What's the best type of refrigerant to use?

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rangerj

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Gentlemen, and ladies,

I have done dozens of conversions of R-12 to R134a in a variety of makes and model vehicles (including my 90 SHO). I have had no problem getting 35F to 38F degree temperatures out of the center vent of the dash of any of them with R-134a.

A few years a go I had two identicle vehicles on the same weekend that needed new condenser cores. One was recharged with R-12, and the other was converted with R-134a. Both got new filter dryers and the evaporator cores were flushed with the same chemicals. Both compressors were drained, overnight of their oil, and got fresh oil.

After being assembled with new connection gaskets, both systems were vacuumed the same amount of time to remove any moisture (water). One was charged with R-12 ($65 lb.), the other with R-134a ($10 lb). The R-12 vehicle owner made some of the same claims of cooling efficiency made in these threads.

As a test, both cars were started and brought up to full operating temperature and then put on max A/C. An A/C thermometer was placed in the center vent in the dash of each vehicle. They both reached the agreed upon test temperature of 40 degrees F within seconds of each other.

Both R-12 and R-134a have boiling points at temperatures below 150 degrees below zero. A liquid boils by absorbing heat, that is the premise of an A/C system.

If we were to take two equal containers of refrigerant, one R-12 and the other R-134a, and open them at exactly the same time at room temperature, I would defy anyone to tell which evaporated (boiled) first using any, or all, of your five senses (sight, hearing, touch, taste, smell).

The one that evaporated first would be the "most efficient" at absorbing heat, right?

It has been my experience that the reason folks are not happy with an R-134a conversion is because it was not done properly. An old worn down compressor will not work any better with R-12 than it will with R-134a.

People want to make the conversion, but do not want to pay for a new compressor. Then they gripe because the R-134a isn't "efficient".

The difference in efficiency is not because of the refrigerant. The difference in efficiency cannot be percieved by the five human senses. By the time a system gets converted it is already old and worn.

Folks want the A/C to work, but the car is usually old, and they do not want to spend the money to properly repair the system to maximize the efficiency of the refrigerant.

As for the "compatible" additives or substitutes for R-12, they contain a significant amount of methane or butane and are EXPLOSIVE. Most "pro" shops will not touch the stuff.

Anyone interested in how to do a "proper" R-134a conversion, there is a complete disertation on the subject in the threads from last summer. Or just ask, and the forum members, including myself, will offer our opinions and experiences.

Lastly, if you want to know more about the theary and the physics of air conditioning, stop by a university book store and pick up a book on "thermodynamics" (found in the Engineering section). It's cool stuff (get it, "cool"). thumbs_u thumbs_u rangerj
 

projectSHO89

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Adding to rangerj's excellent post, the usage of HC based refigerants (butane, propane, methanol, etc) is prohibited in motor vehicles in the US.

Canadian rules, last I checked, were not as stringent.


Steve

<small>[ March 20, 2003, 10:25 AM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>
 

LaTechSHO

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rangerj is absolutely correct..... most instances of people griping about poor efficiency of cooling systems are simply buying the 30-40 dollar conversion kit and filling up thier a/c units while not fixing the problem that caused the problem at hand...

let us all bear in mind that if you are low on R12...there is a reason...it does not just magically disappear.....

on another note... and i think i have posted this before, Four Seasons has issued into production a new style (self-adjusting)oriface tube that can be used which will increase the cooling effectiveness of your a/c.... they are pricey in comparison to the $2 standard oriface tube, but EVERY shop that i have sold one to has continued to use them in nearly every car that they work on.

Louis
 

93EmeraldMTX

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SHOZ123:
'93 is the year the r134 was first used. There is a refrigerant that can be added to a r12 system and will work. Don't know the name or nomenclature, might be the hotshot mentioned above. I will ask a guy tonight at work who has used it.
I just looked yesterday and could have sworn it said R-12 on the little plastic piece in the engine bay. eek!
 

rangerj

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93EmeraldMTX,

Youe 1993 most likely does have R-12 as its refrigerant. R134a came into use, by Federal mandate, in 1994 model years. Keep in mind that the production of 1994 models started in the summer of 1993.

Some late production 1993s were equiped with R-134a. I cannot remember what the Federal statutory cut off date was for R-12 use in automobiles, but it was sometime in 1993.

Think about it, why would your system have an R-12 label if every 1993 system was R-12? SHOZ123, does you vehicle have an R-134a label?
rangerj
 

93EmeraldMTX

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rangerj:
93EmeraldMTX,

Youe 1993 most likely does have R-12 as its refrigerant. R134a came into use, by Federal mandate, in 1994 model years. Keep in mind that the production of 1994 models started in the summer of 1993.

Some late production 1993s were equiped with R-134a. I cannot remember what the Federal statutory cut off date was for R-12 use in automobiles, but it was sometime in 1993.

Think about it, why would your system have an R-12 label if every 1993 system was R-12? SHOZ123, does you vehicle have an R-134a label?
rangerj
hmm, well mine's date is in march i believe, so it relatively late in teh model year.
 

LaTechSHO

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you would also have a difficult time hooking up a R134A hose to a R12 service port... and vice versa....... :D
 

Mark W

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I just read RangerJ's post about the "difference" between R12 and R134a, and it's nearly the exact same thing my very trusted mechanic here in Illinois told me. Including the part about using Butane, which can create a bomb under your hood (think system leak combined with a bad spark plug wire).

I have a problem with the system in that it doesn't cool at idle, but I think that's the AC clutch. At 70 miles an hour, it will freeze the backs of your hands and make you want to be outside.

His conversion cost me mucho bucks, as he had to replace a bunch of the hoses, but the actual conversion itself was $129 including 2 1/2 pounds of R134a and 3 oz. of Castrol synthetic refrigerant oil. He told me that the difference between the two is nearly immeasurable, and I've never caught him lying to me yet, so I have to think he's right.
 

jasonty

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You know, you don't really need A/C. I'm in TX, and I don't have it... wink Just rip out the whole system, sell the crap on e-bay, and look at the money you made, and the dead weight you took off your SHO. lol, sometimes I kick myself in the ass for doing that....
 

haydenm315

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mike:
r134a isnt bad for the environment though, which is why its used, even though it sucks. fyi
my brother has a 99' subaru legacy with r134a. His drier is a goot bit smaller than what is in my temp. I've heard before that r134 is sh*t compared to r12. I guess that's true since many people are chiming in.
 
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