then pulled off the old hose to reveal the beaded ends. If you cut the pipes instead, yes you have no beads and you messed up two unobtainable hard lines. You can probably take them to a shop that does "tuner" work and have them rebeaded. The replacement rubber hoses are longer than necessary and hopefully will compensate for the lost length of hard line.

The CELO switch hard pipe to block connection requires a tapered rubber hose, Gates 18060, Dayco 87612, or NAPA 10080. Trim to fit and use worm clamps.

Firewall to hard pipe requires one L shaped tapered hose 5/8 x 3/4. Choose Gates 18079, NAPA 10079, NAPA 10071 or Dayco 86099. Trim to fit.

The other firewall to hard pipe hose is an S shaped hose, 5/8 x 5/8. Choose Gates 18774, Dayco 86121, or NAPA 10774. Trim to fit.

 

[JohnW63]

I just cut the outside ****** off the hard pipes. I didn't recall seeing a bead on them. ( My father-in-law had this done while I was at work. ) They are leaking now, down by the engine/thermostat housing. The firewall to hard pipe, looks OK. Of course. Only the hard to get to part leaks.

I haven't heard of a tapered rubber hose. Do I need that on BOTH of the engine ends of these heater hoses ?

 

[Eric VerValin]

ummm your kinda supposed to put the clamp behind the ****** so it won't pop off? They are a pain to get on with them there, but that to me is a good thing... Better clamps, and make em tighter... or see if someone might have another one...

 

[JohnW63]

The flanges I am talking about are the permanent crimps that went over the top of the original hose, which eventually failed. The only way to remove the hose is to cut this part off. It's an outer sleeve that held the hose on the pipe without a hose clamp.

 

[itwonder]

The black hard pipe with crimp and factory rubber hose removed is shown in the center of the photo. The bead is visible. The gold colored ****** in the background is the heater core .

 

[SHOZ123]

He's talking about cutting the aluminum crimps off the hose, not cutting the steel pipe I think.

 

[JohnW63]

Indeed.