WEIRD got my car running AND OVERHEATING LIKE CRAZY!!!

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fastsho92

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I have just replaced alot of things on my car. right before i took it apart the car freaked out on me. it was very sluggish, all the lights came on, overheated, and the bat died. ok i knew that the alt was bad so it ordered a new one. during that time i changed the t stat and both coolent sensor. the (one wire) and (two wire) sensors. i thought that it would fix the overheating problem. so i finally got the alt after more then a month. i put it on and then start the car. i let it idle to let the computer to reboot. i take it down my driveway which is a good 1/4 each way. i get it back up and this is about after 10-15mins of running the car overheats. everthing else was ok but it was overheating. i can't figure anything wong but the fan. i have never seen the fan on ever on my car. so i wounder if it is a sensor not turning on the fan or if it is the fan motor its self. first what do you think it is. second i have heard of a way of hot wiring the fan to see if it works. please tell me how?? :confused:
Thanks guys.
 

40BelowSummer

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there is one connector that connects the fans wiring harness. Give the brown wire w/ orange stripe +12V (connect it to the positive battery post via a wire) and obviously ground the black wire. The fan should kick right on.

I believe the ECT sensor effects the fan.
 

fastsho92

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i was talkin to my brother tonight and he thinks i should do a manual fan switch. so it bypasses the relay that kicks it on. i can just start the car and turn on the fan. does this sound like a good idiea???? cuz to me this sounds good. and if the fan turns on when i (hot wire it) i could just use these to wires to run it into a toggle switch inside the car. how does this sound to you guys???
 

oh_SHO

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This could fix the problem but should be a temporary fix. What if you forget or someone else drives the car? Besides I find it easier to address problems as they arise rather then when I finaly have to.

It shouldn't be a hard problem to track down, try jumping the wire like guitar333 said to eliminate the problem being the fan motor. I am sure by then someone will have chimed in on how to test the relay.
 

PAracer

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Have you tried a new radiator cap. I had an overheating condition this summer where the needle would shoot upear the red while under about 45 mph. Once on the highway, it would drop to a safe but still high temp. The bad cap had no visible signs of being bad and was only two years old.
 

fastsho92

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wow a rad. cap. thats odd but still i know the fan isn't working so i do have to adress this. also my car is still being very sluggish. i have tried everthing on this car that i can think off. the last thing i can think of is that i didn't get to the temp sensor or t-stat soon enough. because it was running really rich before i took it apart. so i did all these thing and i think it stoped running rich but still very sluggish. i have heard of the car running rich killing the cats. and letting the stuff in the cats fall to the bottom. so when you rev up to 4000 rmp and let off the gas it creats a vacum. sucks the stuff back up into the motor and distroys it. so i am taking the car to a friends shop tomorrow and i am having him do a compression test and if that comes up good he is gona run the codes. i dought it will. because whenever the car is not under a load it runs pretty good. but whenever you put it on a load it dies. like going up a hill it just dies. no toruqe at all. does this sound right to you guys. i think it doesn't have any compression it a couple cylinders.
 

SHO#7

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Turn on the AC. The fan should come on if the AC is cycled. I would not just put the fan on a switch. That is not the way it was made to work. Do things right, and do them once.

Just my opinion.
 

fastsho92

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sorry i should have put in the above that this was gona be done just so i can see if it will still overheat. i think it will!!! so that is why i wanted to do it that way just for the moment. but ill see! anyone else have suggestions
 

JMoff92

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yes, I had the same problem when I bought my SHO, the fan would never turn on and I would overheat if I idled too long, or traveled at a slow speed. I actually did hook up a toggle switch, it didn't work out good for me, it kept on burning out the fuse I had it hooked to and melting the wires and crap like that.
So I decided I had to fix the problem, first I changed the ECT sensor, still no fan. Then I found a CCRM (ICRM) in the junkyard, (it's the relay that controls your fuel pump, your rad. fan, and a few other things.) It is located above the radiator on the right side of the engine, under the plastic shroud. It is a black rectangular box about 3 inches wide and maybe 6 inches long. There should be a red letter on it, mine was M, you have to make sure the one you replace it with has the same letter on it as your old one, or it won't work. Most of the time, the ones I found had a J on them, you just have to look around.
This very well could be your problem.
 

fastsho92

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wow thats sounds like it could be it. i already chaged the sensor like i said before so i would say that is it. i check it would and see if anyone has it. how much did you get yours for.
 

JMoff92

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I got mine from a friend for 20 bucks. I dont know if they are normally about that price or not though.
 

fastsho92

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ok looks like i need one of these. does anyone have one or know where i can get one. mine also says M on it.
 

95SHOdude

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Heating problem too

I had all of the same problems and I live in Houston where it gets veryyyyyy hot. IRCM burnt out. My fan went out and that put an excessive load on the IRCM and melted one of the traces on the circuit board. I drilled out the rivets, opened it up and soldered a new wire to reconnect the burnt trace. I then put a 16" dia aftermarket fan in place of the old fan. Since it gets very hot here I added another fan as a pusher (14") on the ac coil. On that fan I installed a relay from the batt and the toggle switch was located on my kicker panel. If I got stuck in traffic and she started to heat up, I'd flip the switch. I hooked the relay to an acc power source so it would turn on and off with the key if I forgot about it. The combo worked great. If I had my a/c off and felt the car getting warm I could always turn on the small fan until the main kicked in. Just my idea that worked. Before I put in the relay and switch I had the second fan connected to the AC power source. You can tell which one it is with a voltmeter and the a/c on with the car cool.

Loss of power? IRCM also controls your fuel pump, hows your fuel pressure? When was the last time you changed your fuel filter under the rear of the car? I had a clogged up one once that hurt my top end when the car started starving for fuel. Of course check plugs, wires, IAB etc... for all the normal issues. Not sure if you stated everything else was good. Hope the compression test comes out good. Running rich for a while will also build up lots of carbon so do the decarbon procedure if needed. So many little things can cause loss of power.

Sure do miss my SHO.
 

fastsho92

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yea i no that alot of little things can cause it. i have tried almost everthing. i never really thought about the fuel filter. so i think i am gona do that. but i think i have found the problem. im gona give this one last try. i am gona replace the DIS, MAF, and the IRCM. i think the MAF is the reason for the masive power lose. i hope so atleast. it is the last thinkg i can possible think of. if this doesn't work i think i am gona part out the car. o yea and as for the compression test it was ok. only one cylinder was at 150psi but most were around 165 psi.

i like your idiea with the fan. but i think i am just gona replace the IRCM. i am looking around on here for parts cars with one. i have PMed a few ppl, no one has gotten back yet. but i think the IRCM will fix the fan and i hope the MAF will fix my performace. the only reason i want a DIS is becase i broke the conectors on mine. thanks for all your help....... sorry to here about your SHO
 

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