Valve adjustment......

[Shoman94]

I took pics....thanks MOBILE-1 Tri-Synthetic. http://www.picturetrail.com/shoman94/741064

Feels great to do it yourself. It definately runs, starts and accelerates better.

<small>[ April 08, 2002, 09:24 PM: Message edited by: Shoman94 ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

Very clean. That is one of, if not the cleanest valvetrains I have seen inside a SHO engine. How many miles had passed since the last valve gapping and what type of gaps did you find? How many were out of the upper limit, by how far adn how many total shims did you replace? I'd appreciate the information.

 

[drivinhard]

Always wierd how the rear head usually seems to have a darker oil stain tone to it huh? I still that's an underhood temp issue for the rear head (front ventalitated better).

Looks good.

 

[Shoman94]

sdpatt:
Very clean. That is one of, if not the cleanest valvetrains I have seen inside a SHO engine. How many miles had passed since the last valve gapping and what type of gaps did you find? How many were out of the upper limit, by how far adn how many total shims did you replace? I'd appreciate the information.

Scott, Thanks for the compliment. To be honest This is my first valve adj. on it. I could never afford to do it and kept putting it off cause I had no major noises. Now I decided to do it myself and I wish I had long ago cuase it was easy, just time consuming(9HRS).
Anyways, 2 exhaust valve were out of spec by .001
4 other valves were dead middle of spec and the rest were on the last measurement within spec. I replaced pretty much all of the shim...luckly I had ordered a bunch of new shims cause most of Cincy SHO's kit was garbage except for the 6 new shims they had in the kit. My thickest shim used was 2650 and all my valve are set at .007-.008 for the intake and .011-.012 for the exhaust.

Yea, I couldn't believe how clean it was...I did not wipe anything off, what you see in the pics is what it looked like when I pulled off the valve covers.
PS...I use Ford's FL400 filter and Mobil-1 TriSynthetic 10w30 every (5,000) miles.

 

[Shoman94]

drivinhard:
Always wierd how the rear head usually seems to have a darker oil stain tone to it huh? I still that's an underhood temp issue for the rear head (front ventalitated better).

Looks good.

Yes you are right but the main difference for mine was due to the florecent light over the rear head. If you look at one of my shot after I have both valve covers back on you'll see the tones difference. But yes It was a bit darker.

 

[N3FOL]

thumbs_u
Congratulations on the job well done. I am scheduled to replace timing belt and serpentine belt in two weeks. After that, I will be doing the valve adjustment and shim replacement (if needed). At the present time, I have 100,500 miles. After looking at your pics, it gave me a lot of confidencce that I can also do this type of work. Thanks for posting your experience.

Question: Did you borrow the video for the 60k maintenance from Cincy SHO?

 

[Shoman94]

N3FOL:
thumbs_u
Congratulations on the job well done. I am scheduled to replace timing belt and serpentine belt in two weeks. After that, I will be doing the valve adjustment and shim replacement (if needed). At the present time, I have 100,500 miles. After looking at your pics, it gave me a lot of confidencce that I can also do this type of work. Thanks for posting your experience.

Question: Did you borrow the video for the 60k maintenance from Cincy SHO?

Thanks.. thumbs_u

Yes I did rent the shims, tools and video from CincySHO. I was unpleased with the condition of the shim kit though....many were unusable. Luckily I had ordered a bunch of new ones from the ford dealer myself. If I were to do it again I would buy the kit with new shims.

 

[RStalveyARFF]

2650? damn, I didn't even know they went that high. Highest I had to go (and didn't have, so I'll do later) was a 2550, and I ran out of 2425's, so I'll need to pop 3 of those in.
Scott, I was using your sheet at first, and then it dawned on me how everything goes, so I was able to do everything by head after that. props on the sheet though thumbs_u

 

[Shoman94]

SHO91MTX:
2650? damn, I didn't even know they went that high. Highest I had to go (and didn't have, so I'll do later) was a 2550, and I ran out of 2425's, so I'll need to pop 3 of those in.
Scott, I was using your sheet at first, and then it dawned on me how everything goes, so I was able to do everything by head after that. props on the sheet though thumbs_u

All mine were in the 2400's and 2500's to begin with right from the factory. And yes they do make shims thicker then that. Ford doesn't sell them anymore but I can get them through my work.
Jason

 

[sdpatt]

I've had to use shims as thick as 2.750mm to get the gaps to the nominal measurement on some cars I have serviced. I believe the largest gap I have measured was .457mm for an exhaust valve that had a .25mm-.35mm allowed range. That one required a jump from a 2.500mm to a 2.675mm shim. I have seen the largest gaps on the number 4 cylinder exhaust valves. My conjecture is that this is the only end of any of the camshafts that does not have a 5th bearing to support it. There may be a margin of metal creep due to the force from the valve springs. The shims greater than 2.675mm now can only be purchased through Yamaha dealers in .05mm increments (i.e. 2.700mm, 2.750mm, 2.800mm....). And they come in packs of 5. Like we should need that many shims in those sizes. I sure hope not.

 

[Shoman94]

sdpatt:
I've had to use shims as thick as 2.750mm to get the gaps to the nominal measurement on some cars I have serviced. I believe the largest gap I have measured was .457mm for an exhaust valve that had a .25mm-.35mm allowed range. That one required a jump from a 2.500mm to a 2.675mm shim. I have seen the largest gaps on the number 4 cylinder exhaust valves. My conjecture is that this is the only end of any of the camshafts that does not have a 5th bearing to support it. There may be a margin of metal creep due to the force from the valve springs. The shims greater than 2.675mm now can only be purchased through Yamaha dealers in .05mm increments (i.e. 2.700mm, 2.750mm, 2.800mm....). And they come in packs of 5. Like we should need that many shims in those sizes. I sure hope not.

