Was not able to take off crank bolt. Help

[carlsho]

I did not gap my cps. Caused me a bunch of problems. My vane bent, so I am asking around for the timing pulley and vane(1 piece). I also need the bottom timing belt cover(both pieces)I ripped mine to pieces. I was not successful in taking the crank bolt off. Tommorrow I will go to the parts store and purchase a stong L bar that attaches to my 17mm socket. I have to know if I purchae the L shaped bar and attach it to my socket and place it on my subframe and turn the starter will it come off. The next problem is that my car is in my driveway at a steep slope. I cannot jack the front end of the car up. Could I take off this bolt if I keep the car in neutral and turn the starter. Also when facing the crank bolt when you are on the passenger side once I turn the starter does the bolt come off clockwise or counterclockwise. Thanks for all the help you guys have been giving me, it is the first time I work on cars and the experience is great. Even though I lost 15 pounds doing all of this so far. Well maybe my car will go faster 15 lbs lighter. Thanks

 

[luigisho]

Keep at it Carl, things get easier with experience. First, can you work in the timing area with the wheel on? I know it's tight in there and the front passenger wheel and the plastic liner have to come out for me to work on it properly. Safety for you and your car would warrant against jacking and working on the car on an incline where the car could fall off jack stands. Bad idea.

To remove the crank bolt get the 19mm socket and a good sized (12"-15") wratchet or breaker bar against the subframe. Unplug the DIS before you bump the starter. Should come right off. Add locktite during crank bolt install.

<small>[ August 18, 2002, 12:54 PM: Message edited by: luigisho ]</small>

 

[naval-avi8or]

You only have to do the starter trick if its a ATX. If its a MTX just need to put it in gear (3rd or 4th MTX'ers help me out), and use that breaker bar your going to purchase. Don't buy one that is to long if you are an ATXer and have to do the starter trick. I bought two and one was to long(25" was to long). 1/2" drive would be best. Also the starter trick can be done with one person but it is helpfull to have a second person watching as ou bump it (make take several attempts to break it free).

You should be able to just jack the one wheel up off the ground and as luigisho mentioned take the front tire and splash sheild out it will save you alot of pain and grief. I don't even think you could do the starter trick without removing the tire and splash sheild.

 

[srfdude]

Carl, as you look from the wheel into the engine, it will turn CW. So place the handle of the breaker bar towards the front of the car, just above the subframe about an inch. This way it can build up a little speed before hitting the SF, and will loosen the bolt. Just a quick bump on the starter should do it.
Mike
Also, YGM

 

[SHOemup]

also, i believe i turns counter-clockwise

 

[sdpatt]

The Forum's search function can be very helpful.

http://www.shoforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=17;t=002667#000000

 

[naval-avi8or]

srfdude:
Carl, as you look from the wheel into the engine, it will turn CW. So place the handle of the breaker bar towards the front of the car, just above the subframe about an inch. This way it can build up a little speed before hitting the SF, and will loosen the bolt. Just a quick bump on the starter should do it.
Mike
Also, YGM

Me and srfdude did my 94ATX together and the way he has indicated is how we loosened mine. The motor will turn CW and the threads of the bolt are standard CCW (RIGHTIE TIGHTIE LEFTIE LOOSIE). You will place the breaker bar around the 3 o'clock position.

 

[SHO Boom]

buy a manual, you need it, you dont seem to listen to any of the suggestions given to you on this board, maybe you will follow written instructions

 

[ollie]

Carl,

First off, it's a 19 MM socket and make sure it's an impact (Black) one. Otherwsir you are going to break it. (Don't ask me how I know this...).

Secondly, make sure you gap the cps to .008 mm and be sure, absolutly sure that the two upper timing pulleys and the lower one are lined up. The upper ones have dots on them that line up with the back cover of the timing cover and the lower one , White (not yellow) dot on the damper pulley, lines up with zero (o) on the lower cover. Put a tire on the front, put it in 5th and turn the wheel clock wise until it is.

The only other hint/suggestion I can make is that the center cover goes on first. The Chiltons says to put the bottom one on first, but it doesn't fit that way. Good Luck!

 

[sdpatt]

I found a new crankshaft timing gear through FordPartsOnline.com for $54.21. And just for the record, the gap on the CPS is supposed to be .03" or .76mm, not .008mm.

Scott

 

[ollie]

I stand corrected! Not enough coffee.....