what's wrong- runin like crap

[HoustinoJillian]

this isnt in a maintenance forum becasue i dont know the cause, please dont move it there...

ok heres the story, my sho is running like crap, all of a sudden when i'm driving a long normally (note, while the car is in gear, not when i'm shifting, braking, etc, when its just running, it will start jerking... and i mean really running like crap- it feels like someone's screwing with the clutch and has no idea what they're doing, but im not using the clutch at the time. It feels like theres hydraulics in the car... when i put in the clutch it seems to make it stop... also, had major truoble starting, it won't catch, but the starter turns over ok.. just stalls out.. it starts rough and doesnt idle good, then cuts out, or sometimes wont even start... any idea what's up? i've had 800 dollars put into this problem (motor mounts were sagging, and cracked the ignition control module so these were replaced), but it didnt help the problem at all. any ideas would help, its been in the shop last thursday to monday afternoon and then again today (tuesday) noon to 5 and he says he cant find anything.. help!

 

[wuzzzer]

Well, my 93 atx had similar symptoms when a spark plug wire slipped off the plug due to oil in the plug wells.
Perhaps a gasket/plug/wire change is in order?

 

[gas it]

Sounds like you need a cam sensor. That will make it hard to start and buck while driving.

 

[sdpatt]

I think gas it has it nailed. You should be seeing a CHECK ENGINE light and be able to pull codes 19 (Electronic ignition Cylinder ID sensor/circuit problem) and possibly 18 (Ignition TACH signal erratic). You should find great happiness in a new Wells F134 from AutoZone for $29.99. It is attached to the rear bank exhaust camshaft with two 5.5mm (7/32") bolts. Yes, this topic should have been in the engine and driveline maintenance section.

<small>[ October 08, 2002, 10:56 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[HoustinoJillian]

hey no check engine light when its running, only when it stalls out upon a failed startup, and sorry i dont know as much about the car, it hooks on the where in the ?? is there a way to look at it to see if its broken, and what are these codes?

<small>[ October 08, 2002, 10:58 PM: Message edited by: 89SHOyeeahh ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

Like I said. Check the codes. See how to do it here.

The cylinder identification sensor is the round, 2.5" diameter, black, plastic component that is just left of dead center in the picture. It has an electrical connector on the top and is secured by the two bolts. It is directly above the serpentine belt and to the left of the upper timing belt cover. This view is with the power steering fluid reservoir tie-wrapped to the hood strut.

<small>[ October 08, 2002, 11:11 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[HoustinoJillian]

the tach also doesnt work sometimes, dunno if this is related- it just won't even move then all of a sudden jump up and work for the remainder of the trip

 

[sdpatt]

The tachometer's behavior points to the CID sensor too.

 

[91 SHOplus]

Dude listen to these guys. SDPatt wrote this to a question I had earlier about the Crank Position Sensor. (CPS) I'm re-posting it because of the dropping Tach.

If the CPS fails, it will not only make the tachometer drop to zero, it will cut spark to the plugs until it recovers.

Wouldn't that also give the same bucking if the spark goes out, comes back, goes out...? I'm asking only because I'm trying to learn!

<strong>

The cylinder identification (CID) sensor can cause the tach to read zero and still allow the enging to run, but the CPS is absolutely essential for correct engine function.

Hope that it's the CID. From the picture above, It's much easier to reach, and it's a cheaper part to buy as well.

 

[justakid]

Wow. I've been having the exact same problem (surging at highway speeds, tach dying). I assumed that it was because I had oil in the plug-wells (no 60k yet..:-( I hope this fixes it. SDPATT=the man ;-)

Wes

 

[HoustinoJillian]

hey, i think ive located the correct sensor, but theres a lot more 'stuff' in front of it and there seems to be a lot less room than in our picture- how'd you get all that room? where'd the varous cables and connectors etc go, not to mention the battery? just take then all out and hook them back up when i'm done?

 

[Mr Anonymous]

89SHOyeeahh:
hey, i think ive located the correct sensor, but theres a lot more 'stuff' in front of it and there seems to be a lot less room than in our picture- how'd you get all that room? where'd the varous cables and connectors etc go, not to mention the battery? just take then all out and hook them back up when i'm done?

You have to disconnect the DIS, remove the intake crossover tube and unbolt the power steering reservior to get the room depicted in the photo.

 

[luigisho]

It's been a long time since I did the cam sensor but I don't recall removing the battery. Maybe you need to remove the torque limiter (strut looking thing attached to the motor) and not sure about the intake piece with the DIS module on it. You will need a 1/4" drive set- 3/8" won't fit.

 

[HoustinoJillian]

ok i replaced the cam sensor, grr took forever (dropped socket, dropped wrench, both of which stuck in the engine, but i got all that out, and got the new sensor in, and drove it around the block a few tiems, it seems to be fixed, but i'm keeping my fingers crossed, it seems ti be idling smoother, easier to start, adn the tach is workin, so hopefully thats done it. who knew a 30 dollar part that i replaced myself would work when 800 dolalrs of mechanic's work didnt...

 

[HoustinoJillian]

so now the test- i'll be driving a good 50 miles tonight, goin 0out on a date, better not break down or that'll suck

 

[projectSHO89]

who knew a 30 dollar part that i replaced myself would work when 800 dolalrs of mechanic's work didnt...

We did!!!!!

Steve

 

[HoustinoJillian]

haha yeah thanks everyone that helped, drove around a while and the problem seems to be gone thumbs_u thanks again..

 

[jelloslug]

who knew a 30 dollar part that i replaced myself would work when 800 dolalrs of mechanic's work didnt

You will learn very quickly that even though SHOs can be high maintance cars, doing the work yourself will save ALOT of money. With all the free help here to help solve problems you won't make another $800 mistake weather or not you can work on cars or not.

 

[sdpatt]

Now that sounds like a happy ending (and a happy engine). We are here to help.

 

[ShoTime1991]

could be a crank position sensor?? mine did that when it went bad on my 89