Using stock front springs in the rear - possible?

[DJ SHO]

Can I do this? I have a set of front stock springs w/ like 40,000 miles on them and want to know if I can use them in the rear. I realize the spring rate would be stiffer, but I don't care. I just need to get the rear end back up. Wanted to ask here first before coughin up the extra cash for new ones. I can't afford the Tokico/Eibach setup yet.

T.I.A.

<small>[ May 15, 2003, 11:58 PM: Message edited by: DJ SHO ]</small>

 

[Shuey]

its too wide and fat for the rears, IMO.

 

[DJ SHO]

SO they won't fit?

<small>[ May 16, 2003, 02:15 AM: Message edited by: DJ SHO ]</small>

 

[Foxwulfe]

The spring is not tapered in the rear; the upper mount will be too small if you try to fit in a front spring (among other differences).

 

[JaySHOguy]

Buy a set of Moog Coil rear springs. I was able to pick mine up at a local Napa Store for under $75.

 

[SHOZ123]

You can raise the strut in the clamp.

 

[shocrates]

SHOZ123:
You can raise the strut in the clamp.

What has to be done to raise the strut?

 

[Emerald94]

Wouldn't the spring rate be too high anyways (since the front springs have to carry over 60% of the weight of the car)?

 

[Electric Frost]

SHOZ123:
You can raise the strut in the clamp.

I am very interested in this. I have brand new Moog cargo coils and Midas gold rear sruts along with new mounts and sway bar links on both my 92's, however it seems as though my rear ride height is still lower than other SHOs I have seen. I took a look at the assmbly, and it looks as if there is a little "platform" on the strut housing that comes down and rests on the other assembly. If you could figure out a way to make a spacer, you could clamp the strut closer to the bottom of the strut, thus giving more ride height. Either that or my theory on the platform resting on something is wrong and the strut can be clampled wherever the **** you want??? thumbup
Anybody got the lowbdown? shrug

 

[SHOck]

The "platform" theory is incorrect. The strut is held in place in the knuckle by the compression against the strut housing. That's why the knuckle to strut connection requires 50-65 Lb-Ft compression fitting rather than a 20-25 Lb-Ft straight bolt like the top nut.

However, this is not the solution to bad springs becase the rear suspension is going to remain slumped towards the bottom of travel, and bottoming will remain. The only proper solution is to replace the springs. Leave the strut knuckle mod for lowering tricks after good springs are put in.

I hate when I post before the thought train has left the station...

If you could get the front springs into the rear, you won't like the rears being as stiff as the front. Even with a set of Konis, you'd get rear wheel bounce due to the springs being much stiffer than the struts. If you had a set of struts that works with the springs, the front would float considerably compared to the rear, and handling would be greatly reduced due to the extreme difference in characteristic between the two ends of the car. To say the least, this operation is not suggestable.

If you are near Louisville and want to pick up a stock pair of good springs, you can have mine for $40, removed at 60k with no sign of collapse, with little rust present, only where the coils rubbed together. You might try the SLO's at the local yards as well. Your 94 probably had the SLO springs as mine did. Cargo coils are a good option as well if you don't want performance springs.

<small>[ May 18, 2003, 05:28 AM: Message edited by: SHOck ]</small>

 

[Electric Frost]

SHOck, I'm not quite sure if you were answering my question or not. I have brand NEW Moog cargo coils in the rear on both my cars, and my rear ride height still seems lower then alot of other SHOs I have seen. I want to know if I can take it back and ask the mechanic if he can raise the strut up in the pinch bolt assembly?

 

[TimboSHO]

Someone actually tried installing front springs in the rear of my car, and they didn't fit. I got progressive rate springs for about $60 apiece, and $220 installed.

<small>[ May 22, 2003, 01:04 AM: Message edited by: SHOmama ]</small>

 

[SHOck]

Electric-

Ah, new ones that seem to sag. Are you sure it's not the illusion created because the rear fender lip gap is less than the front?

Most mechanics WON'T modify the struts like this. I would look into the situation before doing this if there really is a ride height problem. Compensating for a problem will never replace fixing a problem.

 

[MeShoHorny]

SHOck:


If you are near Louisville and want to pick up a stock pair of good springs, you can have mine for $40, removed at 60k with no sign of collapse, with little rust present, only where the coils rubbed together.

Since you are so well versed in the Rules and TOS of the forum you know that classifieds are payed. Please do not post a for sale again.

Thank you,

 

[DHMag]

someone on the forum posted a pic of their Gen1 with Moog Cargo Coils in the rear with a tape measire showing like 24" from ground to height of fender lip. mine seem like it sagged too, til i measured it. mine was 24 1/2" from the ground. this 1/2" difference is due to the fact that the other person has the 15" weaves on the car. i have 16" slicers. i went ahead and took the strut pinch bolt out, moved the strut up in the knuckle, clearing the locator tab, reinstalled the bolt, brought the locater tab down so it rests on the bolt, and torqued the bolt. it raised the rear about 3/4". after i did it, i kept an eye on it to make sure nothing went wrong, its been 3 months now and its still in good shape.

 

[DJ SHO]

Well I went with new springs and struts. I'm all good now. What's with all this talk about raising the strut? You shouldn't move the strut any higher than it's supposed to be. There's a hole for the pinch bolt to go thru the strut, so you know that you've lined it up correctly.

And besides, its ok for the rear to look lower than the front, because it's supposed to be. Fender opening to the center of the wheel is 16.10" for the front, 15.10" for the rear.

 

[SHOck]

"Since you are so well versed in the Rules and TOS of the forum you know that classifieds are payed. Please do not post a for sale again."

Uh, I wasn't posting a sale. Someone was having a problem, and I offered an option for this ONE individual only. I did not post an open offer to sell the springs. That is well on the other side of "borderline" compared to your bandwidth-hogging Avatar, and it does not offend anyone's taste or morality. Do you see for sale messages for the Yamaha emblems I make? No, I didn't think so. I haven't even mentioned them or directed anyone to my site.

Oranges and apples. Please try comparing like items in the future. Or, try adhering to or enforcing your own TOS. Hmm, I'm quickly remmebering why it is I rarely post here.

<small>[ May 23, 2003, 06:11 AM: Message edited by: SHOck ]</small>

 

[DHMag]

DJ SHO:

And besides, its ok for the rear to look lower than the front, because it's supposed to be. Fender opening to the center of the wheel is 16.10" for the front, 15.10" for the rear.

is that measurement for a Gen1 or a Gen2 ? rear fenderwell is different between the 2.

 

[DJ SHO]

DHMag:

DJ SHO:

And besides, its ok for the rear to look lower than the front, because it's supposed to be. Fender opening to the center of the wheel is 16.10" for the front, 15.10" for the rear.

is that measurement for a Gen1 or a Gen2 ? rear fenderwell is different between the 2.

That's for a GEN II I think. And it makes sense, because I put the new springs and struts in, and the car definatly looks like the wheel gap is about an inch lower in the rear compared to the front.

<small>[ May 24, 2003, 02:00 AM: Message edited by: DJ SHO ]</small>