water/meth inj. help with n02?

[1995SHO9]

hey hey... dont leave me out.. im thining of making the 4500 KM drive there and blow you out of the water with my low end grunt of the eaton and the top end hiss of the (un named turbo) and the ROAR of a 50 shot and water injection.... hey wtf ill throw some nitro in there too see if somthing cools pops out... like a piston

You got more money than I do Mitch Mitchal.....

 

[yamahaSHO]

In one of my tuning classes, we took a turbo B18 filled with VP 104 with A/F adjusted to 11.5:1. I don't remember the boost level. We started with 15 degrees out of the stock tune and added 3 degrees on each successive pull (actually was on a brake dyno, so it was nearly in real time). The Honda made the most TQ/HP with 6 degrees out of the stock timing curve (the difference between -9 and -6 was minimal). It made far less at -3 degrees and made less power with the stock curve (0) than it did with -15 degrees.
The denser the fuel mixture, the less timing you need to make power.
You would also be surprised on how much power you don’t lose by tuning a “little” on the rich side with boost.

I have actually gained power on they dyno with adding extra timing from 'out-of-stock'. Chris and I add timing until we see knock and found a power increase each time, even with heatsoak taking over. The reason I shoot for 12.5 - 13:1 is because I have found to lose power. I consider a 'little on the rich side' to be 12ish. Provided the air is cool enough, 13:1ish is really what you want to aim for.

I have found that the key to making power with boost is finding the right timing. Pat was able to make 445whp on his stock 3L just by running full timing with race gas and lots of water. Not all motors respond the same and not knowing the setup you guys tested, who knows what was going on (boost device efficiency, etc).

 

[Sho Amo]

definitely need dyno time.

 

[sho_sc]

I have actually gained power on they dyno with adding extra timing from 'out-of-stock'. Chris and I add timing until we see knock and found a power increase each time, even with heatsoak taking over. The reason I shoot for 12.5 - 13:1 is because I have found to lose power. I consider a 'little on the rich side' to be 12ish. Provided the air is cool enough, 13:1ish is really what you want to aim for.

I have found that the key to making power with boost is finding the right timing. Pat was able to make 445whp on his stock 3L just by running full timing with race gas and lots of water. Not all motors respond the same and not knowing the setup you guys tested, who knows what was going on (boost device efficiency, etc).

So what this is telling me is that the water injection is slowing down the flame kernel ... hmmm ... interesting ...

and yes on the timing. My race SHO jumps "leaps and bounds" when adding timing, to a point then just "flattens off". I saw 100 wHP increase by adding 5 degrees of timing, but even with that, I'm still subtracting around 1 degree of timing per 2 pounds of boost from the stock curve.

 

[SHO_DOODmorrris]

you wanna make your motor a boat anchor? im sure there are boat forums on the internet.

seriously tho, that would be a highly expensive build.


im not just throwing a bunch of nitrous through my motor just to beat two other boosted sho's. this is going to be highly safe and reliable.

does any of you know how much nitrous someone has run through a stock motor?

hey i wasent poking at you i was just joking around lol. :wave:

 

[yamahaSHO]

So what this is telling me is that the water injection is slowing down the flame kernel ... hmmm ... interesting ...

and yes on the timing. My race SHO jumps "leaps and bounds" when adding timing, to a point then just "flattens off". I saw 100 wHP increase by adding 5 degrees of timing, but even with that, I'm still subtracting around 1 degree of timing per 2 pounds of boost from the stock curve.

Oh, I completely agree that you can't run stock 'full timing', I hope you guys weren't thinking I was suggesting that. Pat only did that on like one run as that's the tune Vadim gave him when he went to the dyno. I think I was running 26 - 28 degrees of total timing advance on my setup.

Yes, the water that makes it into the cylinder will slow combustion. Pat chooses straight water over water/meth because of this. I run whatever is easier at the time (unless it's winter where I'll fill up with some 50/50 or windsheild washer fluid).

 

[Sho Amo]

hey i wasent poking at you i was just joking around lol.

i didnt think you were poking at me i thought you were serious. if you were, that wouldnt be smart.

 

[Brett]

i didnt think you were poking at me i thought you were serious. if you were, that wouldnt be smart.

well he just said wasn't poking you... so?

Its the internet fellas, lets be friends

 

[Sho Amo]

anyone know what the jets are for a 150 or 175? the zex chart only goes to 100 for the dry.