Wheel bearings - what to buy?

[rendyx]

I have found my front wheel bearings are on the way out. I know that I can get away with just the bearing if the hub is still okay. However, I am currently not sure if it is or not. If I get the occassional wub-wub and some squeeking if I listen carefully, what's the chance of it being junk? And should I do the same thing to both sides?

 

[twr]

Best bet is to replace the hub too. I know I would hate to do all that work and use a questionable hub to find out it was out of spec.

 

[shojuan]

I'd get the bearing and hub assembly. Actually, I just had my driver's side done and I did the bearing only. The bearing wasn't bad but at 161K miles it could go bad fairly soon. The passenger bearing died a horrible death 18 months ago. Didn't have the funds to replace both hub/bearings back then.

Best price for bearing only is rockauto.com. About $31 for a BCA bearing. But they're more expensive for the bearing/hub kit. Best price for the bearing/hub kit is Autozone. About $61 for the Timken kit IIRC. I'd go with that one.

 

[Blue-By-U]

Is it hard to replace the driver side bearing/hub assembly? I found out that mine is on it's way out also jpshakeh

 

[shojuan]

I took me about an hour on friday to gather up all the tools I needed, since they were scattered in various parts of the garage, and remove the steering knuckle. Then drive the knuckle to the machine shop with the replacement parts and $45 later new bearing pressed in.

 

[Blue-By-U]

So the bearings have to be pressed in even if I purchase the bearing/hub assembly and not just the bearings?

 

[TheNoachSHO]

Yes they need to be pressed in with a 10 ton press. Make sure you find a shop first that will do it for you. And the bearing must be pressed in first then the hub pressed in from there but make sure you have something under the bearing otherwise you'll just pop the bearing.

I know you won't use it much but a press that you need for this is about $200. I would seriously buy one. If you do like shojaun and I did after you do 4 bearings it'll be paid for. That's what i'm doing next time.

 

[Blue-By-U]

Hmmm....not a bad idea. Where did you guys pick yours up and what brand do you suggest? Links?

Thanks!

 

[rendyx]

I think I'm gonna go with the whole kit! thumb I have access to a 10 ton press also.

 

[Blue-By-U]

I just went to Autozone and ordered the Timken hub/bearing assembly. It will be ready in about a week.

One question: is the wheel bearing/hub assembly the same for the SHO as it is for the SLO?

 

[SHOfun 93]

What part numbers at Autozone do I need to ask for to get this ordered? I might as well do all 4 wheels as I think they need it anyway, and the 95 shows all the signs of bad bearings...

 

[autobahnsho]

Just a note that I left on another bearing post:

The studs (where the lugnuts go on) are for some reason much shorter on the Timken kit, than the originals.

The lugnuts only go on about 3/4 of the way, even though they make about 10 full turns.

I don't know what kind of work it will be to exchange the studs from the old ones. (They're still in my trunk... )

 

[rangerj]

Gentlemen,

A few points regarding Gen I front bearings.

1st. By the time you hear a front bearing it is GONE. The looseness from the worn bearing allows the hub to wobble in the bearing. The wobble does two things, 1) it occurs because of a worn dry bearing which generates heat, 2) the heat and the wobble distorts the hub. (Did you see the pictures a week or so ago of a badly scored hub from wobble?

If and when you press a distorted hub into a new bearing you will distort the bearing and it will have a VERY short life.

Moral of the story, replace the hub and bearing as a unit. The short studs that come with some hubs can be replaced with the studs from the old hub. They will need to be pressed out, and then into the new hub.

Item number 2: If you can afford it, replace both sides at the same time, or within a short time of each other. This is not 100% necessary, but is a good practice.

Item #3: The old hub is pressed out of the bearing. The snap ring is removed and then the bearing is pressed out of the steering knuckle.

NOW READ THIS CAREFULLY: The new bearing is pressed into the streering knuckle, and the snap ring is installed (sometimes the old snapring will fit better than the one supplied with the new bearing. (SDPatt ran into this)

NOW PAY CLOSE ATTENTION: The Bearing, in the steering knuckle, is pressed ONTO the hub. DO NOT PUSH THE HUB INTO THE NEW BEARING.

If you are going to change the studs in the hub, do it before you press the bearing ONTO the hub, it easier that way. rangerj

 

[sdpatt]

Here is the link for the front wheel bearing that I just replaced for a total of parts (AutoZone, Timken 520000 Hub & Bearing Assembly - $64.99) and labor (press old bearing and hub out and new in - $30) of about $100. The front axle nut is a 30mm and you will need a 30mm deep socket and 180-210 lb-ft of torque for that fastener.

Jeremy, the rear wheel bearings can be replaced as a pre-pressed hub and bearing assembly that can be purchased at AutoZone (only one stocked per store). You will need a 36mm deep socket and a torque wrench and arm with 250 lb-ft of capacity.

<small>[ March 01, 2004, 09:47 AM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[SonicRiot]

To change studs: a hammer. Hit the studs out from one way, pull the new ones in. The stud will pop when you put on the wheel and torque on the lug nuts with an impact gun.
And yes, it is much easier to do it with the hub assembly out of the knuckle, though I have replaced some of my stripped studs while on the car...just a matter of doing it one at a time and using some finesse.

 

[Speedy_91_SHO]

I recently replaced the bering and hub on the drivers side.(to do passenger this week) It was noted that the studs were in fact shorter. When compared to the old studs, the threaded part of the stud is only like 1mm shorter, if that. There is a section on the old stud that is not threaded is why it looks so much shorter. I checked the lugs after installing it and they did not losten. I am not worried at all. just my.02

 

[autobahnsho]

SonicRiot:
To change studs: a hammer. Hit the studs out from one way, pull the new ones in. The stud will pop when you put on the wheel and torque on the lug nuts with an impact gun.
And yes, it is much easier to do it with the hub assembly out of the knuckle, though I have replaced some of my stripped studs while on the car...just a matter of doing it one at a time and using some finesse.

So I'm assuming if I **** 'em up a little and use a brass hammer it won't mushroom the ends?

How many wacks does it take to get a rusted stud out??

Thanks,

 

[rangerj]

If you are going to drive the studs out with a hammer; 1.) it is better to use a brass hammer (but not necessary) and 2.) PUT THE NUT ON THE STUD YOU WANT TO USE TO PROTECT THE THREADS, and keep the end from "mushrooming".

You could also use a "C" clamp as a press, and a socket for a receiver. Again use the nut to protect the end and the threads.
rangerj