want to go forged. Where does one start?

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BlackonBlack89

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I wanna start building a nice, forged motor for my 89. I have the original 3.0 out of my 89 with 160k to start upon. I will be going with a 3.2 again so it will have to be bored/honed. Only problem is i do not know any reputable engine related machine shops around here. Guess Im gonna have to find one. I also will probably have the short block assembled and Ill handle the rest.

Anybody who has done it already......anything you would do/add that u didnt do the first time around??? suggestions on anything else related to the matter

I have to get in touch with josh at shonut for some custom pistons. Got to get the bal rolling on that. I want to go with a stock CR. I see no need to lower compression with charge cooling in place and good tuning/engine mointioring. I dont think anyoone gone with that before either

I guess since new main bearing are obsolete I guess sourcing low mileage ones is the next best answer? Also IIRC 3.2 rods are supposeldy stronger. True or false. And is it worth it to have the rods rezized and shotpeened?

Any input on the matter is appriciated .

Rite now I have $2k to spend on the short block alone. This is for the pistons, gaskets, and all the machining work. I dont want to take any shortcuts on it.
 
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rubydist

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I think it will be a lot less expensive to find a decent 3.2 as a starting point compared to boring the 3.0 and buying 3.2 rods, etc.
 

AREA 91

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How mutch boost are you planning to run?
Are you changing your super charger head unit or pulley?
This will help you pick your static compression for the pistons.

For the machine shop work, make sure to get the pistons first.
They need to go to the machine shop for the proper bore and hone fitment.
The 3.2 rods are stronger then the 3.0's. However it's been proven that either are more than capable of making massive power!

I would have the rods resized, along with new wrist pin bushings.

Get the entire rotating assembly balanced!

Enjoy not having traction and welcome to the broken 3rd gear club!:evilgrin:
 

BlackonBlack89

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How mutch boost are you planning to run?
Are you changing your super charger head unit or pulley?
This will help you pick your static compression for the pistons.

For the machine shop work, make sure to get the pistons first.
They need to go to the machine shop for the proper bore and hone fitment.
The 3.2 rods are stronger then the 3.0's. However it's been proven that either are more than capable of making massive power!

I would have the rods resized, along with new wrist pin bushings.

Get the entire rotating assembly balanced!

Enjoy not having traction and welcome to the broken 3rd gear club!:evilgrin:

The s/c will be the t-trim and yes the pulley will be changing. A 3.1 most likely. I honestly think with GOOD tuning and good charge cooling setup detonation can be prevented.
 

Sho Amo

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Finally! It's been almost 2 yrs since we went to the track. I was wondering wether you were driving it or planning to just throw some rod bearings in it.

Ps. I'd do some research on machine shops that have experience with 2jz motors in your area. What you are planning is pretty basic as far as machine work goes, but they could have some yamaha related experience.
 

somedude_001

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I have a new set of 8.5:1 pistons sized for 3.0 rods Wiseco. The skirts are coated. I received them in a ordering mistake. I ordered the same for 3.2 rods for my camaro and I was worried I would bend 3.0 rods because I am looking to make all the HP
 

BlackonBlack89

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As much as I drive it, I could, its just so far and few around here.
Then again I wouldn't mind going on a little trip to get gas. And filling up some 5 gallons containers for back up haha.
 

yamahaSHO

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I wanna start building a nice, forged motor for my 89. I have the original 3.0 out of my 89 with 160k to start upon. I will be going with a 3.2 again so it will have to be bored/honed. Only problem is i do not know any reputable engine related machine shops around here. Guess Im gonna have to find one. I also will probably have the short block assembled and Ill handle the rest.

Anybody who has done it already......anything you would do/add that u didnt do the first time around??? suggestions on anything else related to the matter

I recommend having cam cap studs fitted. It may save you a headache and money.

I have to get in touch with josh at shonut for some custom pistons. Got to get the bal rolling on that. I want to go with a stock CR. I see no need to lower compression with charge cooling in place and good tuning/engine mointioring. I dont think anyoone gone with that before either

Nobody has done good charge cooling and tuning/engine monitoring??? Or are you talking about stock compression? I'm very close at 9.5+:1. If you're looking for big power on stock compression, I'd build the fuel system up for E85.

I guess since new main bearing are obsolete I guess sourcing low mileage ones is the next best answer? Also IIRC 3.2 rods are supposeldy stronger. True or false. And is it worth it to have the rods rezized and shotpeened?

Yes. At a very minimum, resize the rods.
 
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BlackonBlack89

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Nobody has done good charge cooling and tuning/engine monitoring??? Or are you talking about stock compression? I'm very close at 9.5+:1. If you're looking for big power on stock compression, I'd build the fuel system up for E85

yes on the stock C/R. I know u went with higher c/r then most. I think it was a good idea.

I am planning on overkill for MAF and injectors/pump setup. I followed your test trial of the ID's and glad it worked out great. After all they are the best u can buy pretty much.
 

jon93

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As much as I drive it, I could, its just so far and few around here.
Then again I wouldn't mind going on a little trip to get gas. And filling up some 5 gallons containers for back up haha.

Yeah, We have like 3 stations in a hundred miles radius.
 

whiteguy3

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1. Excellent charge cooling.
2. Forged motor. Don't waste the money on custom pistons.
3. Slot-Style MAF.
4. 3" downpipe. Single 3" all the way through.
5. Tuning by Adam at Pops Racing.

Focus on these and you will have a very efficient setup ready for 15-20 psi. All the other minor changes within the motor itself will just take a bigger chunck out of your pocket. Don't waste your time and money.
 

ZooYoost

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1. Excellent charge cooling.
2. Forged motor. Don't waste the money on custom pistons.
3. Slot-Style MAF.
4. 3" downpipe. Single 3" all the way through.
5. Tuning by Adam at Pops Racing.

Focus on these and you will have a very efficient setup ready for 15-20 psi. All the other minor changes within the motor itself will just take a bigger chunck out of your pocket. Don't waste your time and money.


DO you know how to get ahold of adam at pops racing? I called him a couple times and emailed acouple of times with no responses?
 

zblackbeast

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1. Excellent charge cooling.
2. Forged motor. Don't waste the money on custom pistons.
3. Slot-Style MAF.
4. 3" downpipe. Single 3" all the way through.
5. Tuning by Adam at Pops Racing.

Focus on these and you will have a very efficient setup ready for 15-20 psi. All the other minor changes within the motor itself will just take a bigger chunck out of your pocket. Don't waste your time and money.

I was under the impression that these motors, even with proper charge cooling, couldn't handle 15+ psi with stock pistons?

Down pipe? Last I checked justin was s/c.. He's got basiclly a normal stock motor exhaust routing.. no?
 

whiteguy3

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I believe you could get away with a very safe tune but I wouldn't risk it. I didn't put it in the list simply because you said you were going forged. These were the things that I would put the most focus and effort into.

Also, my bad. Forgot he was supercharged for some reason. Yes, still go 3" all the way back.

Also, Jon Text Drew and he will get Adam's number from me. Either you have the wrong number or he's just been really busy.
 
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