Parts unlimited also has them, cheaper then a yamaha dealer and they also sell them in a kit so there is no need for the 5 pack situation.

 

[RStalveyARFF]

do tell!

 

[cf5390]

Shoman94.. Hi there. I checked out your pics just to see what I'm getting myself into this weekend. I have 129k and have no history on this vehichle. My question to you is.. Will the FelPro valve cover gasket kit PN: VS50378R be the only one needed? I have oil in the plug wells but other than that this car runs just fine!!
Also, do you recommend the cincysho.com kit. I saw earlier topics about that kit not having any good shims.
thanks for any info you can provide.

 

[sdpatt]

Shoman94
Parts unlimited also has them, cheaper then a yamaha dealer and they also sell them in a kit so there is no need for the 5 pack situation.[/QB]

How do you contact them? I just checked a web site for www.partsunlimited.com and didn't see anything obvious for Yamaha parts.

Scott

 

[Shoman94]

cf5390:
Shoman94.. Hi there. I checked out your pics just to see what I'm getting myself into this weekend. I have 129k and have no history on this vehichle. My question to you is.. Will the FelPro valve cover gasket kit PN: VS50378R be the only one needed? I have oil in the plug wells but other than that this car runs just fine!!
Also, do you recommend the cincysho.com kit. I saw earlier topics about that kit not having any good shims.
thanks for any info you can provide.

With that many miles I would also change out your intake manifold gasket. Mine was peeling like crazy. Those seperate gaskets started to add up so I instead got the whole intake kit from SHONUT. I got the ATX version, its was less expensive. The only thing you can't use out of the ATX kit is the head gasket.
Cincy SHo was good about getting me the kit but the one I recieved wasn't too good. Every used shim in the was worse than any of the ones I took out of my car. In my opinion, I would get a new kit. That way you have some for next time.

 

[Shoman94]

sdpatt:

Shoman94
Parts unlimited also has them, cheaper then a yamaha dealer and they also sell them in a kit so there is no need for the 5 pack situation.

How do you contact them? I just checked a web site for www.partsunlimited.com and didn't see anything obvious for Yamaha parts.

Scott[/QB]

The website is actually www.parts-unlimited.com
Unfortunatley you can't get them direct, only resellers. Your best bet would be from me as my work is a dealer.
A pack of 5 shims cost me 11.90
They sell a kit which includes 2 of each:2.300, 2.400, 2.500, 2.550, 2.600, 2.700, 2.800, 2.900, 3.000, 3.100. This kit with a box cost me 66.10.

By the way Scott, did I send you the right o-rings for your injecters? How did it work out?

 

[sdpatt]

Shoman94
By the way Scott, did I send you the right o-rings for your injecters? How did it work out?[/QB]

Yes, those were the ones I needed. I haven't replaced them yet because of some medical stuff I needed to take care of first, but I'm back in business.

Thanks,
Scott

 

[Blue95ATX]

I have 107,000 miles and I need to replace my gaskets cause I have oil in the plug wells so I will do the valvetrain at the same time. Im not sure if I want to mess with the valvetrain myself. Should I be worried? How long will it take, one weekend? Where is the best place to get what I need, What do I need, Should I have someone to help me? Thank You, Anybody is welcome to answer with their opinions thumbs_u .

 

[Shoman94]

Blue95ATX:
I have 107,000 miles and I need to replace my gaskets cause I have oil in the plug wells so I will do the valvetrain at the same time. Im not sure if I want to mess with the valvetrain myself. Should I be worried? How long will it take, one weekend? Where is the best place to get what I need, What do I need, Should I have someone to help me? Thank You, Anybody is welcome to answer with their opinions thumbs_u .

If your mechanically inclined, have tools and have patients, you can do it. Get your self a kit that has shims and tools and a video to do the job. The video kinda gives you a good heads up of what your running into, then use SDPATT's procedure for all the torque specs and such. Plus his procedure is very acurate it would be a good reference to follow on. You can get the kit from CincySHO, SHONutPerformance, or SPMotorsports. It took me 9hrs to do the job. If I used air tools I could have done it faster but being my first time I didn't want to chance anything. In my opinion you can get the cheapy gasketset from AutoZone and then add intake gaskets since more then likely yours wil be bad, or for about the same money you can get the ATX Upper Gasket set from www.shonutperformance.com and get every Ford gasket made for the heads on up. You can get your plugs and wires from www.fordpartsnetwork.com they are the absolute cheapest on those items.

I hope this helps, if you have any other questions or concerns don't hesitate to ask around here.

Jason

 

[FAST4DR]

The website is actually www.parts-unlimited.com
Unfortunatley you can't get them direct, only resellers. Your best bet would be from me as my work is a dealer.
A pack of 5 shims cost me 11.90
They sell a kit which includes 2 of each:2.300, 2.400, 2.500, 2.550, 2.600, 2.700, 2.800, 2.900, 3.000, 3.100. This kit with a box cost me 66.10.

By the way Scott, did I send you the right o-rings for your injecters? How did it work out?[/QB]

Could you be so kind to post the part # or #'s that you are ordering from parts-unlimited for the valve shims? My friend owns a motorcylce shop and can get me the shims. Thanks, William

<small>[ April 12, 2002, 04:30 AM: Message edited by: FAST4DR ]</small>